First time Engine Startup
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I will be firing my motor for the first time very soon after its been rebuilt. is there a certain procedure that I need to follow. All I have heard so far is to unplug my ignition coils and crank it with the starter for 40 seconds or so, let the starter cool off and then do it again. Then plug the coils back in and fire her up. Any tips or ideas ?
#2
Damn Noobs
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by JonathanAboona
I will be firing my motor for the first time very soon after its been rebuilt. is there a certain procedure that I need to follow. All I have heard so far is to unplug my ignition coils and crank it with the starter for 40 seconds or so, let the starter cool off and then do it again. Then plug the coils back in and fire her up. Any tips or ideas ?
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Reason for that is to curculate the oil---Good idea but with all the assy Lube thats in there ---No huge deal---Main thing is, if u got new Cams, Start it, CHK UR OIL PRESSURE then keep it at 12-1500 or so RPMS for a few minutes to break in the cams---and other things --Mainly Cams ---Let it get to temp to make sure ur themostat is doing its job---Shut it down --Let it cool down a little and do it again----Then, Off u go
---Dont Baby it ---Other wise it will grow up a baby ---Just be cool for awhile
![driving](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/driving.gif)
#4
Sponsor
Forged Performance
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Unplug your fuel pump connector, or pull the fuse. I presume at this point, that shop will have already checked for fuel leaks prior to starting up the engine.
Crank the engine 3 times for 5 second each time...no need to crank it excessively, as there will be little lubrication in the engine. You just want to start the circulation of oil through the system.
Then fire it up. Watch the oil pressure level closely, and within 3-4 seconds, it should immediately built oil pressure and you are good to go.
At that point, you'll probably spend the next 30 mins checking for more leaks, and purging the cooling system. Best of luck.
Crank the engine 3 times for 5 second each time...no need to crank it excessively, as there will be little lubrication in the engine. You just want to start the circulation of oil through the system.
Then fire it up. Watch the oil pressure level closely, and within 3-4 seconds, it should immediately built oil pressure and you are good to go.
At that point, you'll probably spend the next 30 mins checking for more leaks, and purging the cooling system. Best of luck.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Man in the Sun
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Unplug your fuel pump connector, or pull the fuse. I presume at this point, that shop will have already checked for fuel leaks prior to starting up the engine.
Crank the engine 3 times for 5 second each time...no need to crank it excessively, as there will be little lubrication in the engine. You just want to start the circulation of oil through the system.
Then fire it up. Watch the oil pressure level closely, and within 3-4 seconds, it should immediately built oil pressure and you are good to go.
At that point, you'll probably spend the next 30 mins checking for more leaks, and purging the cooling system. Best of luck.
Crank the engine 3 times for 5 second each time...no need to crank it excessively, as there will be little lubrication in the engine. You just want to start the circulation of oil through the system.
Then fire it up. Watch the oil pressure level closely, and within 3-4 seconds, it should immediately built oil pressure and you are good to go.
At that point, you'll probably spend the next 30 mins checking for more leaks, and purging the cooling system. Best of luck.
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (27)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Unplug your fuel pump connector, or pull the fuse. I presume at this point, that shop will have already checked for fuel leaks prior to starting up the engine.
Crank the engine 3 times for 5 second each time...no need to crank it excessively, as there will be little lubrication in the engine. You just want to start the circulation of oil through the system.
Then fire it up. Watch the oil pressure level closely, and within 3-4 seconds, it should immediately built oil pressure and you are good to go.
At that point, you'll probably spend the next 30 mins checking for more leaks, and purging the cooling system. Best of luck.
Crank the engine 3 times for 5 second each time...no need to crank it excessively, as there will be little lubrication in the engine. You just want to start the circulation of oil through the system.
Then fire it up. Watch the oil pressure level closely, and within 3-4 seconds, it should immediately built oil pressure and you are good to go.
