High Clutch? want to lower your clutch engagement point? - Page 10 - MY350Z.COM - Nissan 350Z and 370Z Forum Discussion



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Old 11-27-2005, 03:22 PM   #181
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Hmm im going to try this tommorow as I am sick of how this clutch works but I am confused on a few parts, are there three things you can adjust? The clutch engagement point, the clutch height, and the cruise control thingie, right? I got under there and looked but I am confused on this part (as to how many things I need to fiddle with)
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Old 11-27-2005, 09:10 PM   #182
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think ill try this thanks for info!!!!!
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:31 AM   #183
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Just FYI. I've already performed this mod about a month ago. I personally would advise against it. Too much adjustment might cause you to burn out the clutch prematurely. After I performed this mod I tested it by attempting perform a few burn-outs. The clutch engagment seems to have just been enough to allow me to drive with no problem at all but when attempting to any type of aggresive launches resulted in major clutch slipping. I rest mine back to stock and dont have that problem anymore.
Again... JMHO
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Old 11-28-2005, 05:56 AM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Havok_RLS2
Just FYI. I've already performed this mod about a month ago. I personally would advise against it. Too much adjustment might cause you to burn out the clutch prematurely. After I performed this mod I tested it by attempting perform a few burn-outs. The clutch engagment seems to have just been enough to allow me to drive with no problem at all but when attempting to any type of aggresive launches resulted in major clutch slipping. I rest mine back to stock and dont have that problem anymore.
Again... JMHO
How many times did you turn the rod?
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Old 11-29-2005, 01:36 PM   #185
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Just performed the adjustment now.
Strangely though, my pedals won't go in. It's still the same height as
stock.
Only time I did manage to get in inward was when I turned the rod 4+
times, but that also made the pedal stick. It would come out just before
it makes contact with cruise control switch, and the rest of it
i have to manually pull it out.
Does that mean I have to adjust it higher? or just adjust the cruise control
button lower so that it can make full contact where the pedal stops coming up?
Any feedback would be appreciated.
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:10 PM   #186
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subscribing
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Old 12-05-2005, 12:10 PM   #187
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Damn, after I performed the mod a couple of days ago, I realized that
my pedal isn't working normal.
I tried to put it back to stock position, but I forgot to mark it and I couldn't
get it back to stock position.
I ended up taking it to the dealer where they installed my clutch, but even they
couldn't get it back to what it was.
So far I've tried adjusting it countless times, but with no luck.
The pedal feels like it's back to normal, but I can tell the spring isn't.
Damn I don't know what to do...I should've never touched it.
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Old 12-05-2005, 01:29 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsazabi
The pedal feels like it's back to normal, but I can tell the spring isn't. Damn I don't know what to do...I should've never touched it.
According to the service manual, pedal adjustment isn't even a possibile cause for a spongy clutch pedal. Our cars have a hydraulic clutch, and if you've had yours replaced recently, the installer may have not bled the lines properly (see attached).

Now, it does use a spring to return the pedal to its proper height. If that is what you are refering to then you just need to continue to raise the pedal enough until it can do so on its own. See pages 5-6, adjusting pedal height.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Pages from cl.pdf (10.6 KB, 198 views)
File Type: pdf Pages_5_6_from_Cl.pdf (45.7 KB, 316 views)
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Old 12-07-2005, 01:11 AM   #189
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OK so I've read through this whole thread and I adjusted my clutch pedal... and yes it's so much better. But it sounds like a lot of people are having problems down the road. If the clutch is self adjusting and people are reporting their pedals returning to the original positions over time that can only mean one of two things: The clutch has worn a lot... or... the clutch, being self adjusting, has compensated for the difference. Both are bad. If the clutch adjusted itself, it's unlikely you'll be able to adjust your clutch pedal back... much like drum brakes... they can adjust themselves tighter but you have to take them apart to loosen them up again. I don't know this for a fact but it would explain some of the problems people seem to have. Are there a ton of people who have had no problems at all??? I don't mean no problems over the last couple months, but no problems for a while. If Nissan techs are saying there's no adjustments POSSIBLE then what are they saying if there really is. This can't be a secret...

It seems like a simple mod... just reducing the amount of pedal travel... so the same could be accomplished by never depressing the clutch pedal all the way down or putting a piece of wood behind the pedal (just as examples). So would these things cause the clutch to come out of alignment? It doesn't seem that complicated.

Just wondering how people have been doing since making this adjustment.

