The clutch pedal has always been a little bit higher than the brake pedal on my car since day 1. I did the adjustment, but I brought it back up to stock for the same concerns you have. Whatever you do, dont tell them that you adjusted it, because then they will probably make you pay for anything that needs repairs (if it needs repairing). Im calling tommarow to make an appt. for monday for oil consumption, and Im just going to act dumb about the clutch vibrating, shuddering, and the pedal not coming all the way back up. I just want to make it clear that the problems Im having with the clutch were NOT caused by adusting it. It did it since day 1, before I ever adjusted it. Good luck.

 

Update guys...

Went to leave with the car this morning and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor and would NOT come back up...Car also would NOT start...Had to call Infiniti Roadside Assistance...Its at the dealer now and Im playing dumb as to how it happened...They asked if I abuse the car or clutch any...And if I play around with things...I answered HELL NO to both...We'll see how this shakes out....Im worried that once they get under there and see the problem they'll know the bolt was tampered with...

 

Let us know what happens, hopefully they take care of it!!!

 

Man this mod is really freakin me out now. I was going to do it again because it's come back up to stock height, but now i'm worried. Someone mentioned that Nissan techs have voiced against this mod? Can someone elaborate on that? I'm planning on checking the service manual this weekend for any info.

oh, btw... someone posted that it kills your synchros... now that makes absolutely no sense to me. If you still disengage your clutch, now would that even affect the synchros? Only way I can think of is if you shift clutchless... which isn't what we're doing here. Thanks

ChiShi

 

UPDATEl


First - Thanks to everyone who replied and tried to help with my situation....

I got the call from the dealer today letting me know the car was ready to be picked up...He said it seems there was a problem with my clutch master cylinder...He didn't ask if I had tampered with anything and went on to say that it must have been "just a bad part"...I got in the car to drive home and I have a few feelings....

1 - The clutch came back to me MUCH softer...At first I wasn't sure if I liked it...But after driving for about 45 mins I realize I love the way it feels...No longer need super man leg strength to push the clutch in...

2 - They NEVER changed my clutch engagement point...Meaning it is EXACTLY where I had adjusted it to...Damn thing feels great..I expected to get in and have it adjusted back to stock and feel like I was driving a big rig again...However that was not the case...It has a small amount of free play but its nice and close to the engagment point...The vibration is gone...The different tune from the engine is gone...So it seems perfect right now...a'm almost glad I went through all that...

 

this was great i can shift much easier and driving is much more fun. Took a gt 06' from a dig yesterday man it really brought out the full potential of my jwt clutch its a much different ride now. thanks guys!

 

I did this adjustment and it felt great, but after about 70-100 miles or so, it felt like it went completely back to the way it was if not worse... i dont want to adjust it again, because i dont know whats happening... can you adjust the jwt clutch to whatever you want??

 

bump

 

This mod changes the pedal height and the engagement point. The people reporting having their pedal stuck down and their clutch burning when doing a burn out either lowered it too much, or beat the car too bad. I have had my stock pedal height stick and burn when doing stuff with my car.
The way to know if you went too far is to put your car on a flat surface and shift into first with the pedal all the way down. If it is hard to get into first, or your car starts moving even slightly, your clutch plates are still touching with the pedal fully depressed so you will wear out your clutch and synchros.
The rod you are turning connects directly to the clutch master cylinder. when you turn it, it does not change the properties of the cylinder except it will now have less travel before the pedal hits the floor. when the pedal is up, the clutch is completely engaged no matter how low the pedal is. so the key is to have the pedal high enough that it can supply sufficient fluid to lift the clutch plate up. IE, you want the piston stroke to be long enough to lift the clutch.

In conclusion, if your pedal is up, the clutch is 100% engaged. if your pedal is down and your clutch is not engaging at all, and you do not roll on a flat surface, you have done this right and should be fine. If you made the stroke too short, you will not lift your clutch plate far enough and you will burn out your clutch over time. Dont do it if you are not confident about it.

 

ok so I just performed this mod, took me about 10mins...

I have a base 06, so i had no cruise control toggle but instead had a bolt to stop the pedal from traveling any further.

I turn the rod once counter clockwise and at first it didnt seem like it did anything but I test drove it anyways, and wow, feels like my old honda. It's not as stiff but at least the place where it 'catches' is more predictable and consistent.

Didn't know how much of a difference one revolution made. I wanted to make it lower but after reading horror stories, i saw that under 2 revolutions is pretty safe in order to not wear out the clutch so one rev must be well under that threshold.

Hopefully I did everyhting right, I'll update if things go wrong (as they usually do.)

(btw, I put it in first with cluctch all the way down and it does not move at all so I'm ASSUMING this means it is FULLY disengaged. Also, i read somewhere in this thread that regardless of where you move the clutch, when you do not press on it, it is FULLY ENGAGED regardless of adjustment, meaning there should be zero slippage.)

 

this mod is awesome!!

 

I'm resurecting old stuff here, but I was looking in the service manual trying to make this same adjustment! The decided to see what I can find here.

The service manual spells it out pretty good too. Though they have physical measurements to adjust too instead of going for "comfort."

I read some concerns about the cruise control not working after this mod. In the service manual the first step is to loosen the CC cancel switch lock nut... It's pretty simple from there.

Mike

 

am having problems taking the those fusebox out.. can someone help me? am noob

 

subscribing.... will try this tomorrow, hope it works! I desperately need a lower engagement point for my clutch

 

i did this mod when they replaced my clutch... ittakes a few days to get used to the lower engagement point, but taking off from a dead stop is much smoother now.... nice and very easy mod....

 

WOW i did it today its fantastic! so smooooooooth

 

I wondered about this, but didn't think it would solve my problems. After enduring gear grinding and slow shifting that got worst for over a year, I'm finally sane again.

What a difference a few turns make, and 2nd gear isn't jerking anymore! I'm also able to shift even quicker!

Phuong (Can sleep well, and is eager to drive again.)

 

wow...seems like lots of people have loved this mod...

i think im going to try it when i get free time after finals.

 

I had it turned the wrong direction so the engagement delay was worst. When ever the clutch pedal fully let up the car jerked in every gear, but there was no play with the pedal. Once set properly, there was play like before. It was a tad deeper, but that lets me know the ending engagement point was lower.

I was driving smooth in every gear, shifting quick, starting quicker from standstill, and no random gear grinding. Next up is to figure out how to get a buttery smooth gearbox ;-)

 

Good luck on that!!! Prob have to trade in for a Honduh. I actually like the notchyness, feels more "sporty". And you definatly know when you are in gear.