Need Rotors - Nismo 350Z Track Car
04-18-2012, 09:16 PM
#21
4 photos of the DBA 4000's that failed after 3 track days - they were brand new, out of the box on track day 1. They lasted about a month. 1st day at Watkins Glen, day 2-3 at NHMS where we were running the south oval.
The 5th picture, with the quarter for scale, was the catastrophic failure of the OEMs ($550 each to replace from Nissan) at Watkins Glen. I was lucky it didn't chunk out and take out the caliper. Got my moneys worth out of them. They were well worn below minimum thickness and badly heat checked. I's say about 40 track days on them, maybe half of which I was running in the intermediate run group. Now I'm a solid advanced drive with higher cornering speed and more aggressive braking.
The 5th picture, with the quarter for scale, was the catastrophic failure of the OEMs ($550 each to replace from Nissan) at Watkins Glen. I was lucky it didn't chunk out and take out the caliper. Got my moneys worth out of them. They were well worn below minimum thickness and badly heat checked. I's say about 40 track days on them, maybe half of which I was running in the intermediate run group. Now I'm a solid advanced drive with higher cornering speed and more aggressive braking.
Last edited by ronn1; 04-18-2012 at 09:17 PM.
04-20-2012, 06:37 AM
#23
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No, not running R-Comps yet. Still on OEM Potenza RE050A on the rear and just switched to Michelin Pilot Super Sport XL on the front. I only got 9 track days out of my last set of Potenza's on the front so I decided to try the Pilots with a little better wear resistance. I’m starting to think about adding camber.
I do ok on the street radials, but I can see how the guys on R’s are a little quicker in the corners. Switching to R’s means an extra set of wheels and a trailer to get them to the track.
When I do switch to R’s I think that’s going to mean a little more brake heat
I do ok on the street radials, but I can see how the guys on R’s are a little quicker in the corners. Switching to R’s means an extra set of wheels and a trailer to get them to the track.
When I do switch to R’s I think that’s going to mean a little more brake heat
04-20-2012, 07:10 AM
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04-20-2012, 08:10 AM
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OEM Brakes on my 2008 Nismo 350Z
Calipers: Brembo, four-piston front and two-piston rear.
Rotors: 12.8-inch (330 mm) front and 12.7-inch (320 mm) rear.
Size: I would think going to a 13" or 14" rotor from the current 12.8" isn't going to make that much of an improvement. Any thoughts on that?
Calipers: Brembo, four-piston front and two-piston rear.
Rotors: 12.8-inch (330 mm) front and 12.7-inch (320 mm) rear.
Size: I would think going to a 13" or 14" rotor from the current 12.8" isn't going to make that much of an improvement. Any thoughts on that?
04-20-2012, 08:21 AM
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Holes/Slots or Not: Discontinuities, such as holes and slots are areas that concentrate stress that can initiate crack formation and propagation. I think the photos of cracks at my slotted DBAs and Ronn1 cross-drilled rotors at strong evidence of this. The only reason for holes and slots, that I’m aware of, is to improve braking friction by reducing gas pressures between the rotor and pad. I improved friction by going to a more aggressive pad, which most likely comes with added heat.
04-20-2012, 08:23 AM
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2 Piece Rotor vs 1 Piece: 2 pieces prevent heat transfer to the hub. Good that it prevents overheating of the wheel bearings. Bad that the rotor heat is cut off from another heat sink source, leading to higher rotor temperatures. The benefit of 2 piece might be that can get the ducted cooling air into the center core of the rotor ring and both sides. With the 1 piece, I can only get cooling air on the inner side of the rotor.
04-20-2012, 04:01 PM
#28
BTW I just got back from our time attack event at Yas Marina and the Stoptechs did pretty good.
Last edited by 350Zdj; 04-20-2012 at 04:06 PM.
04-20-2012, 04:40 PM
#29
OEM Brakes on my 2008 Nismo 350Z
Calipers: Brembo, four-piston front and two-piston rear.
Rotors: 12.8-inch (330 mm) front and 12.7-inch (320 mm) rear.
Size: I would think going to a 13" or 14" rotor from the current 12.8" isn't going to make that much of an improvement. Any thoughts on that?
Calipers: Brembo, four-piston front and two-piston rear.
Rotors: 12.8-inch (330 mm) front and 12.7-inch (320 mm) rear.
Size: I would think going to a 13" or 14" rotor from the current 12.8" isn't going to make that much of an improvement. Any thoughts on that?
04-24-2012, 05:04 PM
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I have multiple Road Atlanta track days on my 07 Red Nismo, though I have not seen any disc issues like this! I have only encountered excessive heat, but that has been assisted with ATE Super blue fluid and ducts, neither of which would help stop those kinds of cracks so I will be very interested in what you end up using that is working for you. *subscribed*
08-08-2012, 10:42 AM
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Brake problem solved based on 2 track days at NHMS running the south oval and 3 days at Mt Tremblant. Real test will be Watkins Glen Aug 22-23.
