Where can I find the procedure to re-fill the auto transmission fluid? I know that Nissan doesn't want anybody but them to do it but I'm not going to let them anyway. Is the procedure here somewhere? Yes, I searched but didn't find it.

I have a service manual in .pdf format but I don't think it is a complete version. It doesn't have this, for instance, or things like torque specs. Can I buy the real service manual that the Nissan techs use?

I want to yank out my valve body and send it to Sharif for an upgrade.

Tx
Ken

 

Yes, you can get the "real" service manual from the Nissan site. Sign up for a 1 day access ($19.95) then download the PDF files that make up the manual.

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/nissan/

Here's the fluid change procedure from the FSM:

A/T FLUID PFP:KLE40
Changing A/T Fluid ACS003S7
1. Warm up ATF.
2. Stop engine.
3. Loosen the level gauge bolt.
4. Drain ATF from drain plug and refill with new ATF. Always refill
same volume with drained fluid.

To replace the ATF, pour in new fluid at the A/T fluid charging
pipe with the engine idling and at the same time drain the old
fluid from the radiator cooler hose return side.

When the color of the fluid coming out is about the same as
the color of the new fluid, the replacement is complete. The
amount of A/T fluid to use should be 30 to 50% increase of
the stipulated amount.
A/T fluid: Genuine NISSAN Matic J ATF
Fluid capacity: 10.3 (10-7/8 US qt, 9-1/8 lmp qt)
CAUTION:

Use only Genuine NISSAN Matic J ATF. Do not mix with other fluid.

Using A/T fluid other than Genuine NISSAN Matic J ATF will cause deterioration in driveability
and automatic transmission durability, and may damage the automatic transmission, which is
not covered by the NISSAN new vehicle limited warranty.

When filling ATF, take care not to splash heat generating parts such as exhaust with ATF.

Do not reuse drain plug gasket.
Drain plug:
: 34 N·m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ft-lb)
5. Run engine at idle speed for 5 minutes.
6. Check A/T fluid level and condition. Refer to AT-12, "Checking A/T Fluid" . If A/T fluid is still dirty, repeat
step 2 through 5.
7. Install the removed A/T fluid level gauge in the A/T fluid charging pipe.
8. Tighten the level gauge bolt.
Level gauge bolt:
: 5.1 N·m (0.52 kg-m, 45 in-lb)

 

If you simply wanted to flush the system there is a procedure for that, but since you will be removing the valve body, you will be draining a good chunk of the fluid out with the removal. Basically you need to remove the valve body and if possible try to capture all of the fluid that you drain and replace the same volume with fresh fluid. The fluid is expensive at around $10/quart. If the fluid you drain looks good, still red and not burnt or dark looking, then you do not really need to flush the entire system. If you need to flush the entire system, then there is a more detailed procedure to follow.

Once refilled, to check the level to make sure it is spot on is a lot more challenging since you technically need to know the temperature of the fluid to know where the level should be on the dipstick, but you can follow the service manual and just drive around town a little bit to warm it up and check it using the best guess method. Having a Nissan service tech check the fluid level is not a bad idea since they can actually tell the fluid temp using the Consult device.

 

Thanks all. Very useful.

I'm thinking that I'll give Nissan a call and see if I can get permission to put a copy of the service manual on this site for members.

 

It is much easier said than done. One of the most nightmarish experiences that I had with my car...
Draining, refill and even measuring ATF level is pain, to say the least. If you will be doing it yourself, be sure to have some oil pumping equipment and a lot of absorbent stuff around.
The problem is that on 5AT both draining and ATF cooler holes are much higher than AT pan level, thus there is a ton of ATF remaining in the pan. All this ATF is literally gushing out when you are removing AT pan. And it is a lot of ATF - a gallon or so!
Also, the ATF is as slippery as hell. Be extremely careful when removing the VB. I would even suggest leaving the car overnight with AT pan removed, for all the ATF to dip out.
In respect of the measuring, I must say that after maybe 30 attempts, which gave me no usefull measure I just gave up (and I fully followed the service manual procedure). Everytime the dipstick was sprayed in ATF all over.
Finally, drove to the dealer and asked them to check it. They just plugged the Consult, drove around, while checking ATF temp and said it is fine.
I don't want to scare you or smth, just my experience.

 

The cleanest way is to use the BG AT flush machine letting the AT pump out the ATF via the heat exchanger hose and the machine returns the exact amount via the other [return line].

The color of the ATF is critical use adrop of old and new side by side on white paper towel..............the red dye is temp sensitive and fades [desaturates] on overheats above 176F.............long before it darkens from brown clutch material or oxidation.

 

I suspected something like that. Thanks

 

I've seen that BG flush thing mentioned here before. Do you have any info on that? WDBGSF? (What Does BG Stand For?)

Ken