I just bought a "Mity Vac". Haven't opened it yet, but figure it might be easier to bleed than having my GF help out. Haven't read the directions yet, but does anyone have any pointers on how to use it?

 

Russell Speed Bleeders are also very easy for one man brake bleeder jobs... they have a ball valve that seals after you let go of the pedal.

 

What size speed bleeders do we need for the Z. Non Brembo

 

to be honest.. i dont know.

its probably a 10mm x 1.0... as for length.. i dont know.

i'm on stoptech bbks ( which use 1992-1996 Dodge Viper bleeders.. which are 10mmx1.0x33mm length).. how ever i still use the traditional two man procedure to bleed.

 

I recently used the OP's method with SS lines, Motul brake fluid, new pads and new rotors and I have a very soft pedal as well. Much softer than stock. I feel like the pedal is softer now than stock which doesn't make sense to me. I can push the pedal to the floor with relative ease. We bled the system for a lonnnnnng time after I drove it around for a few days so there isnt any air in there. At the track yesterday I managed to put the brake pedal to the floor and the car didnt lock wheels or seem like it was braking at full capacity. Anyone ever experience this or have any ideas why that would happen given this set up?

 

As described in the OP, this method is sure to get additional air into the brake lines. The soft brake pedal and 'pfff' sound is that of air compressing against the hydrallic fluid. Adding SS lines won't help this. You either need a one-man brake bleeder with a large diaphram (NOT a Mity vac with it's small cup), or go back to a two man bleed. I've used this pneumatic brake bleeder with good results in both my race T2 and street 350Zs:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...rrivals&page=1

 

Sooo...Motive Brake Pressure Bleeder

http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...ount2=19294381

Worked for me.