Drag set up advice needed for my Z
11-23-2011, 12:32 PM
#141
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I dont get it
Well so much for accuracy from other sources???
At the end of the day they are the same size and I hope I dont break them at the strip....
Other than that there doesnt seem to be any difference in the offsets as mine say 50 on them ....
Still want a set of wheels that fit over the Brembos...If any of u r lucky enough to find a set of Weld Draglite XP's in 16x8 5.50 BS ur doing good cause that is all so far that fits....
Well so much for accuracy from other sources???
At the end of the day they are the same size and I hope I dont break them at the strip....
Other than that there doesnt seem to be any difference in the offsets as mine say 50 on them ....
Still want a set of wheels that fit over the Brembos...If any of u r lucky enough to find a set of Weld Draglite XP's in 16x8 5.50 BS ur doing good cause that is all so far that fits....
..BTW, DId you change you studs to longer ones?
Last edited by ffwturboZ; 11-23-2011 at 12:39 PM.
11-23-2011, 12:48 PM
#142
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I also gotta get rid of the drag radials n get the et streets or a full slick.. This **** is brutal on axles..
I didn't swap out the studs yet but plan to jus haven't looked around where to find them?
I might run thicker spacers but don't like that idea.....
Last edited by 350zion; 11-23-2011 at 12:50 PM.
11-23-2011, 04:52 PM
#143
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I'm married to mine until I pull the Brembos off or some one finds me a real drag wheel....
I also gotta get rid of the drag radials n get the et streets or a full slick.. This **** is brutal on axles..
I didn't swap out the studs yet but plan to jus haven't looked around where to find them?
I might run thicker spacers but don't like that idea.....
I also gotta get rid of the drag radials n get the et streets or a full slick.. This **** is brutal on axles..
I didn't swap out the studs yet but plan to jus haven't looked around where to find them?
I might run thicker spacers but don't like that idea.....
11-23-2011, 05:20 PM
#144
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I used the stock studs with regular acorn style nuts with a 5 mm spacer but anything bigger than 5 mm I would change the studs... There is still plenty of bite but u kno its never over kill wen tryin to keep ur wheels on ur car!
11-26-2011, 02:50 PM
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11-27-2011, 11:32 AM
#146
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Well, went out to the track last night for the first time on the slicks and it sucked
... I did a pretty good burn out and seemed to hook good after letting of the brake and letting the car finish spinning to up to the line. The car took a decent squat..pretty cool... Got the car lined up and lauched the car with a little preload.. My 60 were 2.0 and 8.2 at 90 MPH.. I felt the tires give some but overall not a good launch... The track was poorly preped and there was breakage after breakage making it worse.. So I only made one pass... I hope to get back out on friday night and find a good 60 feet.. Had a video but my son deleted it by accident 
... I did a pretty good burn out and seemed to hook good after letting of the brake and letting the car finish spinning to up to the line. The car took a decent squat..pretty cool... Got the car lined up and lauched the car with a little preload.. My 60 were 2.0 and 8.2 at 90 MPH.. I felt the tires give some but overall not a good launch... The track was poorly preped and there was breakage after breakage making it worse.. So I only made one pass... I hope to get back out on friday night and find a good 60 feet.. Had a video but my son deleted it by accident
11-27-2011, 07:19 PM
#147
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Were your slicks new? If so, your very first time out should start with a very long burnout. Usually, you can still hook with slicks or ET Streets even without a decent track prep. What's your camber/toe set to, btw?
11-29-2011, 03:51 AM
#149
Sounds like you were hooking up fine but just did a weak launch 
. I usually launch around 4.5k rpm, clutch fully engaged in first 10 feet and rpms drop to around 3k. Squeeze the throttle all the way down right when the clutch is fully engaged (NOT during engagement or before). The timing is critical, and it happens fast -- and with slicks, you can squeeze the throttle very fast without worry about wheelspin. I am able to get fairly consistent 1.7's using this method, perhaps 1.6's with a higher launch RPM and quicker engagement. It took a couple dozen passes to get to that point even with the slicks... I was stuck in 1.8-1.9 for a while.
