It looks like Im going to be sticking with mine for ever...or till they crack or break. ..

BTW, DId you change you studs to longer ones?

 

I'm married to mine until I pull the Brembos off or some one finds me a real drag wheel....

I also gotta get rid of the drag radials n get the et streets or a full slick.. This **** is brutal on axles..

I didn't swap out the studs yet but plan to jus haven't looked around where to find them?

I might run thicker spacers but don't like that idea.....

 

Ahh, I didnt think the stock studs would be long enough with the 5mm spacer..good to know..In any case I will probably replace them later with ARP's longer studs.. But till then they will have to hold.

 

I used the stock studs with regular acorn style nuts with a 5 mm spacer but anything bigger than 5 mm I would change the studs... There is still plenty of bite but u kno its never over kill wen tryin to keep ur wheels on ur car!

 

I know what your saying..I did order the longer studs and picked up 7.45mm spacers (the only one they had). I kept palying with the wheels and found out that they where rubbing on the screw that holds the inner splash guards one one side and the gas tube cover on the other.. That was what it was making the noise. Got them filed down and removed the cover. As far as the rubbing in the inside of the wheel... its no longer rubbing, I guess it scrapped what was left and now it runs good. Im going to be running it tonight... we shall see. Hopfully I come back home in one piece....

 

Well, went out to the track last night for the first time on the slicks and it sucked... I did a pretty good burn out and seemed to hook good after letting of the brake and letting the car finish spinning to up to the line. The car took a decent squat..pretty cool... Got the car lined up and lauched the car with a little preload.. My 60 were 2.0 and 8.2 at 90 MPH.. I felt the tires give some but overall not a good launch... The track was poorly preped and there was breakage after breakage making it worse.. So I only made one pass... I hope to get back out on friday night and find a good 60 feet.. Had a video but my son deleted it by accident

 

Were your slicks new? If so, your very first time out should start with a very long burnout. Usually, you can still hook with slicks or ET Streets even without a decent track prep. What's your camber/toe set to, btw?

 

I got the slicks used with only few passes on them. Not sure where the camber is at but will look into it. The tires where at 18PSI..

 

Sounds like you were hooking up fine but just did a weak launch . I usually launch around 4.5k rpm, clutch fully engaged in first 10 feet and rpms drop to around 3k. Squeeze the throttle all the way down right when the clutch is fully engaged (NOT during engagement or before). The timing is critical, and it happens fast -- and with slicks, you can squeeze the throttle very fast without worry about wheelspin. I am able to get fairly consistent 1.7's using this method, perhaps 1.6's with a higher launch RPM and quicker engagement. It took a couple dozen passes to get to that point even with the slicks... I was stuck in 1.8-1.9 for a while.

 

Defenetly will try this.. This is my first time ever, running slicks. I always ran DR's on my cars. I guess I was a being a little conservative with the launch. I did get higher traps with the taller tire. I also was have issues with the brakes while the clutch was engaged while using the taller tire. Once I switched to the street wheels it went away... VDC???

 

Make sure VDC is off at the track. The different wheel/tire size offset will cause issues with it on.

 

I do turn it off and also pull the brake fuse for burn outs. Im going to be installing a switch for the brake fuse and debating on totaly dissabling the VDC..

 

I'm doing line locks which I already purchased but the brake fuse thing works flawless.. I was afraid to do the switch thing because I read PPL had issues or something but Watever, I did the fuse method towards the end of this season no issues...

Next spring line locks n 2 step will be all set up.....

O and a set of slicks.... Drag radials are hell on axles with hard launches....

 

The wear affect on your rear brakes during a good burnout is about the same as a 60 to 0 stop (basically not much). I did have some issues with the rear end moving around but it was improper alignment, no longer an issue. So I never really understood the need for line locks on something other than an all out drag machine.

And the ECU pin switch won't give any issues if done properly. In fact, I leave the switch 'off' at all times now. It has zero affect on day to day driving... the sole purpose of that wire going into the ECU is so brake wins in brake vs go pedal.

I would recommend against attempting to completely defeat the VDC system. Even when it's 'off', it could still save you from slamming against the wall that one day you hit a patch of oil on the track -- the yaw sensors are always active to some degree; eliminating the yaw correction system at the 1/4 track by completely defeating VDC is not a smart move. You don't want wheel spin to cut throttle... so just hit the button. But you WANT yaw correction to help you stay straight.

One more note -- pulling the brake fuse will kill ABS, which means you no longer have yaw correction which relies on the ABS.

 

Im not looking to run 1/4 mile much. I have an 1/8th track next to my house so it is more convenient for me to set up for that. I do need to check my allignment tho... As far as the brake fuse for the burn out, it is a better choice to do the switch for the brake fuse and leave the VDC alone and just turn it off witht the OEM switch?

BTW, I have not been able to get good 60ft times. I just ran yesterday and the best 60ft was 1.9 with consistent 2.0 on the slicks. It seems like I need to launch harder to get the good 60ft, but I dont want to put that kind of strain on the axles.. With the shorter DR's M/T 26x10x16 I was runinning 1.8 and lower 60ft with just natural low end torque and no clutch dump (Best or 1.77). I do get one MPH higher on trap but my ET's are suffering quite a bit. Im considering going back to the 26in tire..

 

My crapy launch (2.0 60ft) with the 28" Hoosier slicks,,, I guess I need to step it up some..:O)

http://youtu.be/34eTcCJY1Ao

 

Meh work on it... No matter Wat it has to be cool to have an 1/8 close to ur home thats open year round.. Plenty of practice runs....

Ill be back in the seat in March hopefully opening day.. New motor, turbo , tires etc.....

 

IMO a 28" tire is way too much for your power level.

 

You don't hook a switch up to the brake fuse. The point of the switch is to defeat the brake override without affecting VDC or your tail lights, so the fuse would need to be in-tact.

You simply cut the wire going into the ECM or do like I did and wire up a switch. I leave the switch in the 'open' position 24.7 anyways. The sole purpose of the wire going into the ECM is for the brake override otherwise known as 'brake always wins' function. This mod in no way affects VDC, brakelights or anything else. Only the ability to do burnouts.

Like mike said 28" is a bit tall. You need to heat them up alot more too. 1st gear barely does anything for me.

Also stay away from DR's if you care about your axles. Bias plys are far more forgiving on hard launches. I've gotten almost a dozen 1.6-1.7's and 50+ passes with my ET Streets and axles are fine. MT themselves actually recommend against DR's on manual cars.

 

I agree the 28" tire may be to tall for my set up, but not because of my power level...just my driving choice and how far Im willing to push the car.