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Vibration while driving and in the brake pedal when slowing down from 60+ mph

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Vibration while driving and in the brake pedal when slowing down from 60+ mph

Old 08-06-2018, 02:27 PM
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Luciddreamer112
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Default Vibration while driving and in the brake pedal when slowing down from 60+ mph

I am brand new to the forum and this is my first ever post so I apologize if I do this wrong but here goes.. I have a base 05 350z with a vibration in the brake pedal. It starts as small vibration causing things in the rearview mirror to be just a bit blurry and when I apply brakes I can feel it in the pedal until I come to a complete stop. Once I stop the brakes feel fine and it may or may not happen again during the next braking period. I just got new rims and tires, all balanced, I just installed new front hubs, pads and rotors and it is still happening. I performed the break in of the new rotors and pads and when the vibration doesnt occur, the brakes feel solid and smooth. I am at a loss as to where to look next.

thank you in advance.
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Old 08-06-2018, 02:58 PM
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Welcome- there's some type of imbalance in the reciprocating parts you've installed. Start by doing a close inspection of each of the new wheels and tires. Also, check the rotors and pads, look for any brake material or contamination on any of these components. I'd also inspect the new hubs and even the wheel studs to insure they aren't the source of the vibration.
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Old 08-06-2018, 05:26 PM
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Yeah I will take a close look at those and see what's going on. I'm going to take it to the tire shop soon. Maybe a weight popped off or something. Thank you for the quick reply. It's a start.
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Old 08-06-2018, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Luciddreamer112 View Post
Yeah I will take a close look at those and see what's going on. I'm going to take it to the tire shop soon. Maybe a weight popped off or something. Thank you for the quick reply. It's a start.
Start with auto shop 101 basics...

Vibration under braking is usually caused by one of only a few things: improperly adjusted wheel bearings, improperly torqued wheels causing rotor warpage (or out of round due to over torque in one side and/or wheel wobble. Onviously, check these first..... especially the wheel torque.

If that fails to cure the oroblem, tear down the calipers and reverse the inboard snd outboard pads to eliminate pad irregularities as cause and while in there, lube the puston faces and check for pistons sticking.

That all fails then turn your attention to tires.....

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Old 08-07-2018, 04:58 PM
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Will do I will check this all soon and go from there. Thank you for the reply
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Old 08-07-2018, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Luciddreamer112 View Post
Will do I will check this all soon and go from there. Thank you for the reply
Cool, please feed it back to close out the thread. Helps others with a good write up of the solution.
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Old 08-11-2018, 04:30 PM
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Well took the car to the car wash today and it happened on the way there. Pulled in the stall and started spraying and when I hit the driver side rear rotor it started steaming. I think the caliper is not releasing properly and cooking the rotor. Once that happened I noticed the other 3 new rotors still have the cross-hatching showing and the driver rear is already smooth. This issue started happening before I did new rotors and pads so I think I found my problem.
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:35 PM
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Figured it out. My driver side rear brake line was shot so it was acting as a check valve. So I replaced all brake lines to stay ahead of it. Also, i dont know what nissan was doing when they designed the front brake lines but wow.. in between the caliper and the metal brake line there are 6 points of failure where the soft lines can break. Just thought that was crazy. . Good to go now though. Thank you all for the help.
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