Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

LOL @ my car being in the pics.

Lightning Guy

iTrader: (8)

LOL, that is irony isn't it

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

Ok, the car is getting there. All weighing is done at the same station with as close to 1/4 tank of gas as possible. When I bought the car it was 3180 with full interior and it did not have catalytic converters.



March 09': I gutted the rear but re-installed the cats for smog, and netted down to 3120.

May 09': I got a set of lightweight wheels, Bride seat, JWT clutch and FW, and lightweight Braille battery, which netted down to 3060.

For June 09': I ordered the Motordyne single-side race exhaust and will reinstall the test pipes. That should drop me to about 3020, however, I also purchased a Kirk Roll Bar which will bring it back up around 3100 in race trim. Then I'll get real corner weight numbers and balance from there.

dnguyent

iTrader: (5)

Scott, I take it you have no plans to gut the doors? There is so much weight in there...glass, window motors, and the linings.

-Don

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

Thanks for the suggestion, Don. I'm not against gutting the doors, actually, and removing some weight from ahead of the car-center would be good. I can't remove the glass at this time though, as the car has to stay outside. Any idea how much weight is in there?

dnguyent

iTrader: (5)

I don't have a hard number, but I have a friend who gutted his boxster (for the spec boxster series), and I was REALLY impressed with how light the doors felt. He even left the structural beam in place even though he had a full cage built. In any case, he told me that he's saving thousands of $$$ by not buying a cf door as he was able to come very close to min weight. I've swung open a 997 GT3 Cup car door before, and although the boxster was not nearly as light, it was way lighter than a non-gutted door.

I'm guessing about 20lbs per door for the Z. That little window motor is hefty, and there are quite a few bolts inside the doors.

alving

What a difference the weight reduction makes!
I took a ride in Scott's Z and the acceleration just feels so much more responsive.
I have an '06 enth. and it was 3260 last time I weighed...feels like a slug compared to Scott's lightweight

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Good stuff. My car is down to 3130, but I am hoping to get it down to 3050 here shortly.

When you say you "gutted" the trunk........you mean everything bare to the metal?

finalforce

iTrader: (68)

Dayum, you guys are dropping weight. I've cut 178.35 lbs. so far, I know its not much compared to you guys here. I still need to drop more weight

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

Yup, bare from the seats back. I left the rear speakers - they are like 2# total. I think I'll do the doors next, as Don suggested. I had the plastic out around the e-brake and the kick panels, but really didn't like it, so put it back in.

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Alright. I have mine down to nothing, and the rear wiper removed (along with reservoir and motor). The thing I don't like is that I have taken about 30 pounds out of the middle of the car and 50-70 out of the rear. I would like to get 40 or so pounds out of the front of the car and even things out. I don't like that I could be throwing the distribution off. Also since most of the weight is coming off of the bottom of the car and raising the center of gravity. With that said I am going to go a pc680 battery here in the next weeks along with a new clutch assembly that is about 17 pound lighter than stock. Those two mods should drop ~40 pounds. I am also thinking of removing the steering wheel/airbag assembly, but am weary due to potential resale problems. Anywho.

KingBaby

iTrader: (3)

^^^

sell it to a memeber will get brought...

just bumping one of my favorite threads...

gutting the trunk has to be one of the most felt mods for the car I did it and the car feels way lighter, interior noise is crazy listening to the radio/cd it has to be on 20 rather than 15 also on a quarter tank of gas is sounds like sex when your on it...nismo exhaust I mean sounds great...

I lub dis tread it mak mi hoppy wen wee lose weight...

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

I put just the rear mat and the undermat back into the trunk. No weight added, and it insulated some of the noise.

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Scotts300: What are you using to mount your braille battery.........the kit they sell separately?

mikez97

iTrader: (12)

ive got C/F doors FS if anyone is intrested

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

I bought the battery used, however, the holder is just some ginned up wood from HD that's been painted.

M3ownZ

Strip out your Z!

JK_HRZ

iTrader: (1)

I read through this whole thread but i dont remember which battery was best for daily driving. There were too many mentioned... braille, odyssey, etc.

I want a lightweight battery, but i dont want it to die on me. All audio in my car is stock.

Any opinions? Thanks

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

My Braille lasts 3 days without starting. I don't leave it on a trickle charge, but it won't start on the 4th day. You could use it for DD without issue.

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

For people with the room weather and daily start up the braille is fine, but for people in the colder climates I would think twice.......I don't have personal experience with the Odyssey pc680, but know a few people locally who have them. One wouldn't start after about 36 hours of shutoff with temps below 15 degrees, but could go 5-6 days without start-up without problem. Honestly, both are pretty good option.