crg914

iTrader: (5)

It's aftermarket seat covers, not factory leather. Will it still have a 'factory applied' seal?

One last question. What's the best thing to use to seal and protect aftermarket wheels? I would like to make them more resistant to scratching/chips from daily driving, as well as make them easier to clean.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

I would recommend you care for the leather with the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean. It's a deep cleaner and conditioner combination that I like to use for maximum cleaning and conditioning power. For protection you can use the 303 Aerospace Protectant on almost any leather, vinyl, rubber and plastic surface. Spray a light coating on a microfiber towel or applicator pad and wipe it on the seats. It helps prevent UV fading and other damages.

To protect your wheels I recommend the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. Just buff on a light coating and wipe off the excess residue. This will leave a coating of protection that helps prevent brake dust and road grime from bonding to your wheel. It makes future cleanings much easier and it smells outstanding (like watermelon).

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

ZSpectrum

iTrader: (4)

Agree with what was said above.

redline350ZZ

iTrader: (1)

Greg,

I recently got my car repainted (Redline) and while the paint looks great I have not been able to get it to shine as much as I would like. There are no swirls just some light scratches from the painter wet sanding or buffing I think (guessing). I have waxed the Z two times now using Migliore and previously (NXT) but I am now leaning towards some type of polish and if needed a PC.

At this point I am just looking for advice. I am willing to get a PC, polish, pads or whatever I need to get that extra shine.

I can't take it to the painter to get it buffed because he shut down and moved farther south (Florida)

Thanks

I seen in another post you recommended Menzerna PO106FF, is this hand applied?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Without seeing it, it's tough to know what exactly I would try. Most likely I would think the surface needs a polish like you suggested. I would definitely use at least a light polish and polish a medium polish. Polishes will help remove any haze left behind from the wet sanding or more aggressive buffing. It restore optically clarity to the clear coat which allows the maximum light to pass through the clear coat and thus provide a deep gloss to the surface. My favorite light polish is the Menzerna PO106FF or PO106FA (virtually the same product). If you think the surface may need a little more work I would start with the Super Intensive Polish (PO83). This is a slightly more aggressive polish that helps remove slightly deeper imperfections. A buffer like the PC 7424 will really help work in the polishes. Polishes have ultra fine micro-abrasives in them which require a lot of heat and pressure to be broken down. Polishing by hand can be done but it takes a lot of time and effort. A buffer generally is more realistic because it easily breaks down the polishes. A PC 7424 will help you get far more swirls and imperfections out of the paint. A rotary buffer or a Flex buffer will help you get an even smoother finish and more imperfections out of the clear coat. They provide even more heat and pressure and usually produce an even more vibrant shine.

I apply the medium polish (Menzerna PO83) with an LC orange light cutting pad and apply a light polish (Menzerna PO106FF) with a LC white polishing pad. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

redline350ZZ

iTrader: (1)

In addition to the light polish you listed would I need a finishing polish? I have seen people mention this so I ask. I also found what appears to be debris on my hood in the clear coat. If it is in the paint can I do anything to prevent the clear coat from flaking off? I can't get it fixed because I am moving to Washington and have no time.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

That is a good question. I think for the most people you can stop with the light polish. Assuming you apply it with a LC white polishing pad (or similar pad) there should be very little left to polish. A polish like the PO106FF should finish down extremely smooth and optically clear. Some other light polishes may not finish down quite as smooth. A finishing polish, like the Menzerna PO85RD, can be used with a really soft pad (LC Black or Blue Finishing Pad) to even further shine the surface. This is a really light pad and polish combination that really helps you get perfection. It removes that extremely light surface haze that is really not visible to the naked eye. It's not mandatory but it does help get that extra little "pop" in the paint.

It's hard to say what I would recommend about the clear coat "situation". I would really have to see this to make a more informed recommendation.

Greg @ Detailed Image

The Captain

iTrader: (3)

I had this weird sticky / grainy substance all over my hood after taking it to a shop. It was on there really good and wouldn't come off with soap / water and light scrubbing and I was afraid to be aggressive with scrubbing in fear of ruining the paint or scratching the clear coat.

I was going to try clay, but was afraid that if one of the granules got caught between the clay and the coat would scratch the paint as well.

