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Drifting 101 - a guide/insight to drifting the z

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Old 12-12-2010 | 06:17 PM
  #101  
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Also, to get some opinions from people who drift regularly, recommended Diffs?

I am currently leaning towards the OS Giken

or possibly a Cusco, not sure RS or MZ? I am assuming MZ as it has higher initial Torque? Better for drifting?

I don't care about noise or street driving, I care what performs the best at the drift track, and especially on the higher speed drifts, seen lots of good reviews about Giken, but price is high....
Old 12-13-2010 | 05:14 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by HoomanR
I got a question about the Tein tie rods and tie rod ends.

I saw on some sites claiming it wont match factory if you just buy inners....well thats not true because I only bought inner and had no problems whatsoever

But my question is this, did anyone measure the factory vs tein outer tie rod ends? To see if they actually need to be changed to gain anything? Or are they just a stronger replacement? The inners definitely have a spacer and a slightly longer bolt, but thats about it, curious if the outers are at all different or are worth getting or matter at all.

-Hooman
as mentioned in the first two post...they are both identical except like you mentioned, the inners have about 3 threads longer on the threaded portion and use a spacer........the added threads are minimal compared to the spacer thickness.....about 3 threads...

no where are they said to be made of any other type of material that is stronger? so not sure on that...
-J
Old 12-13-2010 | 05:16 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by HoomanR
Also, to get some opinions from people who drift regularly, recommended Diffs?

I am currently leaning towards the OS Giken

or possibly a Cusco, not sure RS or MZ? I am assuming MZ as it has higher initial Torque? Better for drifting?

I don't care about noise or street driving, I care what performs the best at the drift track, and especially on the higher speed drifts, seen lots of good reviews about Giken, but price is high....
the os giken, though still a clutch diff isn't probably idea.....
you would be better off with a more aggressive cusco for the characteristics your asking for, pure drift, no street...

i use a nismo and its amazing....so confidence inspiring.........a clutch LSD should one of the FIRST dammn thing you buy!!! you will love it for drift..

-J
Old 12-13-2010 | 07:40 AM
  #104  
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Why OS Giken not ideal?

http://www.osgiken.net/testimony.html


I know thats from their site but I thought it was a better overall diff to handle abuse etc bc of more clutch discs etc?

I wonder what the Formula D drivers use?
Old 01-14-2011 | 03:00 PM
  #105  
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question on tie rods and steering stops for an 08, since the rack is different has any1 come up with a solution for getting a bit more out of them? i knew that other guy a few pages back swapped his steering rack but wasnt sure if he followed through or what happened with that
Old 01-19-2011 | 06:11 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by DEMoLITIoN
The 350Z,G35,and S13/4 all use an R200 diff. It is very safe to weld and will withstand abuse. My G35 weldy is working great. You need a great amount of torque before you blow it up. It also depends on who welds it.

welded diff block:



welded spider gears:

I REALLY wanna weld my open diff and was wandering where these done with MIG or TIG? And what would you use to clean all the gear oil out with for a clean weld? Brake cleaner?
Old 01-24-2011 | 03:18 PM
  #107  
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Has anyone done this dose it work? Any tips? Thanks

Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
OKAY - I THINK I GOT IT!

THIS SET UP SHOULD NOT MESS WITH ABS?

This should work....the remote master cylinders and input from the hydro ebrake handle will provide the braking power to rears!

it will also force fluid back toward the abs unit, but that should be one way valved? shouldn't affect anything right???? --- thats about my only question???


DIAGRAM: 1ST PIC ATTACHED BELOW


WILWOOD TANDEM MASTER CYLINDER - P/N 260-7563: 2ND PIC ATTACHED BELOW


WILWOOD PEDAL ASSEMBLY - P/N 340-1290 3RD PIC ATTACHED BELOW
In this pic you can see where i super imposed (always wanted to do that....lol) the tandem master cylinder and showed my baller 8 ball handle to show how it would be a PULL instead of a push style!??

8 ball:



- J
Old 01-26-2011 | 12:49 PM
  #108  
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^ Yes its been done.....not by me, but a while back a few guys did it and pm'd me...

both said its a pain to bleed...it does work one way valved and worked..

I didn't do it for my car, im currently working on 2nd caliper ebrake bracket...

-J
Old 01-29-2011 | 11:24 AM
  #109  
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Installed OS Giken 2-Way Super Lock today, first event Feb 27th,
Will post my thoughts/feelings about it shortly thereafter. I am excited.
Old 01-31-2011 | 11:07 AM
  #110  
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congrats...

looking forward to your review...

