my fu&^ing Z is an underpowerd POS :(
Originally Posted by Gman2004
Use non foulers. Do a search for the help method.
but I did go on G35driver.com and find all your posts. lol!
Last edited by ZU L8R; May 8, 2005 at 08:12 PM.
Originally Posted by ZU L8R
Are you referring to O2 simulators? Where did you find some?
found the help method on another forum. This work and you don't have to splice any wires...cheap too...only $5 for each pack and you need to packs.
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66426
yeah I meant the non foulers
you don't actually use them as they were originally intended with spark plugs
the alternative involves soldering some wires - note the nissan engineer said the same thing. This method can be undone easily and doesn't require soldering.
ONLY DO THIS IF YOU EITHER HAVE TEST PIPES OR TONS MORE AIR FLOW THAN STOCK - TO THE POINT WHERE YOUR CAR TRIPS SES OR CEL LIGHTS
otherwise who knows how the car will react. It might start running really rich - which could be good or bad depending on where you live and what gas you run. It's up to you at your own risk to try it
here's a compilation of all sorts of quotes I've saved about them from users from all sorts of websites.
they are called spark plug anti-foulers. i have them on my msp w/ corksport exhaust. use the 18mm ones and just drill out the bottom of one of them with a 1/2" drill bit (do not cut it off) and screw them into each other. it creates a chamber outside the main exhaust fow for the o2 to get a proper reading. suby guys have been doing this for a while with no cel/mil.
The heat will make the O2 active, but since it's out of the more laminar flow, that means less poloutants get to the O2 sensor, and thusly, it thinks the air is catalyzed.
i just went and got the HELP! Spark plug non fouler. Part 42002 for 3.99 from autozone.
Its a 2 pack, that you screw together, and then screw the open end into the o2, and the other into the bung.
This does require that you drill out the hole to allow for more flow to the o2, but thats pretty easy.
We datalogged the effects and it keeps it at the voltage where it thinks theres a cat there.
Never thrown a cel with this fix, proving once again it works
you don't actually use them as they were originally intended with spark plugs
the alternative involves soldering some wires - note the nissan engineer said the same thing. This method can be undone easily and doesn't require soldering.
ONLY DO THIS IF YOU EITHER HAVE TEST PIPES OR TONS MORE AIR FLOW THAN STOCK - TO THE POINT WHERE YOUR CAR TRIPS SES OR CEL LIGHTS
otherwise who knows how the car will react. It might start running really rich - which could be good or bad depending on where you live and what gas you run. It's up to you at your own risk to try it
here's a compilation of all sorts of quotes I've saved about them from users from all sorts of websites.
they are called spark plug anti-foulers. i have them on my msp w/ corksport exhaust. use the 18mm ones and just drill out the bottom of one of them with a 1/2" drill bit (do not cut it off) and screw them into each other. it creates a chamber outside the main exhaust fow for the o2 to get a proper reading. suby guys have been doing this for a while with no cel/mil.
The heat will make the O2 active, but since it's out of the more laminar flow, that means less poloutants get to the O2 sensor, and thusly, it thinks the air is catalyzed.
i just went and got the HELP! Spark plug non fouler. Part 42002 for 3.99 from autozone.
Its a 2 pack, that you screw together, and then screw the open end into the o2, and the other into the bung.
This does require that you drill out the hole to allow for more flow to the o2, but thats pretty easy.
We datalogged the effects and it keeps it at the voltage where it thinks theres a cat there.
Never thrown a cel with this fix, proving once again it works
Last edited by sentry65; May 8, 2005 at 08:25 PM.
Originally Posted by ZU L8R
I got nothing, here
but I did go on G35driver.com and find all your posts. lol!
but I did go on G35driver.com and find all your posts. lol!
it's a proven method to make the ECU think the pollution/emissions are within spec because it won't throw a code and thus reducing power
however, if the MAF is saturated or beyond it's intended range, the ECU won't know to add even more fuel. It can only add so much fuel. It won't add more fuel than it was programmed to add.
does anyone know if you can run the APEXI and Emanage at the same time?
the APEXI alters the MAF voltage, the emanage adjusts the injectors
It might be that you need to be able to do both to REALLY control the ECU... or get a standalone EMS
however, if the MAF is saturated or beyond it's intended range, the ECU won't know to add even more fuel. It can only add so much fuel. It won't add more fuel than it was programmed to add.
does anyone know if you can run the APEXI and Emanage at the same time?
the APEXI alters the MAF voltage, the emanage adjusts the injectors
It might be that you need to be able to do both to REALLY control the ECU... or get a standalone EMS
Last edited by sentry65; May 8, 2005 at 11:23 PM.
Originally Posted by Armitage
^Ok, well I stand corrected then. That would smoke the Z in a straight line. 

Originally Posted by sentry65
yeah I meant the non foulers
you don't actually use them as they were originally intended with spark plugs
the alternative involves soldering some wires - note the nissan engineer said the same thing. This method can be undone easily and doesn't require soldering.
