Here's the dilema, I have swirls from the idiot dealer and today I went to a detail shop to see if they could get them out with a buffer. He said yes they could but they would try a small area to test it.

Well guess what, it did not work, the swirls are still there. They used a buffer that had 2 small 3" pads.

Can someone give me everything I need supplies wise and instruction on how do DIY? Price is not an issue as I want these swirls gone or do you recommend I go to a body shop, ect?

The detailer said oribital buffing can get ugly if you don't know what your doing.

Thanks for you time.

BTW, I use Zaino if that matters any. What kind of oribital buffer, swirl remover, ect. Do I wash with dawn first, help guys I am seriously lost here, lol!

 

here's a start:

http://forums.roadfly.org/forums/det...3579628-1.html

Read up on the Porter-Cable dual action random orbital. Much safer to use that a regular rotary.

I would suggest using Einzsett Pro Metallic Polish for minor swirls and Einzsett Paint Polish for more extensive swirls.

One of the best places to get a Porter-Cable Random Orbital is the model 7336 from Lowes.

You can get the Einzett polishes from www.1z-usa.com or http://www.openroadmotoring.com/

Polishing pad kits can be found at http://www.autopia-carcare.com/

For more detailed questions, check out www.autopia.org

After polishing with anything, it is a good idea to go over the car with isopropol alcohol or a paint prep product to remove any wax or oil buildup from the polishes.

 

You know, I had some pretty bad swirls as well. I went ahead and got the 3M finish restorer, and used a random orbital buffer (40 dollar one, not the PC). And the results were pretty impressive! I used a clean cotton bonnet, and medium then light pressure as it hazed. I still have some swirling, but it is veyr much reduced, and for 8 bucks plus 40 for a RO, I cant complain!

 

I used this on my '03 SB and it took out all of the swirling and most of the scratches. Only the deeper scratches are left but most are now invisible after waxing (currenlty using Meguiars NXT). I'm amazed at at how well this $5 bottle of liquid works especially when I know I'd be charged $150-200 to have it swirls and scratches removed professionally. It only took me about two hours to meticulously get around the entire car. I applied by hand, working the liquid in, and then immediately buffed with a handheld rotary buffer and brand new bonnet.

Unfortunately I don't have any close up photos from before, but here are some after pix. It's raining outside, so I took these in my garage.

 

a pc can help, but can only do so much. If a PC doesent work, a rotary should do the job. A rotary should be used by someone with experience though.

 

Well said.

 

I just recently bought a PC from lowes. I bought my lake country mfg pads and Menzerna polishes from topoftheline.com. I chose the Menzerna polishes because they are known to cooperate well with zaino and are very safe. You do have to work them a bit more as they are not a abrasive as some other stuff, but I like them. So far I have done 2 Z's, a G, and the SE-R. The Nissans were much easier to tackle, as it seems the infiniti paint (clear) is much harder.

I spent nearly $200 on all the supplies. Let me know if you want a list of everything I bought.

 

Please do tell us about all the supplies. I clicked on the link above and plan to get a PC. I think I might be able to get more fo the scratches out now that I have this info. Not that the paint doesn't look 100 times better already. Thanks guys!

 

PorterCable 7336

6" DA velcro pad holder
1 Orange, 2 white, 1 Green, 1 Black LC Polishing Pad
Menzerna Intensive Polish
Menzerna Final Polish ll

 

Sent you a PM>>>>

 

I have a method I use, but I got it from the above man (Kevin) and some tips over at Autopia. I can post that up too if you would like, but give me a day to collect all the steps in a document.

 

I'm interested as well

 

PC's ROCK!!!
Love Mine....Even to remove wax.....Best thing that I have ever bought for car care!!!

 

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...8ed+1087390227

for few bucks more than you'd pay at lowes..you get the additional counter-weights which will open up your polishing pad options

 

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Please keep in mind that I am no expert. I have only done the following on 4 cars. I have not had any issues and these are the steps that work best for me. If I have left anything out I will try to add to the list. The Portal Cable is really a safe and easy way to buff the car. About the only way you will hurt your car is if you take the PC and swing it by the cord like a lasso and whack your car with it. Go to www.autopia.org for other tips and complete detailing discussions.