-J
Old 02-04-2011 | 11:14 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
^ Yes its been done.....not by me, but a while back a few guys did it and pm'd me...

both said its a pain to bleed...it does work one way valved and worked..

I didn't do it for my car, im currently working on 2nd caliper ebrake bracket...

-J
When they did it did they one way valve it or it is valved already? Thanks
Old 02-13-2011 | 12:27 PM
  #112  
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I don't see how this works, if you one way valve it when you pull the handle you'll lock the tears with no way to relieve pressure and your brakes would stay locked up and if there's no valve pressing the brakes should blow the lid off and shoot fluid out of the reservoir so am I missing something or what I'm trying to get this figured out so I can do it but there isn't much support for it
Old 02-13-2011 | 04:27 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by HoomanR
Installed OS Giken 2-Way Super Lock today, first event Feb 27th,
Will post my thoughts/feelings about it shortly thereafter. I am excited.
You going to Summit Point on the 27th? Anyway, I use the OS and it's a 1.5way not a 2-way. It's solid and great for starters v.s. the stock viscous. I'll probably get a 100% LSD only if I feel I need it in the future.
Old 02-14-2011 | 10:52 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by nismo_ninja
When they did it did they one way valve it or it is valved already? Thanks
one way valved is a bad choice of words on my part.......see below...

Originally Posted by nismo_ninja
I don't see how this works, if you one way valve it when you pull the handle you'll lock the tears with no way to relieve pressure and your brakes would stay locked up and if there's no valve pressing the brakes should blow the lid off and shoot fluid out of the reservoir so am I missing something or what I'm trying to get this figured out so I can do it but there isn't much support for it
again, one way valved is a bad choice of words....it just needs to not blow the top off the reservoir when the actual oem 4 wheel brake pedal is applied....ie, push past the wilwood master........to those that did this install...they were fine, and it worked well.........said that bleeding was a pain, and they prefered using the motive power bleeder...

-J
Old 02-14-2011 | 10:55 AM
  #115  
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again, retaining abs is moot......most do the nackers method and splice in line at the existing fitting in the passenger side wheel well..


-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 02-14-2011 at 10:57 AM.
Old 02-21-2011 | 05:13 PM
  #116  
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I get what your saying but I was talking with ASD a company that produces some various drift hand brakes and they said a remote reservoir would let the pressure from the brakes blow through into the reservoir and overflow it how do the people you've been in contact with avoid that is my real question thanks

Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
one way valved is a bad choice of words on my part.......see below...



again, one way valved is a bad choice of words....it just needs to not blow the top off the reservoir when the actual oem 4 wheel brake pedal is applied....ie, push past the wilwood master........to those that did this install...they were fine, and it worked well.........said that bleeding was a pain, and they prefered using the motive power bleeder...

-J
Old 03-02-2011 | 07:56 PM
  #117  
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Biaglow: Sorry no it was in Nashville, TN with TN Drift
Are you sure about the 1.5 way diff? I believe you can have it set up either way. I will contact my guy at OS Giken and find out but as far as I understood I thought it was a 2 way(its all over their site that it can be a 2 way or 1.5 way in the testimonials...)


Anyhow....installed the diff.... I love it....
The drift day was hard to gauge a lot of the high speed applications of it bc it rained(wet drifting is a lot of fun, but not as easy to carry speed/angle)

The diff did well and I think with my viscous I would have been all over the place with a wet track. Its got great response and smooth transitions. I did a lot of low speed practicing and I feel like I can control the angle 10 times better than before. Its night and day the difference. I imagine most diffs will do this but from what I feel there is no harshness to this diff at all. I think I agree that a diff is probably the most important upgrade for the drifting z

My clutch is going out and i will be upgrading to an OS Giken clutch soon(trying to decide which one), I will post my thoughts on that soon
Old 03-03-2011 | 08:56 PM
  #118  
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I just talked to OS Giken directly. The Diff does come standard as a 1.5 way diff so you are correct. You can however purchase a new pressure ring that will allow you to change it to a 2-way.
Old 03-18-2011 | 07:49 PM
  #119  
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Question about the tein tie rods. Is there anything I should tell the shop to do in regards to alignment? As long as they count the threads I should be able to obtain the added steering angle right?

Last edited by WhosRich; 03-18-2011 at 08:01 PM.
Old 03-18-2011 | 09:36 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by WhosRich
Question about the tein tie rods. Is there anything I should tell the shop to do in regards to alignment? As long as they count the threads I should be able to obtain the added steering angle right?
they will be fine, ajusting isnt hard on an alignment rack

make sure your put on the spacers and grind down those bump stops a little for moar angle



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