Last edited by kbiz; 12-07-2005 at 01:34 AM.
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Old 12-07-2005, 07:52 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350Zenophile
According to the service manual, pedal adjustment isn't even a possibile cause for a spongy clutch pedal. Our cars have a hydraulic clutch, and if you've had yours replaced recently, the installer may have not bled the lines properly (see attached).

Now, it does use a spring to return the pedal to its proper height. If that is what you are refering to then you just need to continue to raise the pedal enough until it can do so on its own. See pages 5-6, adjusting pedal height.
Well thanks for your input 350Zenophile.
However, I believe my pedal height is pretty close to where it should be now,
but still my spring doesn't feel right.
Another big problem I'm having is that my throttle response is way less.
And my car isn't as loud (And no, I'm not being paranoid). Last time I had this problem was when my clutch
was worn
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:17 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsazabi
Well thanks for your input 350Zenophile.
However, I believe my pedal height is pretty close to where it should be now,
but still my spring doesn't feel right.
Another big problem I'm having is that my throttle response is way less.
And my car isn't as loud (And no, I'm not being paranoid). Last time I had this problem was when my clutch
was worn
Do your engine rpms rise more than they should when you accelerate? if so, then you clutch is shot. I'm guessing that's what you mean when you say "my throttle response is way less."

Sounds like you just may be rough on your clutch. How many miles did you put on the last one before it went compared with this one?
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:29 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbiz
OK so I've read through this whole thread and I adjusted my clutch pedal... and yes it's so much better. But it sounds like a lot of people are having problems down the road. If the clutch is self adjusting and people are reporting their pedals returning to the original positions over time that can only mean one of two things: The clutch has worn a lot... or... the clutch, being self adjusting, has compensated for the difference. Both are bad. If the clutch adjusted itself, it's unlikely you'll be able to adjust your clutch pedal back... much like drum brakes... they can adjust themselves tighter but you have to take them apart to loosen them up again. I don't know this for a fact but it would explain some of the problems people seem to have. Are there a ton of people who have had no problems at all??? I don't mean no problems over the last couple months, but no problems for a while. If Nissan techs are saying there's no adjustments POSSIBLE then what are they saying if there really is. This can't be a secret...

It seems like a simple mod... just reducing the amount of pedal travel... so the same could be accomplished by never depressing the clutch pedal all the way down or putting a piece of wood behind the pedal (just as examples). So would these things cause the clutch to come out of alignment? It doesn't seem that complicated.

Just wondering how people have been doing since making this adjustment.
For almost one year, I have not had any problems (or "self adjustment") on my early-'04. (Early on, I did adjust it several times to get it where I wanted it.)
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:18 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jct
For almost one year, I have not had any problems (or "self adjustment") on my early-'04. (Early on, I did adjust it several times to get it where I wanted it.)
04.5 and no problems for approaching two years!

You know what this is a perfect example of...everyone unhappy with the performance is going to immediately claim distress on the forum. Those who love it, OTOH, are going to be out enjoying a much better drive!
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:23 PM   #194
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Rock On!!! I love the clutch adjustment! It feels like the right answer...

I couldn't see any reason if you adjust it within reason that there should be any problems...

My favorite mod yet!!!
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Old 12-08-2005, 11:32 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbiz
OK so I've read through this whole thread and I adjusted my clutch pedal... and yes it's so much better. But it sounds like a lot of people are having problems down the road. If the clutch is self adjusting and people are reporting their pedals returning to the original positions over time that can only mean one of two things: The clutch has worn a lot... or... the clutch, being self adjusting, has compensated for the difference. Both are bad. If the clutch adjusted itself, it's unlikely you'll be able to adjust your clutch pedal back... much like drum brakes... they can adjust themselves tighter but you have to take them apart to loosen them up again. I don't know this for a fact but it would explain some of the problems people seem to have. Are there a ton of people who have had no problems at all??? I don't mean no problems over the last couple months, but no problems for a while. If Nissan techs are saying there's no adjustments POSSIBLE then what are they saying if there really is. This can't be a secret...

It seems like a simple mod... just reducing the amount of pedal travel... so the same could be accomplished by never depressing the clutch pedal all the way down or putting a piece of wood behind the pedal (just as examples). So would these things cause the clutch to come out of alignment? It doesn't seem that complicated.

Just wondering how people have been doing since making this adjustment.
I actually, went more than what most people are talking about here. Two things I did that is different. Mod originallly done 12-03.

1) Adjusted it so it would engage 1" off of the floor. Maybe 8 turns.
2) That brought the pedal down and off the stop so I added a return spring to pull it all the way back up to the stop. That made 1" of free play on the top.

I tested this by checking to make sure that the clutch disengaged completely. It wouldn't start to creep forwar until about 1" off the floor instead of the 3" that was stock.