At that point, you'll probably spend the next 30 mins checking for more leaks, and purging the cooling system. Best of luck.
the oil you put into it first should be a regular organic 10/40. you will get better friction to help seat everything, if you use synthetic first, you will lessen your chances of the rings seating properly or completely. hit the synthetic on your first oil change.
under a microscope, the machining processes will look like ridges and valleys, a light break in will only knock off the ridges, and leave the valleys. making complete break in alot longer, or not possible at all.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for all the info so far guys.
I am not doing this at a shop, its actually at my house in the garage. I have a few other questions regarding fuel and oil guys.
1. My car has been sitting for over a year, i'm sure all the lines are dry so how do I get the fuel up to the rails again. I know older cars have issues with vaccum. Will I need to do something to get the fuel back up to the engine bay
2. The fuel has sat for a year like I said. Should I drain it out or do anything else special?
3. Are you saying change the oil after 100 miles
4. Is there a way to prime the oil pump ? Everyone tells me to primie it but I think that is a "old car" kind of thing
5. I am going from 10.3 CR to 8.8 and there will be no boost (no F/I yet). I will be running 87 octane to compensate but am still worried. Any thoughts?
6. I hear its going to sound kind of rough at first, how long do I wait before I shut the motor down because something is wrong?
Thanks again guys. I've never been so scared in my life about something. I've put too much $ in this car so far to have something go wrong
I am not doing this at a shop, its actually at my house in the garage. I have a few other questions regarding fuel and oil guys.
1. My car has been sitting for over a year, i'm sure all the lines are dry so how do I get the fuel up to the rails again. I know older cars have issues with vaccum. Will I need to do something to get the fuel back up to the engine bay
2. The fuel has sat for a year like I said. Should I drain it out or do anything else special?
3. Are you saying change the oil after 100 miles
4. Is there a way to prime the oil pump ? Everyone tells me to primie it but I think that is a "old car" kind of thing
5. I am going from 10.3 CR to 8.8 and there will be no boost (no F/I yet). I will be running 87 octane to compensate but am still worried. Any thoughts?
6. I hear its going to sound kind of rough at first, how long do I wait before I shut the motor down because something is wrong?
Thanks again guys. I've never been so scared in my life about something. I've put too much $ in this car so far to have something go wrong
Trending Topics
#8
Sponsor
Forged Performance
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The old fuel should make no difference...there is zero load on the engine at startup, so you'll be fine.
Before disabling your fuel pump, turn the key to the on position, and listen for the pump. once it shuts off, key-off for about 10 seconds, and key-on again. You need to cycle the pump a few times in order to get fuel to the rails. Have someone check for leaks while doing this. Once you are certain you have fuel pressure at the rails, and there are no leaks, you can disable the pump, and crank it over as I described above.
Just keep your eye on your oil pressure and dashboard. It's very common to get a CEL on startup, so dont be worried.
At this point, if you messed something up...it will be too late anyways...so relax!
Before disabling your fuel pump, turn the key to the on position, and listen for the pump. once it shuts off, key-off for about 10 seconds, and key-on again. You need to cycle the pump a few times in order to get fuel to the rails. Have someone check for leaks while doing this. Once you are certain you have fuel pressure at the rails, and there are no leaks, you can disable the pump, and crank it over as I described above.
Just keep your eye on your oil pressure and dashboard. It's very common to get a CEL on startup, so dont be worried.
At this point, if you messed something up...it will be too late anyways...so relax!
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1. There is no test port on the Z so I believe that just cycling the ign. sw a couple of times should prime.
2. How much is in it ? --If ur at 1/2 or so ---just top it of with some 89+----Fact ur down to 8.8:1 helps here
3.Personally I change it after an hour or two of driving---But a 100 is fine.
4. As Sharif said as far as pulling the Pump Fuse---Thats it ---No fuel,No Start---But Lubrication of the system
5. 87 will be fine @ 8.8:1 IMO----But a higher octane initially to compensate for older fuel thats in the tank.
6. I dont know why it should be to rough too long--ur Comp will be busy logging info and giving instructions. Maybe 30 secs til the fuel lines purge and everything is finding its way home, Important thing is Oil Pressure, and making sure ur quick connects on ur fuel lines are snapped tite. If thats cool, take it around the blk, purge ur coolent again when u get back, and chk again for leaks.
