SPC camber kit vs Kinetix camber kits
SPC camber kit vs Kinetix camber kits
I just recently purchased another z from a member in here and in the market for control arms. The z sits pretty low on k-sport coils. I did some research but can't decide between them. Money is not an issue. The car is my daily driver and will not see any track events. Your advice will be appreciated.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Shreveport, LA/Longview, WA
I just recently purchased another z from a member in here and in the market for control arms. The z sits pretty low on k-sport coils. I did some research but can't decide between them. Money is not an issue. The car is my daily driver and will not see any track events. Your advice will be appreciated.
I was looking at that those too but since I'm not going to run any aggressive camber or track my car I thought it be unnecessary money to waste. I could be wrong though.
My Kinetix arms work great in the front, not so much in the rear. I took the rear arms off due to handling problems that I found was related to the Kinetix rear bushings being softer than the OEM near solid bushings. They lasted about 5-6 months if I recall before this issue started, it was not immediate.
You can see my problem and photos here: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...uspension.html
You can see my problem and photos here: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...uspension.html
I had ordered the Kinetix package for my Z when I first built my suspension, never drove on the kit. My cousin & I installed them & found there was to much play in the rear arms. I sent it back & ordered Battle Version rear arms & Evo350 front A-arms. They have been great. Of the 2 options I would go SPC
I debated between Kinetics and SPC when I bought my arms. I ended up going with the newer version of SPC's and they've been fine.
If money is not an issue, i'd go SPL. It's probably a bit of overkill for your average street car, but everyone's been quite happy with them.
If money is not an issue, i'd go SPL. It's probably a bit of overkill for your average street car, but everyone's been quite happy with them.
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you think it will knock on this height?
The knocking came from clearance issues on slammed cars in the inner fender well. I don't think it's really an issue anymore. SPC has changed the design of their front arms within the last couple years.
ehhh true... but I don't think I would be adjusting my camber much once my car is aligned. I don't want to worry about lubing the bushing or squeaky noises from my arms: from what people say here about the kinetix arms.
hands down man, i think to make an accurate decision you need to read the suspension 101 thread at least twice, with going back and forth to the car on jack stands so you can get a flash light to the components and really really understand what the the suspension 101 thread is referring too....print the first three pages of the 101 thread and read as you look under the car.........really understand the Z's dynamic suspension..
Front:
UCA LOCATION (#7 upper link):
Front upper control arms - Kinetics - hands down over the spc.
Read about the kinetics and how they adjust and work:
Kinetics - https://my350z.com/forum/8293437-post7.html
SPC:
The fact that the spc uses a single bolt to adjust both camber and caster is functionally ridiculous! physically you cant hold its eccentric design from moving and tighten to the required HIGH torque value required with out moving......its difficult and dumb...
the designs is more theatrical rather than practical......by design it does both camber and caster yes - but practicality of the spc is just not there...
---further - the dammn spacer between the knuckle and abs sensor relocating is just ridiculous....
https://my350z.com/forum/7242868-post1.html
Rear arms:
So you mention that you have Ksports - which are True style coilovers -
So:....
-hands down, remove the - #21 rear lower link -ie, the spring bucket and toss it! make a dammn flower pot out of it...i dunno...
- get a sets of lock out washers and pair them with - purchase a -#22 front lower link - rear camber arms. camber in the rear is done and done...
- and purchase another set of lock out washers and pair it with a rear toe arm set (spring bucket replacement arms -#21 rear lower link) ,do not confuse this with the -#23 radius rod - traction arm - as many online vendors "say" this adjust toe , but is NOT the correct toe adjustment location for how the rear IRS - independent rear suspension - works!
for a daily driver - leave #23 alone, no need to switch from oem unless the bushing is bad, so just inspect it...
For both above mentioned rear arms - get rear arms that are rod end style - but stay away from cheap casted rod ends.....
ref.: https://my350z.com/forum/8293406-post4.html
Read the suspension 101 thread....
-J
Front:
UCA LOCATION (#7 upper link):
Front upper control arms - Kinetics - hands down over the spc.
Read about the kinetics and how they adjust and work:
Kinetics - https://my350z.com/forum/8293437-post7.html
SPC:
The fact that the spc uses a single bolt to adjust both camber and caster is functionally ridiculous! physically you cant hold its eccentric design from moving and tighten to the required HIGH torque value required with out moving......its difficult and dumb...
the designs is more theatrical rather than practical......by design it does both camber and caster yes - but practicality of the spc is just not there...
---further - the dammn spacer between the knuckle and abs sensor relocating is just ridiculous....
https://my350z.com/forum/7242868-post1.html
Rear arms:
So you mention that you have Ksports - which are True style coilovers -
So:....
-hands down, remove the - #21 rear lower link -ie, the spring bucket and toss it! make a dammn flower pot out of it...i dunno...
- get a sets of lock out washers and pair them with - purchase a -#22 front lower link - rear camber arms. camber in the rear is done and done...
- and purchase another set of lock out washers and pair it with a rear toe arm set (spring bucket replacement arms -#21 rear lower link) ,do not confuse this with the -#23 radius rod - traction arm - as many online vendors "say" this adjust toe , but is NOT the correct toe adjustment location for how the rear IRS - independent rear suspension - works!
for a daily driver - leave #23 alone, no need to switch from oem unless the bushing is bad, so just inspect it...
For both above mentioned rear arms - get rear arms that are rod end style - but stay away from cheap casted rod ends.....
ref.: https://my350z.com/forum/8293406-post4.html
Read the suspension 101 thread....
-J
SPC:
uses a aluminum enfused bushing, so the lug of the mating part is pinching the side of the bushing and this segment is a large diameter that the rubber bushing that is enfused to the metal ring of the tubing is thin amount of rubber, so the twisting tears the rubber.
