How-To: Crank Pulley Install
03-21-2006, 04:49 PM
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How-To: Crank Pulley Install
Fluidampr pulley was in the neighborhood of $350, from Summit Racing. Kudos to them for free shipping and 2-day UPS service. Also gave me a free hat – wooooot!
Firstly, unplug the fans before removal. Fortunately for me, the inner fender was already removed (or rather, still haven’t gotten around to replacing it), I so I reach under and unplug. This may be easier for someone to do while the car is in the air.
Remove the fan assembly using a 10mm socket (attached to the top of the radiator on both sides). I also removed the upper radiator hose from the radiator, and removed the radiator overflow (10mm bolt) to expedite the removal.
Idler pulleys are loosened in (2) steps. There is an idler pulley for each set of belts. First, using a 14mm socket, loosen the nut on the face of the pulley:
Secondly, using a 12mm socket, loosen the pulley tension nut (as shown in picture), may take several counterclockwise turns, but you’ll slowly see the pulley move downward, thus lessening the tension on the belt. Repeat these steps for the second idler pulley.
Seems I may have found why my A/C wasn’t working so well at times…
Using a 19mm socket and a breaker bar (since this was a one-man job), I followed the installation instructions from the KJR Crank pulley: Put a 19mm socket on the bolt holding the crank pulley on, slide a breaker bar over the end of your ratchet, and rest the bar on the floor. Position the bar in such a way that the bar will rest against the floor and not be able to jump around. (VISUAL: If you’re looking at the front of the motor, the breaker bar would set at about the 5 o’clock position (driver’s side)). Get in the car, quickly just turn the key as if you’re starting the car. DO NOT ACTUALLY START THE CAR; if this happens shut it off as fast as you can. It may take more than one click to break the bolt loose. Took me about 4 flicks of the key.
As you can see, I’ve found my cause of the pulley wobble and clicking noises:
I took the time to replace the front crankshaft seal, which is a helluva deal from Performance Nissan at $6 (paid $12 from my local dealer – pigs!) It’s like a big “O” ring; I carefully inserted a screwdriver and popped it out. Replacing it was a matter of carefully placing it back into position, pushing it in my thumbs, and tapping it gently all the way around the perimeter with a flat-faced object so that it sat flush with the block, taking great care not to hit the crank itself. This is what it looks like with the seal removed:
If you refer to the first picture, there is a notch, or a ‘key’ in the pulley, that will align with a notch in the crank. Place the pulley on the crank, and rotate it around until you feel it catch on the key, then push it onto the crank. While allegedly it should slide on without excess force, I ended up having to tap mine on with a small hammer, then using the bolt and tightening it to make sure it slide completely onto the crankshaft.
Goodyear belts from Auto were $32 total. Place them back on their respective pulleys, and then tighten the belts in reverse order: use the 12mm bolt to adjust the idler pulley up until tension is satisfactory, and then tighten the 14mm bolt on the face of the idler pulley. Repeat for each set of belts.
Re-install the fan assembly, plug in the electrical, reconnect your upper radiator hose and radiator overflow. Start the car and double-check the things look to be in working order. Double check for tools under the hood before closing. Remember to check your belts after a couple (hundred?) miles to assure proper tension.
Firstly, unplug the fans before removal. Fortunately for me, the inner fender was already removed (or rather, still haven’t gotten around to replacing it), I so I reach under and unplug. This may be easier for someone to do while the car is in the air.
Remove the fan assembly using a 10mm socket (attached to the top of the radiator on both sides). I also removed the upper radiator hose from the radiator, and removed the radiator overflow (10mm bolt) to expedite the removal.
Idler pulleys are loosened in (2) steps. There is an idler pulley for each set of belts. First, using a 14mm socket, loosen the nut on the face of the pulley:
Secondly, using a 12mm socket, loosen the pulley tension nut (as shown in picture), may take several counterclockwise turns, but you’ll slowly see the pulley move downward, thus lessening the tension on the belt. Repeat these steps for the second idler pulley.
Seems I may have found why my A/C wasn’t working so well at times…
Using a 19mm socket and a breaker bar (since this was a one-man job), I followed the installation instructions from the KJR Crank pulley: Put a 19mm socket on the bolt holding the crank pulley on, slide a breaker bar over the end of your ratchet, and rest the bar on the floor. Position the bar in such a way that the bar will rest against the floor and not be able to jump around. (VISUAL: If you’re looking at the front of the motor, the breaker bar would set at about the 5 o’clock position (driver’s side)). Get in the car, quickly just turn the key as if you’re starting the car. DO NOT ACTUALLY START THE CAR; if this happens shut it off as fast as you can. It may take more than one click to break the bolt loose. Took me about 4 flicks of the key.
