We'll see. I just somehow don't feel comfortable stressing my engine with aftermarket solution. ESPECIALLY if warranty is out. I know it's not that big chance of problems, but they do occur. And it would be nice to have factory solution. I'd even like n/a engine with 350 hp more than FI.

BTW, I'm not worried about M3 that much. My friend just got brand new M3 so I took it for a good speen on parking lot... Helped him to brush the tires, all for free. Nice car, no arguing there but it wasn't faster than my Z. Even if there is a difference in acceleration, it's very negligable. We didn't do drag race yet, since he still learning to launch the car. And in corners extra 200 lbs of weight is defenetely showing!

 

Any chance of clutched FI? I mean where I can switch FI off and bypass it using switch in the cabin? I know such a solutions exist, but not sure if any mass producing FI companies use them?

It's very simple idea where Fi pulley is attached using magnet clutch, so it can be detached from the engine and stopped. At the same moment special valve switches from fi otput to bypass.

Idea is to save gas and engine... With gas prices ricing at such a rate, it worries me a little.

 

Vlad - The E46 M3 is much faster than a 350Z. You probably wouldn't know it from tooling around on a parking lot, but believe me it's a ton faster (especially above 80mph). Talking acceleration here, obviously.

Also, and not to pick on you too much, but a "hutch" is where rabbits live. A "hatch" is what is on the back of a hatchback.

 

Are they all E46 this year? We did get to about a 110 fulling around on a highway... but not a straight race... We'll get to it when he accustomed to the car and stickshift.

I have a rabbit living in my yard. So my yard is a hutch?

 

That's pretty cool, reminds me of the original Road Warrior movie.

I recall reading in the FI forum about SC owners that said it was OK to remove the SC belt for long drives to reduce wear/save gas. I don't think that the SC systems boost until around 4K, so you probably don't suffer too much. Of course TTs only boost when you get in the gas, so they're probably the best combination of power and fuel efficiency.

I think I already read about someone with a Stillen SC getting around 20mpg in the city and 22 on the highway. I get about 22 now and 25+ on the highway with just an exhaust.

 

Just installed my new battery. Old one is 35.5 lbs. Frikin huge and heavy. PC545 is 11.5 together with parts. So that's 24 lbs lighter for $90 (battery, shipping, installation parts). about $3.75/pound.

I'll post installation pictures on weekend. I need to visit Home Depot to get something to replace my temporary wooden block on top of battery...

I know you'll say it's sycological... but car is defenetely better handling and accelerating. Removing 24 pounds buket of water from front compartment helps!

 

Where did you get the battery from?

 

http://www.gotbatteries.com/Productp...ctNum=37L141S5

They ship next day.
Don't forget accessory brass posts.

 

Vlad, I've been looking and I think I'm going to keep the stock posts and tie-down, but use a die to cut threads far enough down for the PC545. That way it will still be clamped similarly to the stock one.

Of course, it goes without saying that you should put the battery as far inboard as possible before clamping down (makes less polar moment!)

 

And one more for you Vlad, the metal plate behind the driver's seat that the factory sub attaches to weighs 3.5 lb. I don't know if that's what you have listed as "resonator" on your recipe, or is that the resonator box from the engine bay?

 

By resonator I meant central piece on exhaust pipte. Just replaced it with straight pipe.

Here is the link to battery installation thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....242#post821242

 

Originally posted by UsafaRice
Vlad, I've been looking and I think I'm going to keep the stock posts and tie-down, but use a die to cut threads far enough down for the PC545. That way it will still be clamped similarly to the stock one.

I kept the stock posts but had to make some new parts instead of using tie-down (top piece, right?). Installation is totally reversable though.

Of course, it goes without saying that you should put the battery as far inboard as possible before clamping down (makes less polar moment!)

There is really only one place where both wires (very short) can reach terminals. That's middle of most-forward position.

 

Can that metal plate be removed? Replaced? What the purpose of it?

 

If you pop out the plastic panel behind the driver's seat (mirror of the glove box on the other side) it's right there. It has like 10-15 bolts holding it in so all you have to do is yank those. I did it while I had the interior taken apart. So I don't remember if you can access everything with the panels still in.

The plate is the mounting point for the stock sub in the Touring model with the Bose audio setup.

Anyway, if you do pull the interior, then you can yank those 2 crappy speakers in the back as well. I replaced them, but I think the replacements are going to come back out this summer.

On another note, taking 200 to 300 lbs out of the car will raise the ride height a little. This probably changes the roll center as well. (to higher, which is worse...)

Has anyone weighed a stock lug nut as compared to one of the 5Zigen, Nismo, or Ray's ones?

 

how about Amuse's dry carbon door , hood and hatch?
does the weight saving differs a lot?

 

Door will save a lot, if properly made... but door is a structural safety feature. Since I don't have a full cage (or anything else) I'm not replacing the door, even if I had money. Mirrors and window motors are another thing though

 

how much weight saving am i l looking at for a carbon mirros?

 

It's difficult to measure... I have a mirror but I don't have precise scales. Subjectifly assembly weights 6+ lbs. And that's all high lbs. With good cf mirror you'll save most of that weight, I'd imagine. x2

 

would this plate b in my base model?

 

BJ said headlights weight about 20lbs each... true?