Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Sounds good I hope you are enjoying all the articles there is sooooo much great content in the detailing guide and our Ask A Pro section.

Sounds good we look forward to hearing from you. If you need any recommendations please let me know.

We are a warehouse only and we have sold our service side of the business. Let me know if you have any other questions.

350z-Jason

iTrader: (12)

I just picked up another car today, and the previous owner primered it, and didn't tape it up very well. How can I get primer (paint) off glass, and weatherstrips?

jg425

iTrader: (6)

You can use a clay bar to help remove some of the overspray on the glass and the weatherstrips. On the glass, you can also use a razor blade to get rid of the overspray. Just spray the glass down with some glass cleaner and run the razor over the areas.

350z-Jason

iTrader: (12)

the clay didn't even touch it. its automotive primer :/ the weatherstrips are the worst.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Oh boy I haven't actually had to do this myself. For the glass I would try the Glass Science Glass Scrub. It deep cleans the glass removing bug smear, sap and other stubborn build ups. For the trim I'd try the Poorboy's World Trim Restorer or the Einszett 1Z Gummi Pflege Stift Rubber Care Stick. I can't promise they will work but that is what I would try.

J. Dub

iTrader: (18)

Is lexol the best leather cleaner and conditioner? I read somewhere that it's ph balanced but not sure what the hell that means.
Thanks in advance.

MikeBit

iTrader: (4)

How do you go about detailing the A-Pillars and whatnot? Too small for the porter cable, no? I've been stuck on this for a while - I don't want to do it by hand because there are swirls everywhere and I need to get rid of them.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

No I would not rate the Lexol products best. I think the Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil would easily be my choice. They provide better cleaning and conditioning power in my opinion. For step by step leather care instructions check out the leather care section of our detailing guide. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

If you want to use a buffer tape up the surrounding trim and use a 4" pad (i.e. Lake Country 4" Pad Kit - 7x pads) and you'll also need the 4" backing plate. The only other option I know of is a hand application. Be cautious polishing this area and take your time. Let me know if you have any other questions.

MikeBit

iTrader: (4)

Ok I applaud myself for finally doing this. But, as I expected, I knew I'd have some difficulties.


I know exactly how to buff out swirls etc etc.... I had no trouble doing my hood. But I started doing the front fenders, and due to their curvature, I'm having an extremely difficult time getting the porter cable to spin properly. It either doesn't spin at all, OR spins too quickly. I have tried to apply different pressures to absolutely no avail. In fact, I had to lighten up completely just to get the porter cable to spin again, but as soon as I applied any sort of downward pressure, it would stop spinning again. I figured I'd try something different, so instead of relying on the spin, I increased my arm speed and kept the pressure down and just made multiple section passes. This did the trick...... however, to my absolute surprise and shock, the orange pad's edge had completely snapped and is no longer usable. I found that the pad's edge had slowly started to deteriorate (chips in the pad along the edges here there, nothing too big) before this happened. Thank God the foam flew off in a direction away from me and my car. But this burned me out so bad because no store nearby sells buffer pads at all, so I had to order new ones online which is ultimately delaying my work.


So.... someone.... PLEASE tell me, how on EARTH do you approach buffing out your fenders (or any curves for that matter... front bumper too!)??? I'm really sad I can't finish it tonight and I have to wait, but hey..... live and learn. This IS the first time I've ever done this and I am no expert whatsoever. Which is why I applaud myself for giving it a try and sticking with it. Please help!!!!!!!!!

J. Dub

iTrader: (18)

Thanks! This helped!

Shermanator

iTrader: (6)

Hi, i have a super black 2005 nissan 350z and have some minor scratches in the paint. I have a porter cable 7424 xp and have used meguiar's swirl x and i can't seem to get all the imperfections out. What are the polishes do you recommend and what pads should i use for them? Also i accidentally got the Poorboy's World Natty's Red Paste Wax for my car and when i use it my car's paint turns cloudy. If i purchase some polishes from you can i return the opened wax? Thanx.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Sounds like overall you are doing a great job, keep up the good work. On curved pieces you have to work much more carefully. I usually slow down the speed, move even slower and make sure I apply pressure to the middle of the buffer pad. If you create too much pressure on an edge you can more easily have a problem. For some areas you also may need to just do a hand application for best results. If you have any other questions please let me know.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

The PC is a huge help but the Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0 is a good product but it's designed with a hand application in mind. It's also a very light cutting polish that won't maximize the PC's potential. I'd highly recommend using a combination of the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 with an Lake Country Orange Light Cutting Pad and follow that up with Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 with a white pad. This combo will far more effectively polish the paint. It should remove the majority of the swirls and reveal a much deeper shine. Follow this up with your favorite sealant or wax. I generally recommend the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger because of how durable and glossy it is. This can be applied with a blue pad or by hand. Let me know if you have any other questions I'd be happy to help!

