AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Jonathan

Worked on the motor, pretty much done with the dvd other then maybe getting a dyno shot when its finally running.

Royal_T

iTrader: (9)

**Bump**

For update

ATX350

iTrader: (8)

+1

AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, just been really busy. Had a few customer cars that needed some work done. Did a cage on a friends car over the weekend and thats almost done. I did put the motor in the car but still need to make the trans mount. I'll take some pics tomorrow.

AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

I did go to the track last week thursday for some fun and got to watch an s14 run over an arieo atom. That was cool.

AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

Last week went out to streets of willow. Lots of cool cars and cool people. I did get to watch an s14 kinda run over an atom. It was pretty interesting to say the least but I still cant find video of it.



Sorry I havent updated in a little bit. Been getting home real late and been spending more time on customer stuff then my own laitly. I did however get the motor in.



The famous Andy Yen ladies and gentlemen helping out with the turbo.



Wicked 1 on clublexus saw that I needed the stock guage cluster and sent me one. Thank You Wicked 1!! Pulled the insides of it out and made a backing plate out of carbon sheet, then had this tach from one of my old cars and figured why not have the most famous a biggest tach you can get in there. Took a little bit of work triming it out and I still feel fiberglass in my arms. More guages will be added but this is just a taste.



Picked up a new steering wheel from Sparco, and some seat brackets. Mounted the drivers seat and took it back out cause I dont want it to get too dirty just yet. Goes back to K&W Autobody in a couple days. Should have the paint finished and start working on the graphics soon.

AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

In the booth, spraying the frost.



Then clearing the front.



Got the car back in the shop






The frost that they used on the car is kinda like a metalic that you only see in certain light. You get that glittery look, just dont see the glitter. Here is a closer pic of the hood after and you cant even see it in the pictures but in real life it has a sparkle to it.



Also Casper was kind enough to kick down some of his coopers so I mounted those things up, threw the brakes on the car, and took off the shocks to check wheel fitment and such. Turns out these +1 offsets may be too aggressive for not having a widebody. It really stressed me out when I put the car down. Got a few options right now like change the wheels, run smaller tires, make all new control arms or mod the original ones. Only time will tell whats going to happen next.

Royal_T

iTrader: (9)

Nice Alex, the car is really coming along. Can't wait to see what you have up your sleeves for graphics.

Oh and go smaller tires, with those aggressive wheels. You will have a little poke going on,which would look nice

Nackers

What are you doing about steering angle?

I'm wondering cause my buddy has a SC and since the Z also has a simular setup, I was hoping we both could benifit from it. And since some company I spoke with said 3k for a setup on a Z, I'd kinda like to check my options.

Thanks.

Royal_T

iTrader: (9)

+1 I also would like to know. I asked shop MAX if they had any Parts shop MAX Super Angle Steering knuckle for the Z33. And they said no. He said try tie rod angle spacers and cutting the bump stop.

AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

Parts Shop Max is right. Get the tein inner tie rods, cut the bump stops, and your going to have as much angle as you will get without coverting your lower control arms to something alot more expencive.

Royal_T

iTrader: (9)

I thought that the tein inner tie rods are the same length as factory. And when you say cut the bump stops do you mean remove them or cut them down?

03Z33

iTrader: (49)

The long threaded portion of the inner tie rod that threads into the knuckle is same as stock.

The inner portion of the inner tire rod that threads into the steering rack is longer (more threads) with a spacer. This is what allows for more travel in the rack.

Safest thing on the bump stop is to grind down material as necessary. You can remove it to use a belt sander, then re-install.

Here's an old thread with more info:
https://my350z.com/forum/drift/13963...ter-pics.htmla


NOW BACK ON TOPIC! Let's see more pics

AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

More pics it is...

Working on the suspension, here is the angle with the spindles cut about an inch.



Worked on getting the front end together, I kinda want to run some zuse fasteners or something so I can take off the bumper faster, but those high beams are held in on the same bolts as the top of the bumper.




Went out to G&J and picked up all the fuel line fittings and such. Mr. Yen has some time laitly and is helping me with the build so we started on the fuel stuff. Ran the hard lines under the car.




We decided the best place to put the fuel pressure reg would be to kinda hide it pretty much under the intake mani. One word of advice if you ever work with Andy, keep him away from teflon tape!



Fuel pump and cell in the trunk. Not many other places to stick it.

AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for the lack of updates. Without a working Tig, there wasnt much to do. Now that I can get back to welding, things should be going a bit faster. Finished up the intercooler and mounted it.



Here is a pic from last week when Andy and I were playing with the suspension. At this point the body kit would be on the ground.

Royal_T

iTrader: (9)

Yea that is the perfect hight right there...I just love your whole color scheme..The wheels look really good

SlideFox

Nice!! Do you plan on running a surge tank setup??

ATX350

iTrader: (8)

Things are coming along nicely Alex! Looking forward to seeing this beast on the track.

AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Guys!

Naw, no surge tank, just going to try to keep it topped off.

Started on the exhaust. Wasnt exactly sure how I should run it. The outlet on the turbo is 3.5" and the wheel is kinda tight in there. So was thinking of going 3.5 vband and up it to a 4" down pipe, then spit it to twin 3". Reason being is with the tight radius bends on the down pipe, it kinda needs larger OD to keep the flow. Then running twin 3", its just cheeper and easier to get 3" tubing and gives me more ground clearance.




Also started on the hot pipe. For more room I cut the outlet on the turbo and welded on a new end.

AlexPfeiffer

iTrader: (2)

Picked up some tubing this morning and got to work again. Made the intake pipes and had the windows put back in. The windshield was cracked before we took it out so needed a new one.



Then got to work on the hot side. Starts off as 2.75" and switches by the sway bar to 3" and goes into the intercooler.





Comes out the intercooler as 3.5" and then goes to 4" at the TB.





And from my friends at club4ag...