1. Complete Wash (claybar if needed or never done). I cant stress how important is it to have a very clean car. Make sure to have removed any tar / road grime from body surface.

2. Polish prep - I tape the plastic / rubber window seals, door handles, and transition areas with blue masking tape. I have done it without the tape, and it just saves time by taping it off. You will go over the "line" and the tape saves you from having to remove the product from the rubber / plastic.

3.Polish – There are two categories that I feel comfortable discussing (basically dealing with newer car problem areas). You have deeper scratches that you most likely can improve but not remove and then there are swirls. I have no experience bringing an old car back from the dead so I don’t really know how I would tackle that type of job.

Deep Scratches / Swirls – I use Menzerna Intensive polish (IP) with a white polishing pad first. The standard protocol is to try the least abrasive pad with a more intensive polish first then increase to a stronger pad if needed. I have yet to use the stronger orange pad, but I think I could have on a couple spots on the G. Now its hard to explain the buffing speed, motion or pressure you use on an area. I think it very much depends on the product and user experience. Basically let the machine do the work, you will find the motion and light pressure needed to achieve your goal. You may have to work the deep flaws more than once. Maybe Kevin can chime in here. I use a small circular and figure 8 pattern with very light pressure such that the machine is not straining to turn on the paint at speed 3-4. Some products are said not to use any pressure other than the weight of the buffer. I think its all what works for you. Follow this by a quick buff with a finer polish (read next).

Typical Polish / Swirls – I use the Menzerna Final Polish II (FPII) on a white pad. For most of you this will take care of all your problems. It may take 2 steps to remove some tough swirls but its much easer to use one pad and one product for the entire car. (You do need to use one product per pad which is why I have 2 white pads). I go over the area the first time with the speed set to 3-3.5 working the area as above. I then remove the product and evaluate the area. If I am not satisfied I hit it again this time bumping up the speed to about 4. If you know the area you are working on will only need one pass, then I would probably set the speed to 4. Again it is all what works for you. There is not just one right way.

The area size I try to stick to is 2x2. I split the hood into 6 sections, the roof into 4, doors into 3 (top section and two bottom left and right sections), etc. You get the idea.

To remove the product I use a fresh micro fiber towel. Surface kinda squeaks when it is clean. Water may be used to help remove the Menzerna products but I don’t know about the others.

4. Wax/Polymer/Polish Prep – Because I use Zaino as my finishing product it requires the paint to be free of oils and waxes. Although Menzerna is said to be very cooperative with Zaino, it still uses oils to lubricate when polishing. Many other polishes use oils and petroleum bases as abrasives or polishing agents. To remove these oils I use denatured alcohol. This can be bought in the paint department of most hardware stores and even wal-mart. I have noticed that fresh alcohol really makes a difference as I was using some old stuff before and it did not work as well as the new stuff I just got. I either tip the can on the cloth or fill a spray bottle with just enough to do car. I mist surface and wipe before it drys. It should wipe very easy and haze for a second and disappear.

5. Apply Zaino with ZFX additive. I wont get into how to do this as it is covered all over the place. You can use any wax or polymer, I just prefer Zaino. I still do this by hand, but some have started to use the black pad to apply Zaino. Maybe some day I will try it, as I do have the pad waiting.

Don’t forget to wash pads out. Let them soak in a soapy water bucket and rinse well. You may have to work them abit in the soapy water. Do not wring. Air dry or wrap in a towel.

 

The one at lowes comes with the 6" counter weight already installed. It is the weigth recomended for the standard 6-7.5" pads.

It really is a better deal to get at lowes. They also have 10% off coupons in the paper all the time!

 

both counter weights? not that the price is bad at lowes...but having both counterweights is like having a PC 7336 & 7424 and again for few bucks more upfront you won't be limited to pad options...which you find there are many to choose from - from 4" pads for spot repairs up to the 7" 'ers...

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...8ed+1116419445

not sure if the lowes comes with backing pad and buffing pad(which the free one isn't great - but useful for using with a MF bonnet or for polishing glass) included in the price

 

No it only comes with the 6" weight which is the one most often used. Of all the people I talked to they use the 6" counter weight even on the smaller 4" pads, but i guess thats personal preference. With the sale and my 10% off coupon I think I got my PC for 79.99. It did come with the backing pad for sanding and the polishing pad.

 

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