Drifting 101 - a guide/insight to drifting the z
06-09-2010, 12:49 PM
#81
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its the one with the inlet and outlet
it also came with 2 2ft brake lines that connect to the lever.
so im guessing i tee off one line and sent those to the rear lines
i dont care about ABS so when i tee off the other line wheres the easiest place for me to put those?
also i know i need tee fittings for the brake lines to split. but what type of adapter should i use to tap into/install the aftermarket lines into the actual brake lines?
also any clue about how many ft of brake line should i order?
in the end you will be tossing the 46313 unit away.
search for Nackers blog...he has a link of how he did it, but he cut the lines as he didnt source a M10x1.0 tee......
like i mentioned - get the tee's from the back of a nissan 240sx.....i got mine at the junk yard...
240sx S13 tee at rear passenger side:
0562f264.jpg?t=1276116572
as for length determination
Get some bailing wire and pre-route your lines as to how you wanna send them, and then from there measure them.....with bailing wire you can pre-route and simply hand bend with a cheap brake line hand bender bench side using the bailing wire as a template/guide..
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 06-09-2010 at 12:51 PM.
06-09-2010, 12:54 PM
#82
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Once again, "if you do this" you must...absolutely must disconnect your ABS plug
if not this will happen to you:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...vin+disconnect
-J
if not this will happen to you:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...vin+disconnect
-J
06-09-2010, 02:23 PM
#83
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^^ To answer your question,
THEY break! simple as that! The Z diff CAN be welded. But if you track/drift your car, you will break it..........
many have done this, all have failed.
now, if you dont track your car, some have had them last a reasonable amount of time.......but soon break....
on a 240 its another story! those diffs are strong as rocks! If i owned a 240 i would weld it for sure!
-J
THEY break! simple as that! The Z diff CAN be welded. But if you track/drift your car, you will break it..........
many have done this, all have failed.
now, if you dont track your car, some have had them last a reasonable amount of time.......but soon break....
on a 240 its another story! those diffs are strong as rocks! If i owned a 240 i would weld it for sure!
-J
08-17-2010, 05:27 PM
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Jason,
It's time for me to buy more used tires. My Z just ate up 1 pair over the weekend. I think you mentioned to not get staggard tires, right? Is 245 all around ok?
It's time for me to buy more used tires. My Z just ate up 1 pair over the weekend. I think you mentioned to not get staggard tires, right? Is 245 all around ok?
Last edited by Bigalow; 08-18-2010 at 02:52 AM.
08-18-2010, 03:17 AM
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^ I agree......NA, I have found 245/45/diameter tires to be overall my favorite set up on 9 inch wide rims.
aside from Craigslist you may wanna try mom and pop tire shops and even hit up places like sears, ntb, discount tire, etc...........shops that sell NEW tires, but must throw the used ones away in the recycle bin....those situations if you find the right guy to ask you can slip him 10 bucks a tire and pull tires from the recycle storage room........
-J
aside from Craigslist you may wanna try mom and pop tire shops and even hit up places like sears, ntb, discount tire, etc...........shops that sell NEW tires, but must throw the used ones away in the recycle bin....those situations if you find the right guy to ask you can slip him 10 bucks a tire and pull tires from the recycle storage room........
-J
08-18-2010, 03:24 AM
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^ I agree......NA, I have found 245/45/diameter tires to be overall my favorite set up on 9 inch wide rims.
aside from Craigslist you may wanna try mom and pop tire shops and even hit up places like sears, ntb, discount tire, etc...........shops that sell NEW tires, but must throw the used ones away in the recycle bin....those situations if you find the right guy to ask you can slip him 10 bucks a tire and pull tires from the recycle storage room........
-J
aside from Craigslist you may wanna try mom and pop tire shops and even hit up places like sears, ntb, discount tire, etc...........shops that sell NEW tires, but must throw the used ones away in the recycle bin....those situations if you find the right guy to ask you can slip him 10 bucks a tire and pull tires from the recycle storage room........
-J
I have a set of 8.5 wheels, 8/8.5 wheels, and 8.5/9.5 wheels. I should be set right?
08-18-2010, 03:34 AM
#90
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up front, 245 would be fine, but if your spinning and making smoke, then your loosing your fwd momentum with out having enough tire...
thats ok though, cause I find 255, 265 and even larger at tire shops as well all the time...no real difference in price, just negotiating skills on quantity as i usually buy 4 at a time....
and sell off the 8/8.5 wheel set.....too skinny for sure....for that power, all my wheels would be 9/9.5 at a min......
-J
08-24-2010, 10:32 AM
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good stuff...helpd alot lol so i do have one question... as far as i seen its mostly about suspension and tires and such. but wat advice could you spill about engine mods. Like which brand/setup would you suggest to gear my Z towards a drift monster. ty for any suggestion =]
08-24-2010, 11:16 AM
#92
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good stuff...helpd alot lol so i do have one question... as far as i seen its mostly about suspension and tires and such. but wat advice could you spill about engine mods. Like which brand/setup would you suggest to gear my Z towards a drift monster. ty for any suggestion =]
power steering cooler (#6 listed) and 2 way clutch lsd (#2 listed).........thats it, but of course you can do more as you choose, but an NA 350z with those mods is fine....
The LSD is self explanatory....done and done..
the power steering cooler - somewhat depends on your climate - your in Texas like me, so trust me you WILL NEED IT.
Next would be clutch and flywheel (#3 listed)........well, clutch really, flywheel isn't needed, but of course most replace it at the same time...etc...
Start there, as you see fit, sure you can add plenum spacers, oil coolers, etc, etc, etc...
-J
08-24-2010, 11:17 AM
#93
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I would like to update and add to this thread that Solid diff bushings are definitely a great addition....
really really helps the cars rear end.......