. I usually launch around 4.5k rpm, clutch fully engaged in first 10 feet and rpms drop to around 3k. Squeeze the throttle all the way down right when the clutch is fully engaged (NOT during engagement or before). The timing is critical, and it happens fast -- and with slicks, you can squeeze the throttle very fast without worry about wheelspin. I am able to get fairly consistent 1.7's using this method, perhaps 1.6's with a higher launch RPM and quicker engagement. It took a couple dozen passes to get to that point even with the slicks... I was stuck in 1.8-1.9 for a while.
Last edited by djamps; 11-29-2011 at 03:59 AM.
11-29-2011, 06:29 AM
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Sounds like you were hooking up fine but just did a weak launch . I usually launch around 4.5k rpm, clutch fully engaged in first 10 feet and rpms drop to around 3k. Squeeze the throttle all the way down right when the clutch is fully engaged (NOT during engagement or before). The timing is critical, and it happens fast -- and with slicks, you can squeeze the throttle very fast without worry about wheelspin. I am able to get fairly consistent 1.7's using this method, perhaps 1.6's with a higher launch RPM and quicker engagement. It took a couple dozen passes to get to that point even with the slicks... I was stuck in 1.8-1.9 for a while.
. I usually launch around 4.5k rpm, clutch fully engaged in first 10 feet and rpms drop to around 3k. Squeeze the throttle all the way down right when the clutch is fully engaged (NOT during engagement or before). The timing is critical, and it happens fast -- and with slicks, you can squeeze the throttle very fast without worry about wheelspin. I am able to get fairly consistent 1.7's using this method, perhaps 1.6's with a higher launch RPM and quicker engagement. It took a couple dozen passes to get to that point even with the slicks... I was stuck in 1.8-1.9 for a while.
Defenetly will try this.. This is my first time ever, running slicks. I always ran DR's on my cars. I guess I was a being a little conservative with the launch. I did get higher traps with the taller tire. I also was have issues with the brakes while the clutch was engaged while using the taller tire. Once I switched to the street wheels it went away... VDC???
11-30-2011, 01:13 PM
#153
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Next spring line locks n 2 step will be all set up.....
O and a set of slicks.... Drag radials are hell on axles with hard launches....
11-30-2011, 08:10 PM
#154
The wear affect on your rear brakes during a good burnout is about the same as a 60 to 0 stop (basically not much). I did have some issues with the rear end moving around but it was improper alignment, no longer an issue. So I never really understood the need for line locks on something other than an all out drag machine.
And the ECU pin switch won't give any issues if done properly. In fact, I leave the switch 'off' at all times now. It has zero affect on day to day driving... the sole purpose of that wire going into the ECU is so brake wins in brake vs go pedal.
I would recommend against attempting to completely defeat the VDC system. Even when it's 'off', it could still save you from slamming against the wall that one day you hit a patch of oil on the track -- the yaw sensors are always active to some degree; eliminating the yaw correction system at the 1/4 track by completely defeating VDC is not a smart move. You don't want wheel spin to cut throttle... so just hit the button. But you WANT yaw correction to help you stay straight.
One more note -- pulling the brake fuse will kill ABS, which means you no longer have yaw correction which relies on the ABS.
And the ECU pin switch won't give any issues if done properly. In fact, I leave the switch 'off' at all times now. It has zero affect on day to day driving... the sole purpose of that wire going into the ECU is so brake wins in brake vs go pedal.
I would recommend against attempting to completely defeat the VDC system. Even when it's 'off', it could still save you from slamming against the wall that one day you hit a patch of oil on the track -- the yaw sensors are always active to some degree; eliminating the yaw correction system at the 1/4 track by completely defeating VDC is not a smart move. You don't want wheel spin to cut throttle... so just hit the button. But you WANT yaw correction to help you stay straight.
One more note -- pulling the brake fuse will kill ABS, which means you no longer have yaw correction which relies on the ABS.
Last edited by djamps; 11-30-2011 at 08:21 PM.
12-05-2011, 07:00 AM
#155
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The wear affect on your rear brakes during a good burnout is about the same as a 60 to 0 stop (basically not much). I did have some issues with the rear end moving around but it was improper alignment, no longer an issue. So I never really understood the need for line locks on something other than an all out drag machine.
