Can you be more specific as there are three or more types of Nismo cams available?

From what I've read, their most aggressive cam is about as aggressive as it gets for the VQ35 so I am a little confused.

Either way, I am not using them, but it's not because I didn't want to.

 

he never actually said which ones, he just said dont use nismo cams if you want ot get high N/A horse power

and this is coming form a guy who will be running them this year in his racing season(tho he was allowed to modifiy them )

 

Nismo stage II cams are around a 280 or 282, which is pretty big.

 

What kills me about the 300hp debate is that the Porsche GT3 3.6L gets 320+ to the wheels stock to our 240. It takes the whole package when doing N/A and so far its just been a patchwork. I personally am really looking forward to the Cosworth heads that are supposed to be coming out, because they usually do their research.

Ultimately, I think that the VQ needs a fully engineered solution to have the capicity to rev higher and be able to take advantage of a higher redline. That is a tall order for any motor.

 

If you were to recommend a production cam what would it be? Or would you go custom grind?

 

Intake and alota stickers.Yellow or weapon r seem to give best results.

JK Buy a stroker kit.Think i saw one on hopup.Some radical cams and get it breathing nice and 300 should be np.The only problem with all this is fi would be alot cheaper.Stillen safe 300.

 

 

The question is, what exactly is the purpose of having the 300whp? Don't get me wrong that would be awesome, but is it just to say I have 300whp or to be the fastest NA car, or do you want serious performance to track it?

Originally I was all about the bolt-ons and the turbos or superchargers or serious engine work, which are great and provide lots of power and fun if done correctly and properly maintained. Now I look at the drivability of a car more so than it's ability to go fast. Because anyone can go fast in a straight line! It takes a bit of drivetrain and suspension tuning to make a track worthy or back country winding road champ. Otherwise just get a hot-rod and go to the drag strip. My mods on a car would be forged wheels (strong and reduces unsprung weight) and high-performance tires (tires can make a huge difference if you get the right ones), then the suspension (coilovers, sway bars etc.) Upgrade the brakes if necessary because speed is useless if you can't stop! Next I would get a light-weight clutch/flywheel combo (helps free up power to the wheels and reduced lag from the crank) and then I would get a performance differential preferably Quaife.

After all that then I might consider adding some of the other bolt-ons that are supposed to increase power. There is an article in Speed Magazine with boosted and supercharged 350Z's with other misc bolt-ons, tires, wheels, suspension mods and so forth and they tested all of them and in the end a car (Mike's from Performance Nissan) without turbos or supercharger (significantly less rwhp) had the fastest lap times because of the effort spent to set up the cars suspension/wheels/tires and drivetrain correctly.

just my 2 cents

 

I think the reason why 300whp is such a big deal is because it really hasnt been done with bolt-ons. Just like back in the days where turbo guys wanted 1000whp, they kept trying new things and different parts to accomplish their goal... But you are absolutely right about dialing in suspension for track use, it makes a world of difference.

 

Nice done12many2!!!

I cannot wait to see your result... as my result might be just a fraction higher than what you will have, but in australia, our dyno machines are way different from you guys, so the readings aren't the same... I have only got 212.5rwKW @ 7600rpm with the following items... (nearly 290rwHP)

- Nizpro (SPS) 11.5:1 0.002" overbored pistons
- Carrillo A beam rods
- Balanced/blue printed bottom end
- Ferrea Intake valuves and exhaust valves
- Ferrea valve springs and titanium retainers
- Ferrea valve guides and valve seals
- Modified cylinder heads (polished and ported slightly)
- Modified combustion chambers
- Modified bearings
- Nismo Spec 1 camshafts (In:275, ex:256)
- Nismo VTC pulleys
- Nismo flywheel
- Fluidampr silicone fluid pulley
- 2005 oil pump
- 2005 lower intake plenum
- 84mm intake pipe with integrated MAF sensor
- Modify airbox with 118mm bell mouth
- MD plenum spacers
- MoTeC M600 ECU with cam control module and sensors
- Fujitsubo headers
- Crawford cats
- Custom Y pipe with large collectors
- Nismo cat back
- Nismo oil cooler
- 8000rpm rev limiter
- And some other small things

Best luck mate! and keep me posted on what you have got!

cheers,

richie

 

I guarantee if you bring your car to the US that puppy would hit way over 300rwhp on a dynojet. Your build up and parts list is the most impressive I have seen on this forum. I bet she sounds amazing.

 

If you look at his pre and post dyno numbers, he gained around 80hp. So if he pulled a standard 240 whp stock he'd be around 320 whp now.
Not too shabby.
Will

 

wow def impressive richie! the guys are def rite... i know you're past the 300rwhp over here in the states.

 

I think that 300whp is very achievable. However, i am still amazed how I can open a magazine and see a 4cyclinder s2000 with 311whp and we struggle to hit 300. Obviously rpms play into this but i would think that displacement would make a huge difference.

 

Here's the link.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/173097-just-dropped-off-my-car-at-scott-performance.html

 

i got an s2k( 2nd one) are u saying 311whp N/A s2000 cause my friend that would take tons of money. hell vortech/comptech supercharged s2k tuned nets u about 297whp.

 

the key to gaining hp is by holding tq at higher rpms. increase your redline and get the most aggressive cams you can find. dont go for these mild cams we have, get a set that barely even idles at 1000 rpms, lopey as F*. then do extensive headwork and increase redline to ~8k rpms by rebuilding the motor.

also free up as much rotating mass as possible, full titanium internals, lightweight crank, flywheel, and pulleys. use better oil (yes this can make a difference, however small) a lighter weight flywheel and light rims.

i think the general approach has been to just attack the air fuel components, but with enough money anything is possible.

 

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