Installing Urethane Rack and Pinion Bushing Question
I'll be tackling the front suspension this weekend replacing the LCA (Lower Control Arm) bushings, Compression Arm Bushings, and the Rack and Pinion Bushings.
I'll be installing Energy Suspension units but my main question is:
When replacing the rack and pinion bushings, can it be done without taking the hydraulic lines or tie rod ends loose? In other words use a ball joint C Clamp to remove the thru-bolt bushings while the rack hangs down?
I know this will involve removing it from the steering column shaft but i'd prefer to not take the hydraulic lines loose.
I'll be installing Energy Suspension units but my main question is:
When replacing the rack and pinion bushings, can it be done without taking the hydraulic lines or tie rod ends loose? In other words use a ball joint C Clamp to remove the thru-bolt bushings while the rack hangs down?
I know this will involve removing it from the steering column shaft but i'd prefer to not take the hydraulic lines loose.
Not many people have done it yet, i still need to do mine. Just drain the fluid and pull the lines. It is pretty much a self bleeding system, and only takes less than 1 quart of ATF. Probably needs to be changed anyhow, even with a bigger cooler the fluid still get cooked.
I did this today, along with Tein inner and outer tie rods. The install was pretty easy since the motor is not in the car. I still had to remove the hydraulic lines (which wasn't bad at all since I've long since drained my power steering fluid system). After removing the rack my buddy and I were able to literally hammer out the old steering rack bushings with a socket and a hammer.




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Got all my front bushings and rack bushings installed yesterday.
Pulled the rack and used the shop press. Rack bushings came out very easy.
One gripe about oem and ES bushings. The ID of the metal sleeve is about an 1/8 larger then the bolt going thru. Allows for a lot of slop before torquing down. I did my best but ended up skewing my alignment buy about 10 degrees at the steering wheel. May turn some SS sleeves with a slip fit to remove this issue.
Pulled the rack and used the shop press. Rack bushings came out very easy.
One gripe about oem and ES bushings. The ID of the metal sleeve is about an 1/8 larger then the bolt going thru. Allows for a lot of slop before torquing down. I did my best but ended up skewing my alignment buy about 10 degrees at the steering wheel. May turn some SS sleeves with a slip fit to remove this issue.
Well I replaced the entire front suspension's bushing at the same time so i can't pin point the steering rack bushings for the improvement.
I can definitely say the front end feels alot tighter with all the ES bushings + SPL compression arm bushings.
I can definitely say the front end feels alot tighter with all the ES bushings + SPL compression arm bushings.
well looks like its time for me to do the same thing, did some joyriding the other night and on high speed curves doing 50+ mph as I steer into the turn.. the wheels follow through but as I try to steer more I can feel like nothing happens and then it steers again. Assuming bushings on the rack. ES time, unless I can find out if the whiteline kits Sleeve is better fit, I dont need more issues with alignment etc.
well looks like its time for me to do the same thing, did some joyriding the other night and on high speed curves doing 50+ mph as I steer into the turn.. the wheels follow through but as I try to steer more I can feel like nothing happens and then it steers again. Assuming bushings on the rack. ES time, unless I can find out if the whiteline kits Sleeve is better fit, I dont need more issues with alignment etc.
Sorry to bring this up again,
I also purchased the prothane rack bushings and noticed that their inner diameter of the sleeve is also slightly larger than OEM. Will this cause any issues with slip under load Or is the slop/play removed when torqued down?
How has the ES and other aftermarket bushings been holding up?
I also purchased the prothane rack bushings and noticed that their inner diameter of the sleeve is also slightly larger than OEM. Will this cause any issues with slip under load Or is the slop/play removed when torqued down?
How has the ES and other aftermarket bushings been holding up?
Sorry to bring this up again,
I also purchased the prothane rack bushings and noticed that their inner diameter of the sleeve is also slightly larger than OEM. Will this cause any issues with slip under load Or is the slop/play removed when torqued down?
How has the ES and other aftermarket bushings been holding up?
I also purchased the prothane rack bushings and noticed that their inner diameter of the sleeve is also slightly larger than OEM. Will this cause any issues with slip under load Or is the slop/play removed when torqued down?
How has the ES and other aftermarket bushings been holding up?
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