When should i get my first oil change?
i still havent done my first oil change right now i have 2900 miles also should i run synthetic some ppl say its good for some engines and doesnt really help others what do u guys think thanks
here's my $0.02 worth.
I am going to change the oil at 1200 miles. The manual states the break-in period as being 1200 miles. I don't know the quality of the oil the factory puts in, but I'm sure it's good enough for the break-in period and not a whole lot more.
The owner's manual suggests mineral based oil as long as it is within the correct API and SAE viscoscity ratings. 5W-30 is recommended for all ambient temps; 10W-30 and 10W-40 is good if your temps do not drop below 0 degrees F.
I will be using a synthetic oil. I used Mobil 1 in my previous vehicles. I'll use it again in the Z, but I am looking at Red Line and Amsoil as alternatives.
You will not see any performance gains from synthetic or mineral oil. I choose to use synthetic becuase it does not break down as fast as mineral oil. My Z will see at least 6 track events a year, so I want the added protection offered by the synthetics.
Hope that helps.
PeteH
ps.... you can download a PDF of the owner's manual at www.courtesyparts.com
I am going to change the oil at 1200 miles. The manual states the break-in period as being 1200 miles. I don't know the quality of the oil the factory puts in, but I'm sure it's good enough for the break-in period and not a whole lot more.
The owner's manual suggests mineral based oil as long as it is within the correct API and SAE viscoscity ratings. 5W-30 is recommended for all ambient temps; 10W-30 and 10W-40 is good if your temps do not drop below 0 degrees F.
I will be using a synthetic oil. I used Mobil 1 in my previous vehicles. I'll use it again in the Z, but I am looking at Red Line and Amsoil as alternatives.
You will not see any performance gains from synthetic or mineral oil. I choose to use synthetic becuase it does not break down as fast as mineral oil. My Z will see at least 6 track events a year, so I want the added protection offered by the synthetics.
Hope that helps.
PeteH
ps.... you can download a PDF of the owner's manual at www.courtesyparts.com
Read the owners manual: 3 months or 3750 miles then 6 months or 7500 miles
Choice of oil is subjective. What ever you feel comfortable with. If you follow the service guidelines it won't really matter.
Choice of oil is subjective. What ever you feel comfortable with. If you follow the service guidelines it won't really matter.
the old theory is to remove metal particles from the break-in period of the engine.
Even if in today engines this is not trus (the metal particles), it seems to make logical sense and for $30 a minimal expense.
I plan to switch to Mobil 1 at 5000, since I got my 1,200 change for free.
Even if in today engines this is not trus (the metal particles), it seems to make logical sense and for $30 a minimal expense.
I plan to switch to Mobil 1 at 5000, since I got my 1,200 change for free.
Do not i repeat Do not go to synthetic oil until after 12,000 miles. The Z motor has chrome molly piston rings. It takes at least 12,000 to get the rings broken in and properly seated. I would then switch to synthetic oil. The point of synthetic oil is to decrease the friction. If you don't have the friction to break in the motor it will take longer. I would suggest using your dealers oil until you hit 12,000 miles. You will most likely get blow by in the motor by switching to synthetic that early.
thanks,
Greg
thanks,
Greg
If you are planning on doing regular track events, even just a few a year, I would make an oil cooler kit a top priority, in addition to synthetic oil. Basically, you want to protect your bearings at all cost, except Nismo's 
I'd also be very interested in whether we need a baffled oil pan to fight oil starvation. Anyone know if this could be an issue with the VQ?
I'd be especially interested when getting ready to run upgraded suspensions and R compound tires.
Fly

I'd also be very interested in whether we need a baffled oil pan to fight oil starvation. Anyone know if this could be an issue with the VQ?
I'd be especially interested when getting ready to run upgraded suspensions and R compound tires.
Fly
Trending Topics
This is taken from Moto Man' s sites about Engine Break in and it definately couldn't hurt. I've never heard of an engine that broke because the oil was changed to often.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Viewer Questions:
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??
A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Viewer Questions:
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??
A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
i just did it at 1370 miles (regular oil). I was just trying to wait until after 1200 break-in. Not sure when to do next one, thinking about 3500 or so. i'm thinking about going to Mobile 1 then but will be doing research along the way. interesting what gfornal and PerfectOddz said.
Originally posted by PerfectOddz
This is taken from Moto Man' s sites about Engine Break in and it definately couldn't hurt. I've never heard of an engine that broke because the oil was changed to often.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Viewer Questions:
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??
A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
This is taken from Moto Man' s sites about Engine Break in and it definately couldn't hurt. I've never heard of an engine that broke because the oil was changed to often.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Viewer Questions:
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??
A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
I worked as a certified auto mechanic, and re-ringed several "new" engines that changed to synthetic almost immediatly..for some time, and several visits from factory tech rep. to sort this out, but ultimatly this was determined to be the one factor all of the engines had in common. I have a friend who was regional sales manager for Sunnen (the honing people) who worked with many Indy, NASCAR, etc teams on cylinder prep. he says ring break in is more like 30 seconds. Just my 2 cents.
Last edited by cheeves; Feb 15, 2003 at 08:52 PM.
I change my own and always use Mobile 1. Used it on all my cars and never have a breakdown in my last 10 Nissan cars. I still can't find the filter though. Duh!
I changed oil at 250, 500, 1000, 1500, and 3000. Now im on a 3000 mile cycle, my next change will be at 6000, then 9000, etc. I'll probably switch to Mobile 1 on my 9000, or 12,000 mile change. I've never seen an engine get damaged from changing the oil to often. 
-DrCold

-DrCold
I went through 3 engines on my MR2 spyder using Mobile 1. Each time the engine went it started using oil first. I think I never let the engine break in properly by using sythetic, and the rings never seated. I could be wrong, but Im not taking the chance. Im sticking with good ol dyno juice.
Originally posted by DrCold
I changed oil at 250, 500, 1000, 1500, and 3000. Now im on a 3000 mile cycle, my next change will be at 6000, then 9000, etc. I'll probably switch to Mobile 1 on my 9000, or 12,000 mile change. I've never seen an engine get damaged from changing the oil to often.
-DrCold
I changed oil at 250, 500, 1000, 1500, and 3000. Now im on a 3000 mile cycle, my next change will be at 6000, then 9000, etc. I'll probably switch to Mobile 1 on my 9000, or 12,000 mile change. I've never seen an engine get damaged from changing the oil to often.

-DrCold
Just my opinion but I think you wasted your money about 3 times but maybe your engine will last 500K miles and I'll be completely wrong.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




