Nismo-Z

Any suggestions on adding camber? I'm getting maybe 6 to 8 track days out my front tires with the stock setup on my 08 Nismo. My track buddies (mostly BMW drivers) recommend 3° front and about half that in the rear. My preference is something adjustable. Z1 has a couple of different choices for camber arms.

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Rear camber will depend on if you are using the factory rear diff or a real one. Secondly, take temps on inner, middle and outer. Try and keep it at a 10-15 degree spread from inner to outer.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Questions: what part of the tire is wearing out? All of it, or just the inner or outter edges? What hot tire pressures? What tires?

SPL parts FTW!!! really nice track-quality parts...

Nismo-Z

I'm still running street tire (Potenza RE050A) where I need to be on R-compound as I have over 50 track days in the last 3 year. My thought is to fix the camber 1st before I wear out a new set of tires.

Front tire wear is outer edges. I usually start the day at 32PSI cold, and bleed down to 40PSI square when hot. Tires start to feel greasy over 40.

Blistering and chucking a problem too - photo is my right rear after 11 track days (4 at NHMS, 7 Watkins Glen).

Car is a stock 2008 Nismo 350z, so still running the OEM diff

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

RE050A's are garbage. With the viscous in the rear you are going to wear the edges. If you run more than -2. You'll eat up the inner part of the tire under acceleration and it still isn't enough to keep the wear from corning square across the tire face (wear outside edges). R-comps are fun, but if you've been running around on the RE050's the past few years...I think it will blow your mind how good RS3's and Star Specs are....especially if you upgrade the diff. I'd stay around -3 in front and -1.7ish in the back with a factory diff. There isn't a whole lot you can do to minimize wear in the rear with the VLSD.

That said, the Nismo diff can be had for cheap, and it works. Is it the best....no. It's a bit clumsy in its operation IMO, but it is light years better than the open diff/vlsd. With 50 track days on your car, I'd be surprised if your diff is even holding 10% lock-up at this point.

If it were me....list of priorities:
Tires
Front A-arms or offset bushings
LSD
Rear Camber arms

mvp2765

I'm running -3 up front and about -2 in the rear. I get amazing traction. Reason being is that I don't have enough power yet to break loose

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I run -3.2 front and -2.2 rear

I would start with -2.5 front and -2 rear with your stock Nismo suspension

Then if your running on the stock Nismo wheels try a set of 275/35-19 rear and 275/35-18 front.

shaddy-z.

I'm running kinetix front A-arms and SPL and SBC camber and toe arms in the rear. My specs are at -4 in the front and -2 in the rear. Definitely look into an LSD and you will notice great improvements. Slowly starting to drift my car which is why the camber is set the way it is.

I've had no problems with any of the arms, but some people do not like kinetix because they don't fit perfect. Because of my ride height, I had to cut out holes in my frame because the arms kept hitting and it sounded like Armageddon. That wouldn't be a problem if you don't plan on being very low. Other than that all my arms and easy to adjust and hold their setting very good.

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

OP seems more focused on motorsports...not hellaflush fitment.

shaddy-z.

Drift = Motorsport correct? My car is low and flush but I'm not running incredibly stupid offset and super stretched tires. Camber is reasonable at -4 front and -2 rear is it not? No disrespect to you, your avatar looks awesome

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

Keep it under three, if it's still a DD

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Drift and grip setups are completely different and your setting are for neither. -4 front camber is not reasonable, most of our cars end up in the lower 3 area .

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

My opinion, and please don't take it personal, is no. It's ice skating with cars. Take some skill to do well, sure, but it's judged subjective...

shaddy-z.

Yeah I know they're very different, I just have it set that way because I did *well* with it at my last event. I always play with my settings and that's how they just are now. Always changing and fine tuning
No offense taken! Different strokes for different folks. I will try autox soon just need to set some time aside. Of course my specs will change for that and different wheel/tire setup.

All in all I just came to provide OP with what arms I was using not trying to start a pissing contest of specs or difference in sports

JDSMotoring

iTrader: (15)

SPL or Kinetix are quality and reliable for camber adjustments

Nismo-Z

Any suggestion on an A-arm that will give a full range of adjustment? I see SPC Front Camber Arms that with +/- 2.5° of camber adjustment, SPL Arms with - 2.5°/+ 1.0°, Kinetix with +/- 1.5° and Stillen with - 2.5°/+ 0.25°.
I'm tracking the vehicle so I'm looking for something that won't break or loose camber adjustment while on the track. Also looking for the ability to make camber adjustments between sessions on track day. Cost is of secondary importance.

acke15

iTrader: (1)

Spl fits your needs.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

SPL would do it and are probably the easiest to adjust. The Megan racing arms I just removed also worked great over the past 5 years of track abuse.

Megan or Kinitex on the cheap side , SPL if you have the coin.

2000atlanticgt

iTrader: (5)

If I read your first post correctly you are running the stock Nismo Z springs/shocks? I installed these on my 2003 350Z and with the Kinetix arms I was only able to get a maximum of -1.5° negative camber fully adjusted in. I have since had them modified, machined the facing of the threaded tube down just about to the weld, to allow more negative camber adjustments at stock ride height. I just installed the modified front control arms this week and aligned the car yesterday. I set the front at -1.8° camber for now since I do still drive this car on the street the majority of the time. Even after modiying the front control arms, I really doubt I could get anywhere near -3° camber (again at stock ride height). I can probably go another 3-4 turns on each side to get me to -2.3°-2.5° (0.18° per rotation).

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

Did I read that correctly?