thom000001

Relocating your battery to the rear is more of a drag racing thing. Most drag cars (mustangs, camaro's, any old muscle car) are nose heavy. So this gets an easy 35lbs off the nose and over the rear.

Sound Performance has done this in their shop 350Z

If you look at road race cars (i.e. Porsche GT3, GT3 cup cars), the battery is almost in the dead center of the car (well the center and just in front of the windshield).

A lighter battery is always a plus. Ran a motorcycle battery in a GT3 cup car with zero issues (and that thing was running 4 fuel pumps, motec, tons of sensors). As long as you are not using one of those tiny batteries in a cold climate you will be fine.

Tom

350Zenophile

iTrader: (20)

I drive my car about once every 2-4 days so I need something I can rely on to start my car without trickle charging.

Also, from what I've read in the FSM and online, the Z requires at least 490 CCA. The only braille battery that meets that spec is the 21lber.

__jb

iTrader: (3)

For those of you considering a trickle charger... This Battery Tender is a trickle charger but it has smart circuitry that puts it into a standby mode once the battery is charged. It comes alive and checks the batter from time to time. If needed it starts charging again. It's sort of a smart trickle charger.

http://batterytender.com/product_inf...ce92b3c8ce0a05

Another note... You can buy them for $39 at Amazon. That's where I got mine.

http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-SuperS...1697185&sr=8-1

I don't have a lightweight battery yet, but I'm planning to get the B2015 like Rick.

http://braillebattery.com/index.php/batteries/b2015/

Lots of links...

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

yep I have the smaller tender..it's just the a/c plug and the clips for the battery. I have a factory batter, but I still have to leave it on the trickle charger or disconnect it if I'm not going to drive it for a couple weeks at a time

350Zenophile

iTrader: (20)

you battery tender guys...whats the connection procedure? do you connect the positive lead first, then the negative to the negative terminal post on the battery or do you connect it to the chassis? I know last step is to plug it in to avoid a spark...just heard two different connection methods and don't know pros or cons of either...

thom000001

Well there are 3 options for different reasons.

Best, is to "hardwire" it with supplied wiring/connectors. Then all you need to do is plug tender into that connector then plug tender into wall.

other 2 involve the alligator clips.
Some will say that you should follow the same procedure as jump starting the car. Connect Positive clip to positive post on battery, connect Negative clip to a chassis ground. Then plug tender into outlet.

Some will say connect positive clip to positive post, connect negative clip to negative post and plug tender into wall.

Either aligator clip method is ok. Reason for the 2 different ideas is the low amperage the tender supplies. If you don't have a clean connection to the chassis, the tender may not be able to supply enough amperage to adequately charge battery.
You are not going to get a spark as long as you plug tender into wall AFTER connecting clips PROPERLY.

Tom

350Zenophile

iTrader: (20)

Thank you...reassuring to know I'm not going to be blowing up my battery now. =)

Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

Just removed some of the AC lines and the AC condensor in front of the radiator. I will weigh the items out tomorrow.

Some information:

ARC Radiator is 15.4 lbs.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

I think you've made fair statements, however, aren't you also referencing vehicles with an already 50:50 weight distribution?

Regards.

thom000001

Well the Z is pretty close to 50:50,
But even in drag racing thats not ideal, for road racing it definately is ideal.

For drag you pretty much want as much weight towards the rear as you can, and proper weight transfer.

For road racing we know that the 911 breaks all the molds and theories. The 996 Cup car weighed 2750lbs w/driver and had like a 65-68% rear weight bias (due to engine placement obviously).

Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

Okay pulled the AC Condensor out, some of the AC lines, and the Ac compressor.

Total weight savings ~26 lbs.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

Is that before you put the radiator back in?

Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

Unfortunately no LOL. I installed the ARC radiator and then realized after taking a closer look that I could remove all of that stuff without having to get a new drive belt. So I tore it all down again and removed the sucker

thom000001

Wow, I woulda guessed it weigh'd more.

Thanks for getting the info though.

rbfd

iTrader: (18)

You should make a DIY on the process, Ive been itching to remove the AC but hadnt seen any documentation that any one else had done it problem free.

Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

It's actually really easy.

-Remove undertray
-Remove radiator fans
-Remove radiator
-Remove AC Compressor (3 bolts holding it in place)

Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

Yeah, it would be great if it weighed more. On a positive note, the weight removal is in front of the front wheels. My front passenger side has always been lighter than the driver side. It was probably amplified by the Braille racing battery as well. Removing ~17 lbs (AC compressor) from the front driver side to even things up a bit was nice. I can't wait to finish everything up to corner balance this thing to see how much it weighs.

Lightning Guy

iTrader: (8)

Yeah the AC removal was easy, pulling my heater core out was a chore.

Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

I was looking in to that project. During my cage build, I don't remember what they did and did not remove. However, looking at the coolant system leading to the heater core, I could tell removing that would be a PITA.

Any pointers, if this is something I have to tackle?

Lightning Guy

iTrader: (8)

The lines are the easiest part, LOL.

I used caps to cover the nipples. I need to tap the high pressure pipe and just put a plug in it, but htat is one of those things I'll get around to it, I dont need the upper outlet at all, I removed the water bypass and heater core, still need the lower phigh pressure outlet though.

As far as the heater core, you have to take the entire dash out, and then you have to fool with the dash frame that is built around the dayum thing.

YOu car is way better looking than, but these were taken right after i removed the dash and heater core. I assume you have a dash bar as part of your cage, so you might not have to fool with the OE bar like i did.