High Clutch? want to lower your clutch engagement point?
03-18-2006, 05:28 PM
#221
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Originally Posted by sp1derm00
I would STRONGLY advise against this mod... i would advise that anyone who has done this mod undo it ASAP.
I recently took my car to Performance Nissan and had to have my clutch replaced after only 18k miles on the car... the clutch was slipping daily and it was damn near impossible to get into 5th or 6th on the fwy at times.
The only thing i could think of was this mod that would cause this. I dont drive very aggressive normally.
Just my opinion.
Just got my car back today with a new stock clutch and JWT flywheel. Feels like i have to learn how to work this clutch all over again but I'm sure as hell not gonna do this mod over again.
I recently took my car to Performance Nissan and had to have my clutch replaced after only 18k miles on the car... the clutch was slipping daily and it was damn near impossible to get into 5th or 6th on the fwy at times.
The only thing i could think of was this mod that would cause this. I dont drive very aggressive normally.
Just my opinion.
Just got my car back today with a new stock clutch and JWT flywheel. Feels like i have to learn how to work this clutch all over again but I'm sure as hell not gonna do this mod over again.
03-29-2006, 12:57 PM
#223
Just to clarify for myself and others, the way I see it, we have 3 different main lines of thought.
1. Those who have done it and love it. (me included)
2. Those who have done it and are shocked to have it mysteriously go back to stock.
3. Those who have done it and a Nissan tech strongly advised not to do it.
I doubt we will ever get a solid answer whether this mod is helpful or distructive.
1. Those who have done it and love it. (me included)
2. Those who have done it and are shocked to have it mysteriously go back to stock.
3. Those who have done it and a Nissan tech strongly advised not to do it.
I doubt we will ever get a solid answer whether this mod is helpful or distructive.
03-29-2006, 02:35 PM
#224
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From my understanding, since the rod is directly linked into the master cylinder, the rod adjustments affect the hydraulics of the clutch line.
Hence when we bring the rod inwards (more threads showing), we decrease the amount of fluid held in since the rod is being retracted more on the rebound stroke of the clutch. This is why the engagement point changes and people who back it out too much can't get it into gear. Backing the rod outwards (less thread showing), increases the amount of fluid kept into the line. The extreme of this is that there is so much pressure the slave clyinder is pushing on the clutch fork without any pedal movement. This happened to me and the car would slip during hard acceleration while in gear.
The Nissan techs and FSM recommend adjustments of BOTH the clutch rod and also the stopper switch (rubber end near the top of the clutch that keeps it in the resting position).
Hence when we bring the rod inwards (more threads showing), we decrease the amount of fluid held in since the rod is being retracted more on the rebound stroke of the clutch. This is why the engagement point changes and people who back it out too much can't get it into gear. Backing the rod outwards (less thread showing), increases the amount of fluid kept into the line. The extreme of this is that there is so much pressure the slave clyinder is pushing on the clutch fork without any pedal movement. This happened to me and the car would slip during hard acceleration while in gear.
The Nissan techs and FSM recommend adjustments of BOTH the clutch rod and also the stopper switch (rubber end near the top of the clutch that keeps it in the resting position).
03-29-2006, 07:36 PM
#225
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I'm missing the bobbi pin looking piece so this isn't working for me. Maybe that piece is not important but no matter how much I turn it, the clutch is not going any lower...
03-30-2006, 08:11 AM
#226
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I've only had the Z for a week but have been moving my seat back and forth up/down to try and fix my inability to shift this beast smoothly every time. Up until i had this car i've always though i was pretty damn good at driving a stick.... This thread is a life saver and i will be performing the mod tonight, I'm not sure why i didn't think to do this myself as i've adjusted the clutch on my previous cars to get it where i liked it. I guess since its a new car i thought i needed to get used to it. I will let you guys know how it goes.....
03-30-2006, 12:34 PM
#228
I adjusted my pedal back some to alow the spring to full return the clutch to the starting position. It prety much sucks now. It's back to stock pretty much. 
In speaking with my brother he agrees with Z_Driver's info below. There is adjusting room with the pedal / clutch. HOWEVER, one must be careful to make sure you are not spinning the bearing and on the flip side, make sure the clutch is disengadged completely. Z_driver's test is good.
In speaking with my brother he agrees with Z_Driver's info below. There is adjusting room with the pedal / clutch. HOWEVER, one must be careful to make sure you are not spinning the bearing and on the flip side, make sure the clutch is disengadged completely. Z_driver's test is good.
Originally Posted by Z_Driver
Well to test bearing contact to the pressure plate fingers. You can actually feel it when you press on the pedal lightly while the motor is running in neutral. You can also hear it buzz the bearing. If you can't feel a difference you might not have enough play in there and are slipping the clutch (prob not) a bit of spinning that bearing when it shouldn't be spinning (really wears fast)
On the release side, while the car is running and at a standstill, you should be able to put the clutch in and shift through all the gears easily. If not, turn off the car and see if you can shift through the gears easily. If so, then you need to adjust it to disengage the clutch a little more.
