When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
because its not really worth the effort that really isnt a "beast" its roughly 10 or 15 lbs had mine off several times. even the stock k member isnt that heavy nothing like say a third gen camaro where the front k member weighs 100 lbs and you can drop 60 lbs going to a tubular one.
plus fabbing up aluminum structural parts isnt good unless your a OEM, you will find most replacement parts would be DOM tube and heavier then that mostly stamped piece but better stiffness as a result.
good to know. I've weighed virtually every part I've had out of the car on a hanging scale, and would have visually placed that piece at more than 15lbs.
that particular one probably is due to the extra brace welded in and the extra stitch welds it looks like but they arnt heavy from the factory they are just akward when trying to bolt up.
Thats what i was thinking as well, still doesnt make much sense though.
Does anyone know about the 3 "chunks of steel"? I remember reading about one in the trunk but thats about it.
I know there is a chunk of steel attached to the back of transmission roughly 4x4x4 held on with hefty bolts and rubber feet.
IIRC it is for harmonics. These cars have horrible harmonics at certain rpms, around 3k being the worst and that was Nissan's attempt at balancing it I think.
Read a post on here, op claiming he was running car through rpms on a lift and at around 3150rpm, which is where the rasp is bad, he said his entire exhaust system started to vibrate so bad it became blurry to the eye.
So I dunno if its the best thing to remove but it probably weighs at least 1lb.
Btw thanks to the dead thread lover. Never seen this thread before and it was a really good read for the last two days at work. I wanna try some of this on my car, just scared to ruin something so nice.
Very interesting thread, never knew it existed. Been wanting some days just open the hatch and start tearing *hit out.
So for all you that have done this, How much weight do you have to strip off the Z before you noticed a difference in the cars performance? 100lbs? 200?...More?
Very interesting thread, never knew it existed. Been wanting some days just open the hatch and start tearing *hit out.
So for all you that have done this, How much weight do you have to strip off the Z before you noticed a difference in the cars performance? 100lbs? 200?...More?
Depends if you want something qualitative or quantitative! Get rid of that spare tire in the trunk, and zoooooooooooom the butt-dyno says rawr and fast.
How much do YOU weight? I still think that unless you are skinny, the best weight loss to the Z is the weight loss applied to the driver
True and not true at the same time. My car was 3,150lbs stock with the VQ in it and I got it down to 2,649lbs WET WITH AN LS1 AND TH400 TRANSMISSION. I definitely don't weigh 500lbs so I think it is still worth it.
recently weighed my race car so i thought id add it to this thread.
car was 1311kg (2890lbs) with 1/2-3/4 a tank a fuel.
which i was quite happy with since its got a full FIA spec cage and a vortech setup which both add quite a bit.
also still have original doors, hatch and bonnet. etc so still plenty of weight to save.
recently weighed my race car so i thought id add it to this thread.
car was 1311kg (2890lbs) with 1/2-3/4 a tank a fuel.
which i was quite happy with since its got a full FIA spec cage and a vortech setup which both add quite a bit.
also still have original doors, hatch and bonnet. etc so still plenty of weight to save.
one from last year
How is the weight distribution with the vortech setup and gutted interior. I imagine its a bit nose heavy and if so have you done anything to shift the weight around; ie.: battery relocation.
