KPRace Steering angle kit!!! SWEEEeet!!
#104
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even the new pics still have the issues i mention in post 96...
1. the black hex head bolts i hope get replaced........or anyone purchasing this kit should source replacing them...they are black because they are what are called "plain" or "no coating" bolts...........on a vehicle they should be at least zinc coated.........silver or yellow zinc.......
2. the nuts used - blue nylon lock nuts....ya, thats not good...they should at least be "all metal" top lock/prevailing torque lock nuts.
like mentioned here:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293580-post16.html
3. also, look close, bolts are stamped 8.8, i would replaced with minimum 10.9 grade strength. all of Nissan factory green bolts are 10.9 and suspension bolts are 10.9, why add a suspension member and downgrade to 8.8 bolts? - PBM used them because 8.8 "plain" black bolts are cheaper and you can weld on them....
4. Also, i noticed that one plain black bolt is used on the butterfly looking mount that mounts to the spindle....its a bolt that is welded to the tapered cone...., so you cant replace it...so at a bare minimum i would paint the head.
see here:
![](http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1327783979_2_FT6078_dsc03627.jpg)
ANY "plain" black hex head bolts will rust!!!
and 10.9 metric bolts are stronger than 8.8. odds are everything you see is M12x1.75 thread pitch as thats very common. M10x1.5 if M10 diameter. to get length, measure!
1 inch = 25.4 mm
Would i buy - YES, the kit looks great, but i would from day one replace bolts as mentioned, nuts as mentioned, paint head of exposed cone bolt on butterfly fitting, etc..
-J
1. the black hex head bolts i hope get replaced........or anyone purchasing this kit should source replacing them...they are black because they are what are called "plain" or "no coating" bolts...........on a vehicle they should be at least zinc coated.........silver or yellow zinc.......
2. the nuts used - blue nylon lock nuts....ya, thats not good...they should at least be "all metal" top lock/prevailing torque lock nuts.
like mentioned here:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293580-post16.html
3. also, look close, bolts are stamped 8.8, i would replaced with minimum 10.9 grade strength. all of Nissan factory green bolts are 10.9 and suspension bolts are 10.9, why add a suspension member and downgrade to 8.8 bolts? - PBM used them because 8.8 "plain" black bolts are cheaper and you can weld on them....
4. Also, i noticed that one plain black bolt is used on the butterfly looking mount that mounts to the spindle....its a bolt that is welded to the tapered cone...., so you cant replace it...so at a bare minimum i would paint the head.
see here:
![](http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1327783979_2_FT6078_dsc03627.jpg)
ANY "plain" black hex head bolts will rust!!!
and 10.9 metric bolts are stronger than 8.8. odds are everything you see is M12x1.75 thread pitch as thats very common. M10x1.5 if M10 diameter. to get length, measure!
1 inch = 25.4 mm
Would i buy - YES, the kit looks great, but i would from day one replace bolts as mentioned, nuts as mentioned, paint head of exposed cone bolt on butterfly fitting, etc..
-J
#105
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![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
even the new pics still have the issues i mention in post 96...
1. the black hex head bolts i hope get replaced........or anyone purchasing this kit should source replacing them...they are black because they are what are called "plain" or "no coating" bolts...........on a vehicle they should be at least zinc coated.........silver or yellow zinc.......
2. the nuts used - blue nylon lock nuts....ya, thats not good...they should at least be "all metal" top lock/prevailing torque lock nuts.
like mentioned here:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293580-post16.html
3. also, look close, bolts are stamped 8.8, i would replaced with minimum 10.9 grade strength. all of Nissan factory green bolts are 10.9 and suspension bolts are 10.9, why add a suspension member and downgrade to 8.8 bolts? - PBM used them because 8.8 "plain" black bolts are cheaper and you can weld on them....
4. Also, i noticed that one plain black bolt is used on the butterfly looking mount that mounts to the spindle....its a bolt that is welded to the tapered cone...., so you cant replace it...so at a bare minimum i would paint the head.
see here:
![](http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1327783979_2_FT6078_dsc03627.jpg)
ANY "plain" black hex head bolts will rust!!!
and 10.9 metric bolts are stronger than 8.8. odds are everything you see is M12x1.75 thread pitch as thats very common. M10x1.5 if M10 diameter. to get length, measure!
