Pre-Buy inspection? How can I know if the car has been beat on
#1
Registered User
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Pre-Buy inspection? How can I know if the car has been beat on
hey guys! Looking to buy another 350
What are the tell tale signs that the car has been beat on?
I understand that if a car has mods done to it then it was probably raced or at least driven hard or if the car is just in poor condition in general then there was a lack of pride in ownership so other things may have been neglected.
I am OK with buying a car that has an intake, exhaust, etc. (the typical bolt ons).
When I bring the car to the mechanic what should I SPECIFICALLY tell him to look at along with the general pre-buy inspection?
Thanks!
What are the tell tale signs that the car has been beat on?
I understand that if a car has mods done to it then it was probably raced or at least driven hard or if the car is just in poor condition in general then there was a lack of pride in ownership so other things may have been neglected.
I am OK with buying a car that has an intake, exhaust, etc. (the typical bolt ons).
When I bring the car to the mechanic what should I SPECIFICALLY tell him to look at along with the general pre-buy inspection?
Thanks!
#2
New Member
Take it to the Nissan dealership, and spend approx. $100-$150 for an inspection. That should hopefully answer your questions regarding the current state of the vehicle.
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UZ_ (10-04-2015)
#3
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iTrader: (6)
Quick checks... Check the color/smell of fluids. Brake fluid should be clear. Oil can be black, but shouldn't stink, smell like gas, be foamy or leave a gritty feeling on your fingers. Rear tires should have even tread depth all the way across. Put the manual trans in 5th and let out the clutch a bit. Car should want to stall. If not, clutch is toast. Use a scanner to check codes. Check front brake pads. Check lights, windows, locks, a/c, wipers. Check the rear diff cover for a black streak towards the left side. This means the rear diff bushing is blown. These are the quick/easy things you can check on an initial inspection/test drive.
Last edited by i8acobra; 10-04-2015 at 09:34 AM.
#6
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
Quick checks... Check the color/smell of fluids. Brake fluid should be clear. Oil can be black, but shouldn't stink, smell like gas, be foamy or leave a gritty feeling on your fingers. Rear tires should have even tread depth all the way across. Put the manual trans in 5th and let out the clutch a bit. Car should want to stall. If not, clutch is toast. Use a scanner to check codes. Check front brake pads. Check lights, windows, locks, a/c, wipers. Check the rear diff cover for a black streak towards the left side. This means the rear diff bushing is blown. These are the quick/easy things you can check on an initial inspection/test drive.
Very good suggestions.. Also your in new jersey so rust will be an issue. Luckily theirs lots of aluminum parts under the z33 but get under their and check out the salt damage. The w brace rusts like a champ, so does the exhaust especially by the flanges. Heat shields fall off... The front subframe under the plastic underbody piece can look ugly... But buying a used car gotta figure out what your willing to live with and pass on. Could find a pristine z33 for a pristine price or a good shape regularly driven car for a normal price.
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UZ_ (10-05-2015)
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Very good suggestions.. Also your in new jersey so rust will be an issue. Luckily theirs lots of aluminum parts under the z33 but get under their and check out the salt damage. The w brace rusts like a champ, so does the exhaust especially by the flanges. Heat shields fall off... The front subframe under the plastic underbody piece can look ugly... But buying a used car gotta figure out what your willing to live with and pass on. Could find a pristine z33 for a pristine price or a good shape regularly driven car for a normal price.
I like what you said there about what I am willing to take. Basically I detail a lot of cars and do general cosmetic and body work. Some scratches, some dents, I can take. I just DO NOT want a car with a blown engine or transmission. I will also upgrade to a stage 2 clutch at some point but if a car with 60 - 70k miles has a clutch that is slipping that will be a tell tale sign of a car that has been beat on and may lead to more problems down the road. I would much rather have a z with 110k highway (light) miles, than a 70k car which has been modded and beat to ****.
Thanks!
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#9
New Member
A slipping clutch on a 2007-2009 350Z is common and doesn't necessarily result from driver abuse. It's a known bad design of the factory concentric slave cylinder.
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Syner (10-19-2015)
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