As you can see, I’ve found my cause of the pulley wobble and clicking noises:
I took the time to replace the front crankshaft seal, which is a helluva deal from Performance Nissan at $6 (paid $12 from my local dealer – pigs!) It’s like a big “O” ring; I carefully inserted a screwdriver and popped it out. Replacing it was a matter of carefully placing it back into position, pushing it in my thumbs, and tapping it gently all the way around the perimeter with a flat-faced object so that it sat flush with the block, taking great care not to hit the crank itself. This is what it looks like with the seal removed:
If you refer to the first picture, there is a notch, or a ‘key’ in the pulley, that will align with a notch in the crank. Place the pulley on the crank, and rotate it around until you feel it catch on the key, then push it onto the crank. While allegedly it should slide on without excess force, I ended up having to tap mine on with a small hammer, then using the bolt and tightening it to make sure it slide completely onto the crankshaft.
Goodyear belts from Auto were $32 total. Place them back on their respective pulleys, and then tighten the belts in reverse order: use the 12mm bolt to adjust the idler pulley up until tension is satisfactory, and then tighten the 14mm bolt on the face of the idler pulley. Repeat for each set of belts.
Re-install the fan assembly, plug in the electrical, reconnect your upper radiator hose and radiator overflow. Start the car and double-check the things look to be in working order. Double check for tools under the hood before closing. Remember to check your belts after a couple (hundred?) miles to assure proper tension.
03-21-2006, 07:32 PM
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Nice write-up.
I almost want to do this myself. The only thing holding me back was the possibility of harmonics destroying the bearings and journals by using a solid, undampened pulley. Does this pulley you installed weigh less than stock, smaller diameter, etc.
Why did you replace the stock pulley? Did you replace it thinking that was the source of your noise issue or is this a "lightened" but dampened pulley for performance?
I almost want to do this myself. The only thing holding me back was the possibility of harmonics destroying the bearings and journals by using a solid, undampened pulley. Does this pulley you installed weigh less than stock, smaller diameter, etc.
Why did you replace the stock pulley? Did you replace it thinking that was the source of your noise issue or is this a "lightened" but dampened pulley for performance?
03-21-2006, 07:39 PM
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Pulley was remarkably heavy when I first opened it, but come to find out it's about the same weight as OEM (maybe 3 - 5 lbs?). Same diameter as OEM.
The original want for replacing the pulley was because of the oil dumping out the front. After researching the issue, it seemed that other owners were reporting cracked pulleys assoc. with pulley wobble (which I was having) and oil leakage, thus I was in the market for a new pulley. I stumbled across another thread about a Fluidampr pulley, did more research about harmonic dampeners, found that it may be more appropriate for high-torque applications such as my own.
I honestly didn't think the noise was assoc. with the pulley - it was a hope and a prayer, however; seems to have worked in my favor today.
It does make a difference in quality of sound/feel. Don't think it was a power mod, but certainly a quality maintainance mod!
The original want for replacing the pulley was because of the oil dumping out the front. After researching the issue, it seemed that other owners were reporting cracked pulleys assoc. with pulley wobble (which I was having) and oil leakage, thus I was in the market for a new pulley. I stumbled across another thread about a Fluidampr pulley, did more research about harmonic dampeners, found that it may be more appropriate for high-torque applications such as my own.
I honestly didn't think the noise was assoc. with the pulley - it was a hope and a prayer, however; seems to have worked in my favor today.
It does make a difference in quality of sound/feel. Don't think it was a power mod, but certainly a quality maintainance mod!
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01-15-2011, 01:42 PM
#13
I tried today to remove my stock pulley in order to install a lightweight crank pulley. 3 hours later, no dice.
I used a 1/2" breaker bar and 19mm socket WITH a floor jack handle. I weigh 200 lbs and I was leaning and pushing. I could have pushed harder but I was afraid to break something. The pulley was turning some and felt as if it wanted to bounce back. Is this normal?
I applied heat to the bolt and tried again. Same result.
I lowered the lift and turned the ignition over SEVERAL times. STILL, the bolt is tight as hell. NOTHING worked.
It appears that the AC condenser is made into the radiator. I'm not trying to remove the radiator and have the refrigerant evacuated in order to get an impact gun in there.
I used a 1/2" breaker bar and 19mm socket WITH a floor jack handle. I weigh 200 lbs and I was leaning and pushing. I could have pushed harder but I was afraid to break something. The pulley was turning some and felt as if it wanted to bounce back. Is this normal?
I applied heat to the bolt and tried again. Same result.
I lowered the lift and turned the ignition over SEVERAL times. STILL, the bolt is tight as hell. NOTHING worked.
It appears that the AC condenser is made into the radiator. I'm not trying to remove the radiator and have the refrigerant evacuated in order to get an impact gun in there.
01-15-2011, 01:55 PM
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you have to remove the radiator assembly and disconnect the pressure switch on condensor along with 1 10mm bolt on the high pressure line and it will fold up out of place, it usually takes an impact gun with 1100 foot pounds and they come off very easy
01-15-2011, 05:07 PM
#15
So I will have to have the AC system recharged as well if I use the impact gun on this? 1100 lb/ft. is a crap ton of torque. But I believe it will be required. With the breaker bar on the floor, the car just felt like it tried to raise up when I hit the ignition. The bolt just laughed.
Last edited by Steve-O Z33; 01-15-2011 at 05:14 PM.
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350z, cracking, crank, crankpulley, diy, engine, exhaust, install, lightweight, long, main, my350z, nissan, pulley, pulleyrepeated, undampened
