do i need waxing after polishing?
#1
do i need waxing after polishing?
as titled said. do i need waxing after polishing?
I'm trying to purchase Detailed Image's Polsh and Protection Starter kit whic incdlues:
(also i'm getting 7424 starter kit...)
Menzerna Intensive Polish (IP)
Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay Bar
Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax
Menzerna Final Polish II (FPII)
Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe
So the steps are...
1. after washing, clay bar the Z with Poorboy's spray
2. Intensive polish w/ orange pad
3. final polish II w/ white pad
4. paste wax?
am I right? also which part should I focus on? intensive polish or final polish? So when do i use yellow,black, and blue pad?
I'm trying to purchase Detailed Image's Polsh and Protection Starter kit whic incdlues:
(also i'm getting 7424 starter kit...)
Menzerna Intensive Polish (IP)
Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay Bar
Poorboy's World Natty's Blue Paste Wax
Menzerna Final Polish II (FPII)
Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe
So the steps are...
1. after washing, clay bar the Z with Poorboy's spray
2. Intensive polish w/ orange pad
3. final polish II w/ white pad
4. paste wax?
am I right? also which part should I focus on? intensive polish or final polish? So when do i use yellow,black, and blue pad?
#2
Quick answer: It is highly recommended to wax after polishing.
Long answer:
It depends on the severity of imperfections in your paint for polishing, really. Start with a good section that you can see swirls on and use the IP/Orange Pad. If you have good results (pull the car out in the sun if you need better lighting) then continue to do the rest of the car. If you aren't pleased with the results, do it over and apply a bit more pressure and work the polish.
Pad colors (my summary):
Yellow Pad - For tough jobs and compounding (or when the Orange pad doesn't cut it).
Orange Pad - Versatile pad for getting out swirls and, I find, good enough for finish polishing (depending on product)
White Pad - Mainly finish polishing
Gray Pad - Finish polishing, applying glazes
Blue Pad - Applying waxes and glazes
My recommendation:
Get a 5.5" backing plate and a few 5.5" Orange pads and White pads. Use the 6.5" backing plate and blue pad to apply glazes. This should get you some results and spend less time getting them.
Your steps are in the right order. Wash-->Clay-->IP/Orange-->FPII/White-->Wax
Spritz your Orange and white pad with some quick detailer (light mist) every so often to help.
Long answer:
It depends on the severity of imperfections in your paint for polishing, really. Start with a good section that you can see swirls on and use the IP/Orange Pad. If you have good results (pull the car out in the sun if you need better lighting) then continue to do the rest of the car. If you aren't pleased with the results, do it over and apply a bit more pressure and work the polish.
Pad colors (my summary):
Yellow Pad - For tough jobs and compounding (or when the Orange pad doesn't cut it).
Orange Pad - Versatile pad for getting out swirls and, I find, good enough for finish polishing (depending on product)
White Pad - Mainly finish polishing
Gray Pad - Finish polishing, applying glazes
Blue Pad - Applying waxes and glazes
My recommendation:
Get a 5.5" backing plate and a few 5.5" Orange pads and White pads. Use the 6.5" backing plate and blue pad to apply glazes. This should get you some results and spend less time getting them.
Your steps are in the right order. Wash-->Clay-->IP/Orange-->FPII/White-->Wax
Spritz your Orange and white pad with some quick detailer (light mist) every so often to help.
#3
That order is fine. You should never have to use yellow(to aggresive) and black and blue are for applying liquid waxes, sealants, or glazes.
You should focus on all steps. lol
Waxing is for protecting that new shine you just made from the elements.
You should focus on all steps. lol
Waxing is for protecting that new shine you just made from the elements.
#4
Thank you in advance for your support of Detailed Image, it's much appreciated. If you get the Polish and Protection Starter Kit don't forger it comes with a sealant (Poorboy's World EX-P) and wax (Natty's Blue Wax). The correct order to apply the products is wash, dry, clay bar, most aggressive polish to least aggressive polish (i.e. IP then FPII), sealant and finally wax. Polishing helps correct the surface and leaves no protection on the paint so you definitely need to use the sealant and/or wax for protection.
Here are the pads you can use:
clay bar and lube applied by hand
Menzerna IP - orange pad
Menzerna FPII - white pad
Poorboy's World EX-P - blue pad
Poorboy's World Natty's Blue - hand applied
All the steps are really important. You'll probably need to spend the most time using the clay bar and polishing for best results. The clay bar is a little tedious, especially the first time. Polishes require more passes with the buffer so it takes longer. The sealant applies much quicker and the wax is fairly quick as well. I hand remove all of these products with clean microfiber towels (ie DI All Purpose Microfiber Towels). I usually use about 2x - 3x for each step in the process.
Don't forget to use your forum discount code (10off350Z) on any of the individual products. It does not apply to buffers, kits, sale items, etc. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Greg @ Detailed Image
Here are the pads you can use:
clay bar and lube applied by hand
Menzerna IP - orange pad
Menzerna FPII - white pad
Poorboy's World EX-P - blue pad
Poorboy's World Natty's Blue - hand applied
All the steps are really important. You'll probably need to spend the most time using the clay bar and polishing for best results. The clay bar is a little tedious, especially the first time. Polishes require more passes with the buffer so it takes longer. The sealant applies much quicker and the wax is fairly quick as well. I hand remove all of these products with clean microfiber towels (ie DI All Purpose Microfiber Towels). I usually use about 2x - 3x for each step in the process.
Don't forget to use your forum discount code (10off350Z) on any of the individual products. It does not apply to buffers, kits, sale items, etc. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Greg @ Detailed Image
#5
I agree with the before mentioned. I followed the advice using the foam pads on my flex vrg 3410. I did however, finish by using Zaino. It's unique polymer blend allows for extended protection (up to 6 months) and stays glossy, even after multiple washes.
#6
Thanx for the replies!
I can't wait for my purchase... but one more question.
How many orange and white pads need for one car? one or two? because I'm doing my car and friend's car as well. (Z and slk55)
Also, what kind of chemical should i use to remove, like a gum on the paint? I've tried using goo gone but it didn't work.
thanx in advance
I can't wait for my purchase... but one more question.
How many orange and white pads need for one car? one or two? because I'm doing my car and friend's car as well. (Z and slk55)
Also, what kind of chemical should i use to remove, like a gum on the paint? I've tried using goo gone but it didn't work.
thanx in advance
Last edited by enuff4life; 06-10-2009 at 06:34 AM.
#7
You can do it with one but you'll spend some time cleaning that pad once it's caked up.
You'd probably be good with two or three orange and white pads.
To remove tar and gum from the body panels, I prefer to use WD40 and some elbow grease. The PC7424, orange pad, and IP might/should be able to remove the gum also.
You'd probably be good with two or three orange and white pads.
To remove tar and gum from the body panels, I prefer to use WD40 and some elbow grease. The PC7424, orange pad, and IP might/should be able to remove the gum also.
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#8
One pad can be enough but I generally recommend 2+ for the polishing steps. It helps work in the polishes better if you switch pads halfway through. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Greg @ Detailed Image
Greg @ Detailed Image
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