-J
really really helps the cars rear end.......
-J
08-24-2010, 04:35 PM
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yea i read all that lol i mean like internals...i know everyone says its enough to jus have a NA 350 but i want more pwr =] so i was jus asking if any suggestions for cams and all the internals. The goal is to get a single T3 setup and i am baseing my upgrade purchases off of that idea so i cn put it all together when i get the turbo kit lol
srry for all the ?... still new to the game and nt much free atm =]
srry for all the ?... still new to the game and nt much free atm =]
08-24-2010, 05:10 PM
#95
Jason, its funny that you mentioned that cause i was just going to post that today in here hahah. Solid bushings do make a difference so i have heard from a friend that has them and suggested i should get them. hopefully when next drift season comes i got them on so i can see the difference they make
10-27-2010, 09:10 AM
#97
IIRC, the ksport is a inline unit? so how do you plan on connecting it is more of what im asking.......Can you post pics of what exactly K sport sent you???
I'm guessing its a piston with an inlet and outlet? what are those sizes?? M10x1.0 brake line fittings...
the easiest way is to plumb it to the passenger side wheel well at an existing block under the wheel well.... see my post #34 for these two pics:
let me assure you though, you will have NO working ABS, and you will have to disconnect abs...lights will be on, on your dash if you remove/disconnect it..
if you do it this way..... 1.) dose it effect your brake bias and
2.)would you always have to have your abs disconnected or only when you planned on using the ebrake?
I'm guessing its a piston with an inlet and outlet? what are those sizes?? M10x1.0 brake line fittings...
the easiest way is to plumb it to the passenger side wheel well at an existing block under the wheel well.... see my post #34 for these two pics:
let me assure you though, you will have NO working ABS, and you will have to disconnect abs...lights will be on, on your dash if you remove/disconnect it..
if you do it this way..... 1.) dose it effect your brake bias and
2.)would you always have to have your abs disconnected or only when you planned on using the ebrake?
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 10-27-2010 at 09:12 AM.
10-27-2010, 09:25 AM
#98
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Okay,
A stock 350z
has 4 individual brake lines coming out of the ABS block.
This thing: - located under the brake cover under the hood -
(ignore the text for now)
because it has 4 individual brake lines, which are actuated by ABS if the computer detects slip, etc it does what is called "cross manipulation braking"....its a safety feature built into most newer cars.....
INLINE HYDRO EBRAKE-
Any common single line-in, single line-out hydro ebrake handle (like the Ksport you bought) means you NOW have to use tee fittings to connect the two OEM lines (AT the 46313 connector) together down to a single line INTO the ksport, then you need to get a single line OUT of the ksport back to the lines (AT the 46313 connector) going to the rear calipers....
so that you can pull the handle and BOTH rear wheels lock up...
WITH THE LINES NO LONGER SEPARATE AND DEDICATED LINES FROM THE ABS BLOCK - YOU NO LONGER HAVE ABS.
SOOO....this means you must ALWAYS unplug this grey plug:
(now you must do as the text says - always)
Read here where my friend sold his Z that was set up like this to a guy who didn't know any better and reconnected his abs plug!!!
read my post #12:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...?highlight=abs
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 10-27-2010 at 09:27 AM.
10-27-2010, 09:33 AM
#99
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EDIT 11/12/10:
THIS IS AN "IN-LINE" SET UP!!!
-J
Nackers did exactly what you need here:
https://my350z.com/forum/7339286-post9.html
Remove the passenger wheel well liner and access the existing fitting:
here:
Notice here how at 46313 connection he used the Tee fittings im talking about to merge to one line into your Ksport and one line back to the 46313 bottom two lines with another tee:
He (Nackers) however bought adapters and a hardline flare tool because he didnt have the proper metric fittings.
To make it easier, purchase from autozone "asian" hardlines with preinstalled M10x1.0 fittings and then purchase M10x1.0 tee fittings online.
Hint: The bottom left passenger rear of a Nissan 240 has a tee fitting that anyone can get at a local junk yard easy thats M10x1.0
-J
THIS IS AN "IN-LINE" SET UP!!!
-J
Nackers did exactly what you need here:
https://my350z.com/forum/7339286-post9.html
Remove the passenger wheel well liner and access the existing fitting:
here:
Notice here how at 46313 connection he used the Tee fittings im talking about to merge to one line into your Ksport and one line back to the 46313 bottom two lines with another tee:
He (Nackers) however bought adapters and a hardline flare tool because he didnt have the proper metric fittings.
To make it easier, purchase from autozone "asian" hardlines with preinstalled M10x1.0 fittings and then purchase M10x1.0 tee fittings online.
Hint: The bottom left passenger rear of a Nissan 240 has a tee fitting that anyone can get at a local junk yard easy thats M10x1.0
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 11-12-2010 at 04:21 AM.
12-12-2010, 05:04 PM
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Tein Tie Rods
I got a question about the Tein tie rods and tie rod ends.
I saw on some sites claiming it wont match factory if you just buy inners....well thats not true because I only bought inner and had no problems whatsoever
But my question is this, did anyone measure the factory vs tein outer tie rod ends? To see if they actually need to be changed to gain anything? Or are they just a stronger replacement? The inners definitely have a spacer and a slightly longer bolt, but thats about it, curious if the outers are at all different or are worth getting or matter at all.
-Hooman
I saw on some sites claiming it wont match factory if you just buy inners....well thats not true because I only bought inner and had no problems whatsoever
But my question is this, did anyone measure the factory vs tein outer tie rod ends? To see if they actually need to be changed to gain anything? Or are they just a stronger replacement? The inners definitely have a spacer and a slightly longer bolt, but thats about it, curious if the outers are at all different or are worth getting or matter at all.
-Hooman