Then I checked to make sure it wasn't causing the throwout bearing to be running on the fingers of the clutch. No feel of clutch fingers or slipage until 1" from the top.

Now with 15K on the adjustment. I have a smooth clutch, adjustment hasn't changed. I haven't smelled any burning friction material and it still lights them up in 1st, 2nd, get a good burn in 3rd. 4th gear chirp can only be accomplished if I dis-weight a tire but I can get one speed shifting into 4th as well in the right conditions.

I don't think you'll have any problems with longevity. However, if this thing burns out, I'm going high performance with a lightened flywheel anyways.

No worries, if it was going to slip it would have done it by now. I hit those gears pretty darn hard at times.

Enjoy the ride.
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Old 12-08-2005, 11:55 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mecinoid
I actually, went more than what most people are talking about here. Two things I did that is different. Mod originallly done 12-03.

1) Adjusted it so it would engage 1" off of the floor. Maybe 8 turns.
2) That brought the pedal down and off the stop so I added a return spring to pull it all the way back up to the stop. That made 1" of free play on the top.

I tested this by checking to make sure that the clutch disengaged completely. It wouldn't start to creep forwar until about 1" off the floor instead of the 3" that was stock.

Then I checked to make sure it wasn't causing the throwout bearing to be running on the fingers of the clutch. No feel of clutch fingers or slipage until 1" from the top.

Now with 15K on the adjustment. I have a smooth clutch, adjustment hasn't changed. I haven't smelled any burning friction material and it still lights them up in 1st, 2nd, get a good burn in 3rd. 4th gear chirp can only be accomplished if I dis-weight a tire but I can get one speed shifting into 4th as well in the right conditions.

I don't think you'll have any problems with longevity. However, if this thing burns out, I'm going high performance with a lightened flywheel anyways.

No worries, if it was going to slip it would have done it by now. I hit those gears pretty darn hard at times.

Enjoy the ride.
Very cool... I didn't go that agressive, yet... but from the factory setting anything is amazing. 1st, 2nd and 3rd are a blast!! How did you test for bearing contact on the fingers? Did you do the rolling with the car off... or putting it in gear and then out, depressing clutch pedal, releasing and putting back in gear?? I love the fact that I can soooo easily control wheel spin now. I can predictably launch without thinking twice... it took me all of a day to get used to it after almost 3 years. Freakin' wheel chirp!! I'm lovin it!
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Old 12-09-2005, 01:13 AM   #197
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Well to test bearing contact to the pressure plate fingers. You can actually feel it when you press on the pedal lightly while the motor is running in neutral. You can also hear it buzz the bearing. If you can't feel a difference you might not have enough play in there and are slipping the clutch (prob not) a bit of spinning that bearing when it shouldn't be spinning (really wears fast)

On the release side, while the car is running and at a standstill, you should be able to put the clutch in and shift through all the gears easily. If not, turn off the car and see if you can shift through the gears easily. If so, then you need to adjust it to disengage the clutch a little more.

It takes some playing with. However, there is a lot of a room for play in the Z so it's not so bad.

In my Formula it has to be just right or your not disengaging all the way and syncros start to go from the pressures your putting on them while shifting. Or your not engaging all the way/spinning or wearing that throw out bearing super fast.

Now the only other thing you have to look out for is over engagement. That is where you are disengaging the pressure plate so much off of the clutch disc that it is binding the hydraulic bearing/shift fork in the bell housing. That's not common and isn't a problem generally with our cars unless an aftermarket Clutch Cylinder has been installed.
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Old 12-09-2005, 12:03 PM   #198
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Super Sweet!!! Thanks for the info... I'm gonna be playin with that some more today.
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Old 12-18-2005, 07:01 PM   #199
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I'm new to driving manual but seem to have way more trouble on my Z then on any other car I've learned on.

This mod looks like it could be the answer but at the same point don't want to
screw up a delicate and important part of the car. I read 10 pages of commentary on this post, obviously my clutch is not operating as smoothly as I would like and it worries me.

Is this mod too risky for someone new to manual cars?

Last edited by meshugineh; 12-18-2005 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:27 PM   #200
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Ok a little more information for this thread, i initially adjusted my clutch a while back, it was very short!! but perfect so when i disengaged my clutch it would fully disengage!! Now after 2 month, i was shocked to feel my clutch pedle at its "stock height" I had the largest WTF face!! Now i just adjusted it for the second time, however this time i adjusted it more aggresivly and now the cruise control switch wont reach the bump ****, I think im gonna have to glue another bump patch onto the stocker!! Anyone have any other ideas?
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