For Rotors I bought both Stoptech 2pc AeroRotors ($650) and Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor ($160). Not wanting to chance ruining the Stoptechs, until I'm sure I've solved the problem, I've been running the Centrics with good results.
Biggest improvemt was likely cutting off the dust shields. Temperature indicating paint on the rotors is telling me I had temperatures between 750°C and 1,000°C at NHMS and betwenn 1,000°C and 1,200°C at Mt Tremblant. Caliper temperatues 143°C left side and 166°C right.
The rear rotors and calipers are running hotter than I would have expected. At Mt Tremblant, rotors were betwenn 1,000°C and 1,200°C and both left and right calipers at 188°C. I think I need to remove of cut off the rear dust shields now.
Front brake ducts are the same 2.5" diameter and positioned below the caliper. If I have overheating problems at the Glen, I'll try to reposition them to get more cooling air into the rotor hat.
Pads are still Hawk DTC-60s, Brake Fuild is Castrol SRF and I use Titanium shims
For Rotors I bought both Stoptech 2pc AeroRotors ($650) and Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor ($160). Not wanting to chance ruining the Stoptechs, until I'm sure I've solved the problem, I've been running the Centrics with good results.
Biggest improvemt was likely cutting off the dust shields. Temperature indicating paint on the rotors is telling me I had temperatures between 750°C and 1,000°C at NHMS and betwenn 1,000°C and 1,200°C at Mt Tremblant. Caliper temperatues 143°C left side and 166°C right.
The rear rotors and calipers are running hotter than I would have expected. At Mt Tremblant, rotors were betwenn 1,000°C and 1,200°C and both left and right calipers at 188°C. I think I need to remove of cut off the rear dust shields now.
Front brake ducts are the same 2.5" diameter and positioned below the caliper. If I have overheating problems at the Glen, I'll try to reposition them to get more cooling air into the rotor hat.
Pads are still Hawk DTC-60s, Brake Fuild is Castrol SRF and I use Titanium shims
08-08-2012, 04:13 PM
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If the stoptechs don't work out for you I've got a big brake kit (4 wilwood piston mounted calipers/ rotors/flex hoses/mounting hardware/rotors and pads) I could give you a deal on. Let me know if you're interested, I could give you more details.
08-08-2012, 05:53 PM
#33
08-08-2012, 07:31 PM
#34
Brake problem solved based on 2 track days at NHMS running the south oval and 3 days at Mt Tremblant. Real test will be Watkins Glen Aug 22-23.
For Rotors I bought both Stoptech 2pc AeroRotors ($650) and Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor ($160). Not wanting to chance ruining the Stoptechs, until I'm sure I've solved the problem, I've been running the Centrics with good results.
Biggest improvemt was likely cutting off the dust shields. Temperature indicating paint on the rotors is telling me I had temperatures between 750°C and 1,000°C at NHMS and betwenn 1,000°C and 1,200°C at Mt Tremblant. Caliper temperatues 143°C left side and 166°C right.
The rear rotors and calipers are running hotter than I would have expected. At Mt Tremblant, rotors were betwenn 1,000°C and 1,200°C and both left and right calipers at 188°C. I think I need to remove of cut off the rear dust shields now.
Front brake ducts are the same 2.5" diameter and positioned below the caliper. If I have overheating problems at the Glen, I'll try to reposition them to get more cooling air into the rotor hat.
Pads are still Hawk DTC-60s, Brake Fuild is Castrol SRF and I use Titanium shims
For Rotors I bought both Stoptech 2pc AeroRotors ($650) and Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor ($160). Not wanting to chance ruining the Stoptechs, until I'm sure I've solved the problem, I've been running the Centrics with good results.
Biggest improvemt was likely cutting off the dust shields. Temperature indicating paint on the rotors is telling me I had temperatures between 750°C and 1,000°C at NHMS and betwenn 1,000°C and 1,200°C at Mt Tremblant. Caliper temperatues 143°C left side and 166°C right.
The rear rotors and calipers are running hotter than I would have expected. At Mt Tremblant, rotors were betwenn 1,000°C and 1,200°C and both left and right calipers at 188°C. I think I need to remove of cut off the rear dust shields now.
Front brake ducts are the same 2.5" diameter and positioned below the caliper. If I have overheating problems at the Glen, I'll try to reposition them to get more cooling air into the rotor hat.
Pads are still Hawk DTC-60s, Brake Fuild is Castrol SRF and I use Titanium shims
750-1000 deg F - iron is all good pretty much
Once on past 1200 - all sorts of bad things happen to gray iron. There are many factors - cooling too much on a straight is bad, heating up too quickly, heating or cooling unevenly as well as the gross max temp attained.
-DBA changed the slot design - that lil straight one on the edge was killing rotors. I run DBA 2 piece on my C5 Z06 - w/ DTC70/R6's I got 4-5 times more life out of front rotors. They have regular slots w/out the extra slot.
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