Chomorro

iTrader: (17)

I have a question .

I went and got my car orbital waxed real quick. Declined the exterior and interior trim or rubber treatment. I have had bad experiences way back when with armor all drying out and cracking my trim pieces. Does this still happen or have the improved the formula?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

If it's a heavy silicone based product it can be very harmful to the long term condition of rubber, plastic and vinyl surfaces. There are still tons of products available locally that will have this same affect and I'm honestly not sure if there are other newer ones out that are safer. This is something you can do very simply on your own though with the right product. If your trim is neglected and really needs to be restored I'd recommend the Poorboy's World Trim Restorer or the Black WOW Black WOW. If you just want some UV protection and a fresher and darker appearance then the 303 Aerospace Protectant or the Optimum (OPT) Protectant Plus. Both of these are totally safe and provide outstanding UV protection. You can use them on your vinyl, rubber and plastic trim both inside and outside. If you have any other questions please let me know.

MikeBit

iTrader: (4)

Finally completed detailing my car. It took me two full days. I put a lot of effort into it, and I'm very pleased with my results. Car looks phenomenal, and I will post pictures soon. I did not get every scratch out. I probably needed a more aggressive polish. I removed all swirls though and this is fantastic in itself, because my car was littered with them. Cutting was my weak point until I finally discovered a much better technique halfway through. Oh, and if ANYONE has oxidized headlights I seriously, so highly recommend Meguire's PlastX.... OMG my headlights look brand spanking new! Little elbow grease, and multiple applications really brought them out. I'm ecstatic!


I do have a question. My yellow pad has lost its firmness. I washed all of my pads with warm water to the best my ability, and all of them dried up well and retained their firmness. My yellow pad is dry and too soft to be considered a cutting pad now. The edges are firm, but the middle is as soft as my green pad. I noticed before I stopped using the yellow pad that it had developed a "crater" in the middle. That is, the pad curved inward and it's still there. Is there any way to restore my yellow pad or am I in need of a new one? Are wool pads any better than foam pads? I want the best cutter possible for my next detail experience especially since my Z is Super Black.

MikeBit

iTrader: (4)

How long do sheepskin wash mitts usually last? I've used mine probably only 6 times and it's falling apart. Leaves hairs everywhere, it's rather annoying. I need a new one. Is there an alternative washing mitt that minimizes swirls besides the sheepskin? I want my car to be swirl free for as long as possible... for that I need microfiber absorbing towels as well.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (27)

Congrats on the detail it sounds like it came out fantastic, I can't wait to see the pics! It sounds like the yellow pad is shot, but I have yet to hear of a similar problem so i can't say for sure. For more cutting power the Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool Pad is a possibility. The cutting power is usually similar to a yellow pad but it should finish down with less haze. Another option if you want the most aggressive polishing power possible with a PC try the Surbuf R Series MicroFingers Buffing Pads. These pads should only be used for very aggressive polishings.

In my experiences the Sheepskin Wash Mitts last on average 5 - 20+ washes. Since it's made from natural materials the variability of the durability is noticeable. Some last more than others it's somewhat of a crap shoot. Additionally they are more sensitive to edges that can rip or pull the fibers out which can start a domino effect of problems. For a more durable yet very gentle option try the Lake Country Blue Grout Sponge. It will last far longer and I love it personally. Let me know if you have any other questions.

BEBO'S ZEE

iTrader: (14)

OK, so Im going to order
-Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger(to use on the car paint) and
-Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant

now I also want to order a shampoo for washing the car, Im stuck between
-Poorboy's World Super Slick & Suds - 32 oz
-Chemical Guys GlossWorkz Paintwork Cleanser - 16 oz
Poorboys is only a few dollars more but you get 2xmore than the chemical guys, however the chemical guys say "Extends the protection of your sealant or wax while enhancing the gloss and depth of your paint". So I assume that I could use this on both the car and wheels once I have used the blackfire and wheel sealant? Would the chemical guys really make the sealant last longer than poorboys? Which of the two would you recommend?


BTW, any kind of my350z discount?