The car holds left turns fine. But in right hand turns it wants to wag. Ill hold the steering wheel still for a steady line and it drifts out to the double yellow a little then catches and sticks. This repeats causing it to wag. Pulled the wheels off,all bushings are fine except rear diff bushing (ordering those tomorrow) tie rods have no play, coil overs aren't loose. Anything I'm overlooking? I could picture the diff bushing being the problem but to only act up one direction seems odd to me. Before I go replacing random bushings that visually look fine, has anyone had this problem before?
Thanks in advance.

 

Alignment?

 

could definately be alignment. bad toe=will pull, bad camber=not enogh contact patch.
im guessing that it will 'wag' turning left also, its just that the weight of you on the left side makes it break loose. maybe.. my car gets super squiler on the roads i drive, and its very easy to get into a drift.
my recommendation is really wide sticky rear tires and slightly smaller fronts, this will get rid of some of the oversteer issues. also it sounds like it handles very similar to mine, and i think the shocks are dead/ gone bad, and 'feels' like i need more rebound and a helper spring.
and for fun this is the road i like to drive. mulholland snake>
an image of the course/ road>
http://www.rockstorephotos.com/image/map.jpg

AND EVERONE SHOULD WATCH THIS! you think you cant crash...

this is just one of the reasons tanner foust is my favorite driver.
you can tell its just dangerous even at low speeds.

a link to a forum about an ifs crashing on the snake>
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CC4QrQMwAQ

 

Alignment looks fine. Toe is matching exact on both sides. Currently running 265/285 staggered but the problem was there right before I put this set of tires on and those were a 275/285 combo. I disconnected one side of the sway bar and drove, problem still there so I know it isn't a sway bar issue. Was thinking to much preload.

I'm on KW V3's and they show no signs of a blown coil over. Can't say I've ever heard of one malfunctioning somehow without it being blown. The rebound and compression adjustments are equal on all four corners as well. Nice fun road to drive by the way! I'm a little to spoiled myself, I work at and have deals gap (the dragon) as my play ground lol this is where everyone goes for ZdayZ.

 

Buddy, I have the EXACT SAME PROBLEM. It's only on right turns too! It's like the front end plows, then grabs, the plows again, over and over; all while I'm holding the steering wheel still.

I haven't had a chance to get up close to look; but I'm thinking it's a blown damper. To be specific, the front driver side. I'm thinking the "wagging" is coming from lack of dampening, and all the suspension work on that front driver side is coming from tight springs and tight sway bars. The plow and grab coming from that corner compressing and rebounding on the spring alone.

Besides that, I also noticed that my compression rod bushings are dead. So that may be the reason alone. But either way, i just got my tax return, so they're all getting upgrades.

 

When you say there's "no signs" of a blown damper, it all depends on how you test it. Without a shock dyno and the skill to use it, you're only guessing at how the shock is performing.

 

checked wheel bearings?

 

I ended up ordering a rear end poly bushing kit as well as new rear camber arms and the problem is fixed. I'm not entirely sure whether it was the bushings or the camber arms but the issue is no longer. I'm assuming it was a bushing that was just starting to go out and i couldn't see how worn it was since they all had signs of 100k miles on them.

 

I would check rear wheel bearings. Jack up the rear and apply parking brakes. Try to move the rear wheels in a side to side and up and down motion.

 

I think your situation was more of a rear issue. My rears are already either solid or poly. I'm going to try to go poly on my fronts and see what happens. Koni Yellows are also going in.

 

i had this issue. one part of it was a strut bolt that backed out i think. MOST of it was the axel lock nut was not torqued down at all