jreiter

iTrader: (6)

I'm really not thinking that will fix the problem. With my engine damper and Koni shocks I still have it. Even adjusting the shocks to all sorts of different damping levels makes absolutely no difference at all. I'm not sure what coilovers would additionally provide that would allow you to dial out the hop. Perhaps some compression damping adjustment (the Konis only allow rebound damping adjustment), but even then I don't think that'll help.

There just must be something inherent in the Z's suspension design that's doing it. (Geometry, etc.) Until someone figures it out (which could prove to be an expensive trial-and-error process in itself), I think Nano is right when he said that there is probably no cheap way to get rid of the wheel hop.

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

i guess "reducing" wheel hop is really the only solution available right now....and it seems that would be by installing an engine damper.

otherwise, its up to the driver who ultimately has the control. albiet spinning the tires isn't going to win you any drag races, it is inevitable that you are at some time or another going to experience wheel hop if you drive the car hard.

i have coilovers and i don't think that does anything in reducing or eliminating wheel hop.

what i don't get is that some people say they don't have the wheel hop while prominently most others do have it

Nano

iTrader: (1)

might be carefull with the 5zigen piece. it appears to interfere with coilovers

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

thats good info...thanks

uplz4588

yeah the stillen helps it a bit... but overall driving of the car is much nicer!

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

please explain...how does this make the car drive nicer....its just an engine damper

is there any side effects such as cabin vibration?

jreiter

iTrader: (6)

Ah man, you're killing me here. I must've answered these questions 3 times in this thread already in one way or another.

The car is nicer to drive because an engine torque damper reduces the amount of engine movement when getting on the throttle and letting off. This improves throttle response, makes starting from a stop a bit smoother since the clutch take-up point becomes more noticeable, and can slightly reduce that awful lurching that can happen if you are trying to hold slow speeds in a low gear like 1st.

The only negative to a torque damper is that it does transmit a very small amount of vibration into the cabin. But like I said before, it's barely noticeable. You feel a little more in the steering wheel, but that's about it.

Just get the darn thing already!

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

still not sold on the engine damper....but you would make a great salesman

jreiter

iTrader: (6)

Do you know anyone near you that has one? Go take it for a drive. Just make sure they have the same clutch and flywheel as you so you can really see the difference between with and without the damper.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

the engine damper does def helpt the hop.......the sheer weight of the car has alot to do with it, as does your alignment settings, offset tire choice, etc. You will not completely get rid of it, but the damper helps alot (I have the 5 Zigen on mine that I heavily reworked to allow it to work with my coilovers)

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

can you pm me with more details on the 5zigen....i am interested but i am running hks ls+ coilovers and stock strut bar...thanks

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

well the 5 Zigen is special order only...not something they stock in the US traditionally. I had to make my own bracket and elected to relocate it to the front of the motor aiming towards the front part of the strut tower.

No idea if it would work with the LS's as we have never used them

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

hmmm....i am very interested....i like the 5zigen design and would like to know more about it. can you take some pictures of your setup? why would this not work with coilovers?

i wonder if your same setup would work on mine.....hopefully there won't be too much of a difference between the two coilover mounts. let me know, i will special order and no hurry....i had to wait 3 months for my air walker and about the same for my fuji ti

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

if your coilovers have an adjustment **** for dampening up top it may not fit...that is why I had to relocate mine and make a new bracket. The Cusco coilovers adjustment **** is up top and sticks up pretty far - the 5Zigen damper would have come down right on top of it

Road Warrior

iTrader: (16)

here is a pic of my left side...you can see the **** behind the strut bar...it sticks up a bit too.

would you be willing to hook me up with the custom pieces (brackets & hardware) and sharing of your setup?

jreiter

iTrader: (6)

For anyone interested, I've had my S-03 tires on for a few days now and they wheel hop just as bad as my previous Toyo T1-S tires did. Oh well. Didn't really think they'd make much difference, but I had hope.

Bahraini350Z

I have had this problem for the past months now. My car is a 03 touring.

I used to have a mild wheel hop whenever I get wheelspin. After two months of dragging my car, wheel hop increased and started to appear at burnouts too
I use Nitto DRs, but since can't do any b/outs, still get wheel hop with them I even broke an axle shaft once

Been trying to find a solution for this problem for last couple of months, but couldn't think of any confirmed one!! Diff mount and bushings were the most suspects for this problem (in my search).

1st gear hard launch....... wheel hop
Slamming 2nd................ wheel hop
rain..............................wheel hop
Burn outs..................... wheel hop
Stock Bridgestones........ wheel hop
Nitto's DRs................... wheel hop
Drifting........................ NO wheel hop

plz help

xephiron

On a good launch with just a little wheel spin, I don't really notice much wheep hop so it isn't so bad. But... when I launch too hard and spin 1st gear wildly, I get crazy wheel hop and usually it will pop out of gear if I persist. Then I shift to 2nd gear and the wheels spin very smoothly, you can even feel the back end trying to snake back and forth a little. (note: at this time I am still trying to get outta the starting box)

On a good launch when I am speeding down the strip and do a high RPM speed-shift into 2nd, it just spins for what seems like one second and it doesn't really hop there either. Of course the same type of shift to 3rd gear (going about 85 MPH I think) at high RPM it just barks so no issue there.

I was able to burn out really nicely on my SO3 Poles when I first got them, but once they were about 1/2-way worn I couldn't even burn out anymore hardly because of the wheel hop

Haven't really tried to burn out on PS2's. Kinda trying to make them last... $1300 dollar set of tires every 15k miles is no fun heh

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

My car doesn't have the problem, because I burnt up my first set of rear Kuhmo MX's by breaking traction on too many takeoff's, I've learned to not do that all the time. But my Goodyear GSD3's don't do the hop either.

I run the following alignment specs
Front: -1.1 camber 1mm total toe in. Rear: -1.3 camber .8mm toe in (less then recommended)

In looking at this thread, one thing come's to mind. Granted, I don't have the problem, but who knows I could just be a simple mod or alignment change away from having it. But I'd love to know if any of the guy's that are running with poly or sperical bushings on their radius rods (aftermarket falsely calls the part toe arms or traction rods) can say they have wheel hop.

350G

iTrader: (4)

Hmmm . . . I have no suspension mods, but I do have aftermarket 19's with some 285s (Falken Betas) on the rear WITH a nice laser alignment job. I had to get the alignment to alleviate the 2003 toe-in issue. No wheel hop.