And the ECU pin switch won't give any issues if done properly. In fact, I leave the switch 'off' at all times now. It has zero affect on day to day driving... the sole purpose of that wire going into the ECU is so brake wins in brake vs go pedal.
I would recommend against attempting to completely defeat the VDC system. Even when it's 'off', it could still save you from slamming against the wall that one day you hit a patch of oil on the track -- the yaw sensors are always active to some degree; eliminating the yaw correction system at the 1/4 track by completely defeating VDC is not a smart move. You don't want wheel spin to cut throttle... so just hit the button. But you WANT yaw correction to help you stay straight.
One more note -- pulling the brake fuse will kill ABS, which means you no longer have yaw correction which relies on the ABS.
And the ECU pin switch won't give any issues if done properly. In fact, I leave the switch 'off' at all times now. It has zero affect on day to day driving... the sole purpose of that wire going into the ECU is so brake wins in brake vs go pedal.
I would recommend against attempting to completely defeat the VDC system. Even when it's 'off', it could still save you from slamming against the wall that one day you hit a patch of oil on the track -- the yaw sensors are always active to some degree; eliminating the yaw correction system at the 1/4 track by completely defeating VDC is not a smart move. You don't want wheel spin to cut throttle... so just hit the button. But you WANT yaw correction to help you stay straight.
One more note -- pulling the brake fuse will kill ABS, which means you no longer have yaw correction which relies on the ABS.
BTW, I have not been able to get good 60ft times. I just ran yesterday and the best 60ft was 1.9 with consistent 2.0 on the slicks. It seems like I need to launch harder to get the good 60ft, but I dont want to put that kind of strain on the axles.. With the shorter DR's M/T 26x10x16 I was runinning 1.8 and lower 60ft with just natural low end torque and no clutch dump (Best or 1.77). I do get one MPH higher on trap but my ET's are suffering quite a bit. Im considering going back to the 26in tire..
Last edited by ffwturboZ; 12-05-2011 at 07:03 AM.
12-13-2011, 01:48 PM
#156
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My crapy launch (2.0 60ft) with the 28" Hoosier slicks,,, I guess I need to step it up some..:O)
http://youtu.be/34eTcCJY1Ao
http://youtu.be/34eTcCJY1Ao
Last edited by ffwturboZ; 12-13-2011 at 01:51 PM.
12-13-2011, 01:55 PM
#157
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Meh work on it... No matter Wat it has to be cool to have an 1/8 close to ur home thats open year round.. Plenty of practice runs....
Ill be back in the seat in March hopefully opening day.. New motor, turbo , tires etc.....
Ill be back in the seat in March hopefully opening day.. New motor, turbo , tires etc.....
12-13-2011, 02:19 PM
#159
Im not looking to run 1/4 mile much. I have an 1/8th track next to my house so it is more convenient for me to set up for that. I do need to check my allignment tho... As far as the brake fuse for the burn out, it is a better choice to do the switch for the brake fuse and leave the VDC alone and just turn it off witht the OEM switch?
You simply cut the wire going into the ECM or do like I did and wire up a switch. I leave the switch in the 'open' position 24.7 anyways. The sole purpose of the wire going into the ECM is for the brake override otherwise known as 'brake always wins' function. This mod in no way affects VDC, brakelights or anything else. Only the ability to do burnouts.
BTW, I have not been able to get good 60ft times. I just ran yesterday and the best 60ft was 1.9 with consistent 2.0 on the slicks. It seems like I need to launch harder to get the good 60ft, but I dont want to put that kind of strain on the axles.. With the shorter DR's M/T 26x10x16 I was runinning 1.8 and lower 60ft with just natural low end torque and no clutch dump (Best or 1.77). I do get one MPH higher on trap but my ET's are suffering quite a bit. Im considering going back to the 26in tire..
Also stay away from DR's if you care about your axles. Bias plys are far more forgiving on hard launches. I've gotten almost a dozen 1.6-1.7's and 50+ passes with my ET Streets and axles are fine. MT themselves actually recommend against DR's on manual cars.
Last edited by djamps; 12-13-2011 at 02:23 PM.