1 inch = 25.4 mm
Would i buy - YES, the kit looks great, but i would from day one replace bolts as mentioned, nuts as mentioned, paint head of exposed cone bolt on butterfly fitting, etc..
-J
1. the black hex head bolts i hope get replaced........or anyone purchasing this kit should source replacing them...they are black because they are what are called "plain" or "no coating" bolts...........on a vehicle they should be at least zinc coated.........silver or yellow zinc.......
2. the nuts used - blue nylon lock nuts....ya, thats not good...they should at least be "all metal" top lock/prevailing torque lock nuts.
like mentioned here:
https://my350z.com/forum/8293580-post16.html
3. also, look close, bolts are stamped 8.8, i would replaced with minimum 10.9 grade strength. all of Nissan factory green bolts are 10.9 and suspension bolts are 10.9, why add a suspension member and downgrade to 8.8 bolts? - PBM used them because 8.8 "plain" black bolts are cheaper and you can weld on them....
4. Also, i noticed that one plain black bolt is used on the butterfly looking mount that mounts to the spindle....its a bolt that is welded to the tapered cone...., so you cant replace it...so at a bare minimum i would paint the head.
see here:
![](http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1327783979_2_FT6078_dsc03627.jpg)
ANY "plain" black hex head bolts will rust!!!
and 10.9 metric bolts are stronger than 8.8. odds are everything you see is M12x1.75 thread pitch as thats very common. M10x1.5 if M10 diameter. to get length, measure!
1 inch = 25.4 mm
Would i buy - YES, the kit looks great, but i would from day one replace bolts as mentioned, nuts as mentioned, paint head of exposed cone bolt on butterfly fitting, etc..
-J
#108
Registered User
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The PBM kit is a huge pain in the *** to align. It's super easy to install. Without any directions and only looking at a couple photos on their website, I got it done in a few hours. Only thing is shaving the factory knuckle to get maximum angle.
![](https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/558633_336944603036093_100001616684537_893028_264116589_n.jpg)
The result is amazing. Car doesn't seem to bind at lock. Transitions are smooth as butter. Steering angle is retarted. Only thing I seemed to notice was once I get near full lock the steering wheel does get a bit harder to turn, so I didn't realize I had a little bit more left, but it doesn't bother me at all.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ACuepxN7ucQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
1:13 really shows off the angle and the transitions this kit is capable of.
I've had these on the car for a couple months and haven't noticed anything going bad or wearing prematurely. No rust to speak of, and everything seems good. One thing I did notice is the tire does make small contact with the inner fender. I've painted a couple small sections with tire in there. I'm running a 18x9.5 -1 235/40/18 and the car is still a bit lower than Ryan Kado's car. He's running 18x9.5 +15 according to Dan@Partsshopmax but he didn't tell me about any rubbing *nor did I ask*. I would think maybe running a 9" wide wheel, different caster, less offset, or raising the car a bit more may fix that if it concerns you. It doesn't concern me.
![](https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/558633_336944603036093_100001616684537_893028_264116589_n.jpg)
The result is amazing. Car doesn't seem to bind at lock. Transitions are smooth as butter. Steering angle is retarted. Only thing I seemed to notice was once I get near full lock the steering wheel does get a bit harder to turn, so I didn't realize I had a little bit more left, but it doesn't bother me at all.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ACuepxN7ucQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
1:13 really shows off the angle and the transitions this kit is capable of.
I've had these on the car for a couple months and haven't noticed anything going bad or wearing prematurely. No rust to speak of, and everything seems good. One thing I did notice is the tire does make small contact with the inner fender. I've painted a couple small sections with tire in there. I'm running a 18x9.5 -1 235/40/18 and the car is still a bit lower than Ryan Kado's car. He's running 18x9.5 +15 according to Dan@Partsshopmax but he didn't tell me about any rubbing *nor did I ask*. I would think maybe running a 9" wide wheel, different caster, less offset, or raising the car a bit more may fix that if it concerns you. It doesn't concern me.
Last edited by Nackers; 05-20-2012 at 09:41 AM.
#110
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iTrader: (4)
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Looking good Nackers. These are definitely on my list of things to get but I've decided I'm going to wait to get it until I get more horsepower, so maybe when I twin turbo my motor next season or the season after. I just feel like with N/A + bolt ons it'll just slow me down. Good to hear that after a couple months everything is still feeling up to snuff.
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