ONLY DO THIS IF YOU EITHER HAVE TEST PIPES OR TONS MORE AIR FLOW THAN STOCK - TO THE POINT WHERE YOUR CAR TRIPS SES OR CEL LIGHTS
otherwise who knows how the car will react. It might start running really rich - which could be good or bad depending on where you live and what gas you run. It's up to you at your own risk to try it
here's a compilation of all sorts of quotes I've saved about them from users from all sorts of websites.
they are called spark plug anti-foulers. i have them on my msp w/ corksport exhaust. use the 18mm ones and just drill out the bottom of one of them with a 1/2" drill bit (do not cut it off) and screw them into each other. it creates a chamber outside the main exhaust fow for the o2 to get a proper reading. suby guys have been doing this for a while with no cel/mil.
The heat will make the O2 active, but since it's out of the more laminar flow, that means less poloutants get to the O2 sensor, and thusly, it thinks the air is catalyzed.
i just went and got the HELP! Spark plug non fouler. Part 42002 for 3.99 from autozone.
Its a 2 pack, that you screw together, and then screw the open end into the o2, and the other into the bung.
This does require that you drill out the hole to allow for more flow to the o2, but thats pretty easy.
We datalogged the effects and it keeps it at the voltage where it thinks theres a cat there.
Never thrown a cel with this fix, proving once again it works
you don't actually use them as they were originally intended with spark plugs
the alternative involves soldering some wires - note the nissan engineer said the same thing. This method can be undone easily and doesn't require soldering.
ONLY DO THIS IF YOU EITHER HAVE TEST PIPES OR TONS MORE AIR FLOW THAN STOCK - TO THE POINT WHERE YOUR CAR TRIPS SES OR CEL LIGHTS
otherwise who knows how the car will react. It might start running really rich - which could be good or bad depending on where you live and what gas you run. It's up to you at your own risk to try it
here's a compilation of all sorts of quotes I've saved about them from users from all sorts of websites.
they are called spark plug anti-foulers. i have them on my msp w/ corksport exhaust. use the 18mm ones and just drill out the bottom of one of them with a 1/2" drill bit (do not cut it off) and screw them into each other. it creates a chamber outside the main exhaust fow for the o2 to get a proper reading. suby guys have been doing this for a while with no cel/mil.
The heat will make the O2 active, but since it's out of the more laminar flow, that means less poloutants get to the O2 sensor, and thusly, it thinks the air is catalyzed.
i just went and got the HELP! Spark plug non fouler. Part 42002 for 3.99 from autozone.
Its a 2 pack, that you screw together, and then screw the open end into the o2, and the other into the bung.
This does require that you drill out the hole to allow for more flow to the o2, but thats pretty easy.
We datalogged the effects and it keeps it at the voltage where it thinks theres a cat there.
Never thrown a cel with this fix, proving once again it works
another good find
Sentry 65 love ur website bro .saved it to my favorite it just needs your input on different mods that would be great.dont have any cell lights but im doing this mod anyway ill post on here my findings probably next week,,,
thanks
im just angry at nissan for making a sports car that cant be moded safely ...
Originally Posted by Paul_BB_Guy
I gotta agree with that. I can understand them wanting to closely guard how the computer controls the engine but it sure makes it difficult for anyone wanting to do significant mods.
thank you....suddenly i dont feel alone anymore
Originally Posted by KWIKZ
another good find
Sentry 65 love ur website bro .saved it to my favorite it just needs your input on different mods that would be great.
dont have any cell lights but im doing this mod anyway ill post on here my findings probably next week,,,
thanks
Sentry 65 love ur website bro .saved it to my favorite it just needs your input on different mods that would be great.dont have any cell lights but im doing this mod anyway ill post on here my findings probably next week,,,
thanks
hehe my website? you mean my webspace?
Originally Posted by KWIKZ
HAHAHA LOL thats classic
one question how did you completely turn off the VDC
thanks
one question how did you completely turn off the VDC
thanks
you pull the black fuse behind the shifter under the center console
Originally Posted by MySunset350Z
is there a reason as to why i havent tripped the CEL with my xerd test pipes and injen CAI? is it more likely to happen when i get an exhuast or y-pipe?
so far it seems that people with ONLY test pipes and intake or even plenum too, don't seem to trip SES lights
if you added exhaust, headers or cams, possibly so yeah
you can probably dig up threads on it here. I've read them so I know they're on this site
Ive had an intake, plenum, exhaust and test-pipes on and off the car a few times, but a total of about 20K miles at least and I have never tripped the CEL with them. I know a kid who's CEL came on 1 week after he did it, and hes on factory exhaust.
Originally Posted by sentry65
BTW of course you lost some low end torque with test pipes - you're NA. You don't have as much back pressure. Without some form of FI, you're not going to get the same sort of back pressure levels down low. Up in the high RPM's you'll gain power, but not down low. That's test pipes 101 sorta info...
What cams and test pipes and all these other things do is possibly decrease velocity of the intake charge or exhaust pulses. As a result, they increase total flow at higher RPM, but the loss of velocity decreases efficiency and therefore torque.
So, notice no discussion of backpressure. It doesn't matter here. In fact, less backpressure can even make more power. Ok, I feel better now.