Kinetics:
Their bushings are not enfused/adheard to any metal of the kinetics arm, they are slipped in around a metal sleeve that holds the bolt, so the sleave is whats pinched between the lug of the car and the bushing is free to slide around the now fixed sleeve.
SPC is a shiet design..done and done...
decide for yourself...
-J
Yes!! forgot to mention that....
SPC:
uses a aluminum enfused bushing, so the lug of the mating part is pinching the side of the bushing and this segment is a large diameter that the rubber bushing that is enfused to the metal ring of the tubing is thin amount of rubber, so the twisting tears the rubber.
Kinetics:
Their bushings are not enfused/adheard to any metal of the kinetics arm, they are slipped in around a metal sleeve that holds the bolt, so the sleave is whats pinched between the lug of the car and the bushing is free to slide around the now fixed sleeve.
SPC is a shiet design..done and done...
decide for yourself...
-J
SPC:
uses a aluminum enfused bushing, so the lug of the mating part is pinching the side of the bushing and this segment is a large diameter that the rubber bushing that is enfused to the metal ring of the tubing is thin amount of rubber, so the twisting tears the rubber.
Kinetics:
Their bushings are not enfused/adheard to any metal of the kinetics arm, they are slipped in around a metal sleeve that holds the bolt, so the sleave is whats pinched between the lug of the car and the bushing is free to slide around the now fixed sleeve.
SPC is a shiet design..done and done...
decide for yourself...
-J
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Shreveport, LA/Longview, WA
hands down man, i think to make an accurate decision you need to read the suspension 101 thread at least twice, with going back and forth to the car on jack stands so you can get a flash light to the components and really really understand what the the suspension 101 thread is referring too....print the first three pages of the 101 thread and read as you look under the car.........really understand the Z's dynamic suspension..
Front:
UCA LOCATION (#7 upper link):
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/brakes-and-suspension/283470d1271167121-suspension-101-front-suspension.jpg[/IMG]
Front upper control arms - Kinetics - hands down over the spc.
Read about the kinetics and how they adjust and work:
Kinetics - https://my350z.com/forum/8293437-post7.html
SPC:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/brakes-and-suspension/283544d1271185973-suspension-101-spcucas.jpg[/IMG]
The fact that the spc uses a single bolt to adjust both camber and caster is functionally ridiculous! physically you cant hold its eccentric design from moving and tighten to the required HIGH torque value required with out moving......its difficult and dumb...
the designs is more theatrical rather than practical......by design it does both camber and caster yes - but practicality of the spc is just not there...
---further - the dammn spacer between the knuckle and abs sensor relocating is just ridiculous....
https://my350z.com/forum/7242868-post1.html
Rear arms:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/brakes-and-suspension/283471d1271167121-suspension-101-rear-suspension.jpg[/IMG]
So you mention that you have Ksports - which are True style coilovers -
So:....
-hands down, remove the - #21 rear lower link -ie, the spring bucket and toss it! make a dammn flower pot out of it...i dunno...
- get a sets of lock out washers and pair them with - purchase a -#22 front lower link - rear camber arms. camber in the rear is done and done...
- and purchase another set of lock out washers and pair it with a rear toe arm set (spring bucket replacement arms -#21 rear lower link) ,do not confuse this with the -#23 radius rod - traction arm - as many online vendors "say" this adjust toe , but is NOT the correct toe adjustment location for how the rear IRS - independent rear suspension - works!
for a daily driver - leave #23 alone, no need to switch from oem unless the bushing is bad, so just inspect it...
For both above mentioned rear arms - get rear arms that are rod end style - but stay away from cheap casted rod ends.....
ref.: https://my350z.com/forum/8293406-post4.html
Read the suspension 101 thread....
-J
Front:
UCA LOCATION (#7 upper link):
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/brakes-and-suspension/283470d1271167121-suspension-101-front-suspension.jpg[/IMG]
Front upper control arms - Kinetics - hands down over the spc.
Read about the kinetics and how they adjust and work:
Kinetics - https://my350z.com/forum/8293437-post7.html
SPC:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/brakes-and-suspension/283544d1271185973-suspension-101-spcucas.jpg[/IMG]
The fact that the spc uses a single bolt to adjust both camber and caster is functionally ridiculous! physically you cant hold its eccentric design from moving and tighten to the required HIGH torque value required with out moving......its difficult and dumb...
the designs is more theatrical rather than practical......by design it does both camber and caster yes - but practicality of the spc is just not there...
---further - the dammn spacer between the knuckle and abs sensor relocating is just ridiculous....
https://my350z.com/forum/7242868-post1.html
Rear arms:
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments/brakes-and-suspension/283471d1271167121-suspension-101-rear-suspension.jpg[/IMG]
So you mention that you have Ksports - which are True style coilovers -
So:....
-hands down, remove the - #21 rear lower link -ie, the spring bucket and toss it! make a dammn flower pot out of it...i dunno...
- get a sets of lock out washers and pair them with - purchase a -#22 front lower link - rear camber arms. camber in the rear is done and done...
- and purchase another set of lock out washers and pair it with a rear toe arm set (spring bucket replacement arms -#21 rear lower link) ,do not confuse this with the -#23 radius rod - traction arm - as many online vendors "say" this adjust toe , but is NOT the correct toe adjustment location for how the rear IRS - independent rear suspension - works!
for a daily driver - leave #23 alone, no need to switch from oem unless the bushing is bad, so just inspect it...
For both above mentioned rear arms - get rear arms that are rod end style - but stay away from cheap casted rod ends.....
ref.: https://my350z.com/forum/8293406-post4.html
Read the suspension 101 thread....
-J
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