OEM vs True Coilovers for the Track
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OEM vs True Coilovers for the Track
Hey guys,
I need some help. I am still learning and a tad stumped. Originally, I was thinking true coilovers were the best options for a track car. After a few days of research. Read multiple threads such as the True Coilovers or Not thread. Now I am not so confident. I was hoping you could help me hammer out the details, and what would ultimately work for me.
I mainly use my car for the track, but I travel a lot for work, so I drive it to the airport and back, and occasional drive on the streets.
Track events: I mostly drift at the moment (already got a 1.5 way KAAZ LSD). Apart of a local drift group in the DC area. Do FATT and AutoX during the summer and might do some road racing in the future. The car may be completely turned into a track car, a 100% in a year. (may do a engine swap)
Features I want:
I want to improve the stock suspension. Something durable and more stable, lowered as well. Lowered how much, I am not certain.
What other items do I need or you suggest in addition to the coilovers? I want to get this correct the first time. Aftermarket front and rear camber/toe?
Do you need to know anything else?
Thank you in advance,
Hyde
I need some help. I am still learning and a tad stumped. Originally, I was thinking true coilovers were the best options for a track car. After a few days of research. Read multiple threads such as the True Coilovers or Not thread. Now I am not so confident. I was hoping you could help me hammer out the details, and what would ultimately work for me.
I mainly use my car for the track, but I travel a lot for work, so I drive it to the airport and back, and occasional drive on the streets.
Track events: I mostly drift at the moment (already got a 1.5 way KAAZ LSD). Apart of a local drift group in the DC area. Do FATT and AutoX during the summer and might do some road racing in the future. The car may be completely turned into a track car, a 100% in a year. (may do a engine swap)
Features I want:
I want to improve the stock suspension. Something durable and more stable, lowered as well. Lowered how much, I am not certain.
What other items do I need or you suggest in addition to the coilovers? I want to get this correct the first time. Aftermarket front and rear camber/toe?
Do you need to know anything else?
Thank you in advance,
Hyde
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SPL parts catalog , just buy everything they offer and your good.
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Agreed.
OP the major advantage to a true coil is the ability to lock in your toe settings by using a toe rod and eccentric lockouts in place of the spring bucket and avoid having to dremel your subframe to accept aftermarket toe bolts. If you buy the SPL midlinks you are locking in the settings in the same way only with an OEM type coil setup, that's the route I went.
Read the sticky suspension 101. I re-read it from time to time. Everything you need to know is there. Maybe even take notes.
Oh and inb4thelock!
OP the major advantage to a true coil is the ability to lock in your toe settings by using a toe rod and eccentric lockouts in place of the spring bucket and avoid having to dremel your subframe to accept aftermarket toe bolts. If you buy the SPL midlinks you are locking in the settings in the same way only with an OEM type coil setup, that's the route I went.
Read the sticky suspension 101. I re-read it from time to time. Everything you need to know is there. Maybe even take notes.
Oh and inb4thelock!
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You should also think about upgrading the bushings that the rear coilovers mount to if you go with a true coil setup because they will see much more load than they were ever designed to.
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Agreed.
OP the major advantage to a true coil is the ability to lock in your toe settings by using a toe rod and eccentric lockouts in place of the spring bucket and avoid having to dremel your subframe to accept aftermarket toe bolts. If you buy the SPL midlinks you are locking in the settings in the same way only with an OEM type coil setup, that's the route I went.
Read the sticky suspension 101. I re-read it from time to time. Everything you need to know is there. Maybe even take notes.
Oh and inb4thelock!
OP the major advantage to a true coil is the ability to lock in your toe settings by using a toe rod and eccentric lockouts in place of the spring bucket and avoid having to dremel your subframe to accept aftermarket toe bolts. If you buy the SPL midlinks you are locking in the settings in the same way only with an OEM type coil setup, that's the route I went.
Read the sticky suspension 101. I re-read it from time to time. Everything you need to know is there. Maybe even take notes.
Oh and inb4thelock!
I'll look at the catalog as well.
Overall, my concern with the true coilovers is the potentials for damage to the upper mounting point since it is just a plain piece of frame metal. This is what i read from the thread I mentioned earlier.
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