UR vs JWT flywheel
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How many pounds does the stock flywheel weigh? My other question is will a lighter flywheel actually give you more horsepower/torque and if so do any of ya'll have dyno's to prove it? I've been reading around and 1 website, it stated 10-30hp increase. I don't see anything above 10hp for a N/A car. Right now I'm in the process of doing as much as I can to get the most out of my car N/A minus the headers because I'm still undecided on weather staying N/A or going F/I. What is the highest hp on a N/A car have any of ya'll seen with dynos to prove it?
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It doesn't add HP it just creates unsprung weight for your car giving you the feeling of more HP & Torque. I believe the lighter weight helps with the % HP loss from the drive train than helping you gain any hp.
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I would also recommend the JWT flywheel/clutch combo myself just like Rick. In my car, there is very little chatter, if any at all. Plus, you'll notice a MUCH BETTER throttle response throughout the rpm band. Finally, the quicker response of the flywheel makes it alot easier to rev match when you're either heel-and-toeing or other forms of rev matching.
Last note...See you at the Z/G meet this Sat Rick!!! Thx for puttin it together. I'll bring my g sedan though because I think I have to take more than one person unfortunately
Last note...See you at the Z/G meet this Sat Rick!!! Thx for puttin it together. I'll bring my g sedan though because I think I have to take more than one person unfortunately
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How much of a drive train loss does the stock z have as oppose to having a lighter flywheel and what would the drive train loss be with the lighter flywheel? Is it really necessary to change the clutch with the flywheel? I mean would an upgraded clutch make that much of a difference. Is it like how quick it would engage the flywheel or how hard? I'm just trying to understand the mechanics here of changing the flywheel as oppose to change the flywheel and clutch as a combination together.
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the logic behind changing the clutch and flywheel together is combining labor costs. A flywheel install takes ~4 hours. Add a clutch into that and it takes the same ~4 hours. Do one or the other now, and then one or the other later, and you are paying someone to do essentially the same job twice.
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do the entire install at the same time....you'll save $400 in labor!
also, the JUN is the best overall flywheel IMO simply because its forged chromoly (not aluminum) so its less likely to warp under heat/pressure and also comes balanced from the factory, wheres others might not, causing even more "chatter". It's also a 1-piece design so it can be resurfaced if needed
also, the JUN is the best overall flywheel IMO simply because its forged chromoly (not aluminum) so its less likely to warp under heat/pressure and also comes balanced from the factory, wheres others might not, causing even more "chatter". It's also a 1-piece design so it can be resurfaced if needed
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
the logic behind changing the clutch and flywheel together is combining labor costs. A flywheel install takes ~4 hours. Add a clutch into that and it takes the same ~4 hours. Do one or the other now, and then one or the other later, and you are paying someone to do essentially the same job twice.
Thanks! Does the upgraded clutch and flywheel just engage faster or harder than the stock flywheel and clutch? Is this the reason why peoples change both of them? How much of a drive train loss does the stock z have as oppose to having a lighter flywheel and what would the drive train loss be with the lighter flywheel?
Last edited by southern_info; 11-17-2005 at 10:13 AM.
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How about headers? Is there money saved on doing the flywheel as well when doing headers? Or are they not in the same area?
Originally Posted by HarvesterUT
do the entire install at the same time....you'll save $400 in labor!
also, the JUN is the best overall flywheel IMO simply because its forged chromoly (not aluminum) so its less likely to warp under heat/pressure and also comes balanced from the factory, wheres others might not, causing even more "chatter". It's also a 1-piece design so it can be resurfaced if needed
also, the JUN is the best overall flywheel IMO simply because its forged chromoly (not aluminum) so its less likely to warp under heat/pressure and also comes balanced from the factory, wheres others might not, causing even more "chatter". It's also a 1-piece design so it can be resurfaced if needed
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i talked to a G driver with the jwt clutch and ur flywheel. he agrees that the ur flywheel makes less noise than the jwt. i heard his car at idle and i could barely hear any chatter at all from the outside. i will go with jwt clutch and ur flywheel when i finaly get totaly sick of the stock clutch.
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