flush with camber kit?
#1
flush with camber kit?
my rear wheels are cambered in a bit. will a camber kit push the top of the wheel out and fill some of the gap? I want to be flush. I have 18x10.5's all around with 265/40. front looks great but rear looks like if the top were even with the bottom it would be flush. offset is +20
#4
also I have not gotten an alignment since the drop...should I get one and see how close they can get it to factory and let it be or can they not adjust anything at all?
#5
See this thread for info on spacers:
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...er-thread.html
Info on camber kits:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html
#6
+20 is fine on an 18x10.5, you will need to start modifying your fenders if you start to add spacers
See this thread for info on spacers:
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...er-thread.html
Info on camber kits:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html
See this thread for info on spacers:
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...er-thread.html
Info on camber kits:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html
would a fender roll and small spacer do the trick?
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#8
What is your rear camber set to now, unlike what is mentioned above YES you can install a camber kit, remove some camber and get your wheel flush.
If your at -2 rear camber now and bring it to -1.5 that would move the top of the tire out roughtly 10mm.
Factory alignment specs out back for camber are -1.1 to -2.1 , a 1 degree difference is actually a lot of movement. Almost 20mm if measuring from the top of the tire.
If your at -2 rear camber now and bring it to -1.5 that would move the top of the tire out roughtly 10mm.
Factory alignment specs out back for camber are -1.1 to -2.1 , a 1 degree difference is actually a lot of movement. Almost 20mm if measuring from the top of the tire.
#9
What is your rear camber set to now, unlike what is mentioned above YES you can install a camber kit, remove some camber and get your wheel flush.
If your at -2 rear camber now and bring it to -1.5 that would move the top of the tire out roughtly 10mm.
Factory alignment specs out back for camber are -1.1 to -2.1 , a 1 degree difference is actually a lot of movement. Almost 20mm if measuring from the top of the tire.
If your at -2 rear camber now and bring it to -1.5 that would move the top of the tire out roughtly 10mm.
Factory alignment specs out back for camber are -1.1 to -2.1 , a 1 degree difference is actually a lot of movement. Almost 20mm if measuring from the top of the tire.
#10
Factory arms are adjustable, but do not have much range, that may get you back into the high side of OEM specs. The adjustment is off the lower arm, pulling the lower in and forcing the upper out.
#11
That's a bit of a broad statement. there's a lot of variables, but I'd suggest measuring to see how much room you need to take up to be "flush." Once you have that number, you can decide which route to go.
#12
I am 10mm away from the top from being flush. the bottoms are perfect if my wheels weren't cambered a little I think I would perfect. Should I just get an alignment and see where I am at? I just don't want to get 2 alignments .
#13
10mm is a lot of room to make up with camber. Unless you're running a lot of neg. camber, which isn't even possible on stock arms, you'll need spacers to be completely flush. I'd just do spacers. We've got H&Rs on sale, in slip-on and bolt-on style.
Was that 10mm number measured at the lip of the wheel or the sidewall of the tire? You're going to gain negative camber as the suspension compresses so you might be able to do a 10mm spacer and still clear the fenders with just a roll. It's really hard to say without actually getting my hands on the car. A safe bet would be 5mm spacer + camber kit, and then add a 2mm if you want to come out further. If you've got a Firestone tire center in your area, see if they offer lifetime alignments and if they'll do lowered cars. It's like $140 but it's a life time of alignments! You could also get the stuff to do your own alignment.
Like I said, we've got H&R spacers on sale right now and we also carry several camber kits so if you need anything, let me know.
Was that 10mm number measured at the lip of the wheel or the sidewall of the tire? You're going to gain negative camber as the suspension compresses so you might be able to do a 10mm spacer and still clear the fenders with just a roll. It's really hard to say without actually getting my hands on the car. A safe bet would be 5mm spacer + camber kit, and then add a 2mm if you want to come out further. If you've got a Firestone tire center in your area, see if they offer lifetime alignments and if they'll do lowered cars. It's like $140 but it's a life time of alignments! You could also get the stuff to do your own alignment.
Like I said, we've got H&R spacers on sale right now and we also carry several camber kits so if you need anything, let me know.
Last edited by Vivid Racing; 11-16-2011 at 11:37 AM.
#14
10mm will fit and my camber is not that bad I just did not know if a camber kit would push the top of the wheel out equal to the bottom.. or if I will need a spacer to push the entire wheel out and a camber kit to pull the bottom of the wheel back in..
#16
well I threw a 30mm on there and it was wayyy to much. I measured and 10mm is ideal. hold on give me a minute for the pics..
#17
pics..
excuse the tires, they came in yesterday..btw what is good to shine them up?
and fender gap is 1/2 inch at the top.
as you can see in the 2nd pic the negative camber is not bad but I want the top of the wheel to be out as much as the bottom of the wheel... fender roll,camber kit and spacers?
excuse the tires, they came in yesterday..btw what is good to shine them up?
and fender gap is 1/2 inch at the top.
as you can see in the 2nd pic the negative camber is not bad but I want the top of the wheel to be out as much as the bottom of the wheel... fender roll,camber kit and spacers?
Last edited by hunterclowdus; 11-16-2011 at 02:41 PM.
#19
Excuse me if i'm not getting my words out correctly.
I might be confusing myself, but...
Let me get this straight, you want the top of the wheel to be out more?
Less of an angle? Add more camber.
It'll bring the bottom closer to the car and the top closer toward the fender.
The spacer will just pull the wheel out more.
The negative camber will stay, but the top of the wheel will be closer to the fender.
The closer you want to get to the fender, the more likely you'll need to roll the rear fenders.
I might be confusing myself, but...
Let me get this straight, you want the top of the wheel to be out more?
Less of an angle? Add more camber.
It'll bring the bottom closer to the car and the top closer toward the fender.
The spacer will just pull the wheel out more.
The negative camber will stay, but the top of the wheel will be closer to the fender.
The closer you want to get to the fender, the more likely you'll need to roll the rear fenders.