Any advice on how to tackle problems like this? Maybe something I could apply to the hood and to maybe loosen up the mystery substance? (It wasn't like sap or anything. It was like something filled with dirt / sand got on the hood and just set in and dried to the hood)

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Sorry to hear about that. I'm not sure what those granules were, maybe some paint over spray? If it's just regular road grime you can probably loosen it or break it down with a pre-wash degreaser like the P21S Auto Wash or Poorboy's World Bug Squash. If it's paint over spray or a more stubborn build up I would try a clay bar. Use plenty of clay lube to ensure there is proper lubrication. Use some small pieces of clay so if they become contaminated with abrasive particles you can throw those pieces away. Inspect the clay during use to make sure it is safe to keep using.

Greg @ Detailed Image

greekguy824

iTrader: (1)

Mine is getting out of the shop on Wednesday so I have a similar question. Would the fresh paint benefit from a full detail, or would less be more in the instance of fresh paint? Thanks!

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

First off consult the shop on when you can protect the surface with a wax or sealant. Usually you have to wait 30 - 90 days before protecting the surface. In the mean time you could polish and clay bar the surface if needed. Typically the surface should be very clean since it was just applied, but you could clay it if it felt like it was slightly rough. You may need to polish depending on how well they finish down the clear coat with wet sanding and polishing. You may want to do a light polishing with the Menzerna PO106FF or Menzerna Final Polish II to ensure the surface is really clear and smooth.

After enough time has passed then I would definitely recommend protecting the surface with a quality sealant and/or wax. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image

MRfire

iTrader: (2)

Hey Greg -

I just got a set of matte black wheels. What's the best way to protect the finish on these? Anything that will maybe resist scratches and rock chips?

Thanks!
T

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

No way to protect the wheels from that kind of damage that I'm aware of. My two best suggestions would be to protect the wheels and clean them safely. I protect the wheels from road grime, high temperature brake dust, etc. with the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. It helps prevent brake dust from bonding with the wheel and it makes future cleanings much easier, which minimizes scrubbing. I would also recommend cleaning them with some safe and clean products. Use a pH neutral cleaner like the P21S Wheel Gel or the Chemical Guys Wheel and Rim Citrus Cleaner. These cleaners are totally safe for all after market wheels and will not fade or tarnish them. Also use good clean sponges or mitts, that won't grind in contaminants, rinse them thoroughly while cleaning as well. Let me know if I can help you any further.

Greg @ Detailed Image

J. Dub

iTrader: (18)

Bumping back up as I have a question.

Does Lexol go bad? I ask cause I have the cleaner and conditioner that have been un touched since the day I bought it 3 years ago and was wondering if I could even use it now or do they expire?
TIA

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

In general products should last about 3 - 5 years in peak condition and they may fade slowly after that. This is true assuming the bottle was not exposed to very high or low temps. I would give the bottle a good shake and inspect it. As long as it appears uniform (no chunks) it should work just fine. With any brand new product or a product that is old like this I test it in a small (hopefully non-visible) area to ensure it's working as expected.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Greg @ DI

J. Dub

iTrader: (18)

Thanks Greg

GHOST1207

iTrader: (23)

How do I get rid of all the carbon build up inside the exhaust tips? I have used metal polisher in and on the outside, while the outside looks great, the inside still looks dirty. It is the OEM exhaust if that matters.

Second question, what exactly is the proper way to clean the engine bay? I've seen members spray directly into it, but I fear I might get water into the electronics. I've also been suggested to get a spray bottle with mild soap and spray the engine down when cold and wipe, but I figure that would be too time consuming and won't get into the nooks and crannies.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Some exhaust tips have a different finish on the inside that can not be cleaned or brushed like the exterior. They be designed to just look dark. Otherwise it should be able to be cleaned with a quality metal polish and some elbow grease. My go to metal polish for tough cleanings is the P21S Finish Restorer if interested.

As for the engine bay they do get wet and you can use water in there. There are some basic pre-cautions you should take before doing this that are very basic. I try use just a light mist of water to also avoid problems. Our engine bay care section of our detailing guide will give you step by step directions and product recommendations if interested. If you have additional questions please let me know.

Greg @ DI

GHOST1207

iTrader: (23)

Thanks Greg.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

No problem glad to help. I believe someone else posted this as well but I forgot to mention if the metal polishes don't work and you want to be more aggressive you can try steel wool. I would use 0000 or finer to start and use more aggressive as needed.

Greg @ DI