Rear Cylinder Coolant Bypass Modification
#61
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Originally Posted by MoodDude
Hmmm - I am wonder why you need this, I am FI and Track my car and have NEVER had a temperature problem, even in the hot Georgia summer? Maybe I am just lucky, I don't know, but even when it was 97 F my oil temp never got above 190F and my water temp never got above the half way mark, and that was stressing the engine for over 20 min constant.
Plus, coolant cooling comes from the radiator, your engine under a given load condition will give you the same heat to the water regardless of this passage. Now if you are saying that there is a problem of a hot spot in the engine, than I can understand this mod.
But, if you had coolant temp problems before this, most likely you will still have them after unless you do something to increase the cooling of the coolant.
Still think the best cooling mod for FI is an oil cooler!
Plus, coolant cooling comes from the radiator, your engine under a given load condition will give you the same heat to the water regardless of this passage. Now if you are saying that there is a problem of a hot spot in the engine, than I can understand this mod.
But, if you had coolant temp problems before this, most likely you will still have them after unless you do something to increase the cooling of the coolant.
Still think the best cooling mod for FI is an oil cooler!
Mike
Last edited by UK-Nissan; 06-22-2006 at 02:12 PM.
#62
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Originally Posted by UK-Nissan
It depends upon core shift in the head I suspect, also if you reduce the back-pressure on the impeller then the flow will increase. Also there is an oil to water cooler already built in.
Mike
Mike
#63
Originally Posted by MoodDude
If you increase flow than it make work. And your oil to water cooler is exactly why you install an separate oil cooler and guess what, your oil stays at the correct temperature and so does you coolant.
But the Oil Cooler will not help the Z motor when rapid heat build up occurs where in almost an instant the temp guage shoots up the dial.
The reason for this rapid rise in temp is useually caused by compression gasses getting into the water chamber through the head gasket in the 2 rear cylinders but mostly the passengers side (drivers side here in Oz)
The reason in my case has been bad tune & therefore detonation in this area. Upon motor stripdown the the headgaskets show signs of movement.
The cyl head strengthening & water by pass mods are attempts at alleviating a known problem in extreme use applications.
Nissan has seen fit to use the new rear water manifold & water outlet in the Pathfinder as this vehicle could see extreme conditions of overloading, a condition that is impossible with the Z
#64
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Any updates on this kit, are people still using it and recommend it?
Is this the same kit as forged sells, alittle cheaper
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3011
Is this the same kit as forged sells, alittle cheaper
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=3011
Last edited by mw9; 09-10-2011 at 05:03 AM.
#66
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A buddy of mine has this mod but has issues connecting the watertemp sensor connector and the nock sensor connector.
They are just too close by to one another and when putting them on they hit.
Even after removing some meat of the connectors they still won't fitt.
After a surch on google there seem to be no discussion on this matter. Has anyone delt with this issue....??
They are just too close by to one another and when putting them on they hit.
Even after removing some meat of the connectors they still won't fitt.
After a surch on google there seem to be no discussion on this matter. Has anyone delt with this issue....??
#69
I had this done on my stroker. I have a larger Mishimoto radiator, Forged fans & shroud, a medium sized SETRAB oil cooler and so far am actually running a few degrees warmer (since December in under 80 degree weather) I expect to see good reduction in my 230 coolant temps when the Phoenix summer hits and it is 115+.
#70
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its do-able with the engine still in the car, you just need to remove the plenum and perhaps the lower collector to have enough room to work with. Your also going to have to move some cables around and do some slight modifications but its fairly straight forward to an experienced mechanic.
#71
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I had this done on my stroker. I have a larger Mishimoto radiator, Forged fans & shroud, a medium sized SETRAB oil cooler and so far am actually running a few degrees warmer (since December in under 80 degree weather) I expect to see good reduction in my 230 coolant temps when the Phoenix summer hits and it is 115+.
#72
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its do-able with the engine still in the car, you just need to remove the plenum and perhaps the lower collector to have enough room to work with. Your also going to have to move some cables around and do some slight modifications but its fairly straight forward to an experienced mechanic.
#73
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/5...-build-17.html
Post 338 shows it attached.
#74
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It was part of a build.
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/5...-build-17.html
Post 338 shows it attached.
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/5...-build-17.html
Post 338 shows it attached.
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