It takes some playing with. However, there is a lot of a room for play in the Z so it's not so bad.
In my Formula it has to be just right or your not disengaging all the way and syncros start to go from the pressures your putting on them while shifting. Or your not engaging all the way/spinning or wearing that throw out bearing super fast.
Now the only other thing you have to look out for is over engagement. That is where you are disengaging the pressure plate so much off of the clutch disc that it is binding the hydraulic bearing/shift fork in the bell housing. That's not common and isn't a problem generally with our cars unless an aftermarket Clutch Cylinder has been installed.
On the release side, while the car is running and at a standstill, you should be able to put the clutch in and shift through all the gears easily. If not, turn off the car and see if you can shift through the gears easily. If so, then you need to adjust it to disengage the clutch a little more.
It takes some playing with. However, there is a lot of a room for play in the Z so it's not so bad.
In my Formula it has to be just right or your not disengaging all the way and syncros start to go from the pressures your putting on them while shifting. Or your not engaging all the way/spinning or wearing that throw out bearing super fast.
Now the only other thing you have to look out for is over engagement. That is where you are disengaging the pressure plate so much off of the clutch disc that it is binding the hydraulic bearing/shift fork in the bell housing. That's not common and isn't a problem generally with our cars unless an aftermarket Clutch Cylinder has been installed.
03-30-2006, 07:59 PM
#229
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Ok i messed with this a little bit today after work and ended up keeping it about a turn or so down.... does anyone have any throw out bearing noise? i can't remember if it was there prior to messing with this or not.... I know its normal on aftermarket clutch/flywheels, My Blitz on my 240sx was real loud but I haven't heard it on a stock clutch/flywheel?
03-31-2006, 06:36 AM
#230
Yeah, the bearing noise is normal. I could hear it the first day I brought my o5 home.
Hmm, I am still trying to find the sweet spot. I've adjusted mine to maybe a turn and a half. On testing it, my second gear is somewhat harder to get into then before. All the other gears are fine, but second has a "notch" to it sort of. hard to explain.
Has anybody else run into this?
Hmm, I am still trying to find the sweet spot. I've adjusted mine to maybe a turn and a half. On testing it, my second gear is somewhat harder to get into then before. All the other gears are fine, but second has a "notch" to it sort of. hard to explain.
Has anybody else run into this?
03-31-2006, 06:19 PM
#232
ok my update. ive adjusted my pedal couple times so far. the last time being the time were it came back up tp stock height. after torqueing down my rod nut this problem was solved. However im still getting this noise. It happens when im revving out and i push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. it sounds as if theres a buzzing sound and a vibration coming through my pedal. This is wierd because although one might think this noise is due to a potential non full seperatioon of the clutch i have a lot of play between the point of engagment and the point at which the pedal is on the floor. my engagment is near the top part of the pedal height, which is set to be even with my brake pedal. In terms of shifting the clutch adjustment has caused me no problems with getting into gear and my gears shift freely when fully depressed. I do notice however that when my pedal is fully released i can still pull it up about 3/4 inch but it wont stay up that high. perhaps this is because of the spring deisgn. If i apply slight pressure on the pedal when its engaged in gear i can also feel roughness through the pedal. Is this normal? the clutch isnt slipping and i have had no problems with slip or getting into gears. im so confused
04-16-2006, 10:21 AM
#234
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I am SO pissed off at the Nissan dealer right now...I have an '03 and the tranny started to give out at 40k so I took it into the dealer and they agreed to replace it under warranty, and advised me that the clutch disc, cover, release bearing, and flywheel were totally shot and that I needed new ones and that the parts would be $1400!!! They wanted $1100 for the FACTORY flywheel...so I said F that and bought a Fidanza and told them to put that in there instead...when I had given them the car the clutch engagement point was perfect, but when I got it back I felt like I was driving a big rig...so I looked at this thread and looked at my setup and I was infuriated!!! You lower the clutch by threading that rod further into the bronze colored fork...well my rod is BARELY threaded onto my fork now, we're talking like 1 thread in...it is only to the point where the threads start to grab and you meet the most resistance...so for the life of me I cant tighten it in those cramped conditions, I worked on it for over 3 hours and couldnt get a good enough grip to tighten it...its like someone took it off and then just barely put it back on...BASTARDS
Last edited by Daishi39; 04-16-2006 at 10:23 AM.
04-16-2006, 06:11 PM
#237
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This mod isnt going to kill your clutch...its just the most royal pain in the *** when the threads on your rod and fork are DAMAGED and cross threading and you need to use a vice grip to turn it every tiny minute turn in a cramped spot with your hands rubbing on metal and scraping and bruising and bleeding 
04-18-2006, 03:55 AM
#238
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Is there anyone who is reliable in knowledge who can say that this is ok for the clutch? Performance Nissan? Z1 motorsports? Stillen?
Last edited by bswanny; 04-18-2006 at 06:40 AM.