2. How much is in it ? --If ur at 1/2 or so ---just top it of with some 89+----Fact ur down to 8.8:1 helps here
3.Personally I change it after an hour or two of driving---But a 100 is fine.
4. As Sharif said as far as pulling the Pump Fuse---Thats it ---No fuel,No Start---But Lubrication of the system
5. 87 will be fine @ 8.8:1 IMO----But a higher octane initially to compensate for older fuel thats in the tank.
6. I dont know why it should be to rough too long--ur Comp will be busy logging info and giving instructions. Maybe 30 secs til the fuel lines purge and everything is finding its way home, Important thing is Oil Pressure, and making sure ur quick connects on ur fuel lines are snapped tite. If thats cool, take it around the blk, purge ur coolent again when u get back, and chk again for leaks.
#10
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Just keep your eye on your oil pressure and dashboard.
![plus one](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/plus1.gif)
![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon22.gif)
![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon22.gif)
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok here is the latest update.... Motor wont start
I turned it over for 2 20 second durations. No abnormal sounds. Put the spark back on and tried to start her up. No luck. Not even a sputter. I am going to check to make sure I have fuel and spark but after that...... I have no idea how to troubleshoot. Another thing is when i put the car in the "on" mode, all the stuff lights up in the car but for some reason my radiator fan turns on. Why the heck is it doing that. Another thing to mention is that I stored the car last September with a FULL tank of gas, I'm talking FULL. Put the car in accessory mode and the tank reads less than 3/4.
Any thoughts. What a disappointing night. Worked till 3:30 am to get everything on and she didn’t fire
I turned it over for 2 20 second durations. No abnormal sounds. Put the spark back on and tried to start her up. No luck. Not even a sputter. I am going to check to make sure I have fuel and spark but after that...... I have no idea how to troubleshoot. Another thing is when i put the car in the "on" mode, all the stuff lights up in the car but for some reason my radiator fan turns on. Why the heck is it doing that. Another thing to mention is that I stored the car last September with a FULL tank of gas, I'm talking FULL. Put the car in accessory mode and the tank reads less than 3/4.
Any thoughts. What a disappointing night. Worked till 3:30 am to get everything on and she didn’t fire
![Frown](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#12
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wonder if it could have anything to do with the vehicle immobilizer. (more likely it's a fuel or spark problem though?)
Are the fuel pumps getting pressure? Maybe they need to be primed...
What have you done in terms of ECU mods? Is the stock ECU still present?
As for the radiator fans, if the coolant temp sensor is reading zero voltage, it will assume the coolant is overheating.
Check the voltage signal from the coolant temp sensor.
Are the fuel pumps getting pressure? Maybe they need to be primed...
What have you done in terms of ECU mods? Is the stock ECU still present?
As for the radiator fans, if the coolant temp sensor is reading zero voltage, it will assume the coolant is overheating.
Check the voltage signal from the coolant temp sensor.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 10-12-2006 at 12:40 PM.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
maybe because there isnt any coolant touching the sensor at the moment since the car hasn't started yet ?
I am going to check spark and fuel tonight if I can. Its snowing in MI already, guess I have to turn on the heater tonight.
I am going to check spark and fuel tonight if I can. Its snowing in MI already, guess I have to turn on the heater tonight.
#14
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by JonathanAboona
I will be firing my motor for the first time very soon after its been rebuilt. is there a certain procedure that I need to follow. All I have heard so far is to unplug my ignition coils and crank it with the starter for 40 seconds or so, let the starter cool off and then do it again. Then plug the coils back in and fire her up. Any tips or ideas ?
#15
Sponsor
Forged Performance
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by JonathanAboona
Ok here is the latest update.... Motor wont start
Another thing is when i put the car in the "on" mode, all the stuff lights up in the car but for some reason my radiator fan turns on. Why the heck is it doing that. .
Any thoughts. What a disappointing night. Worked till 3:30 am to get everything on and she didn’t fire![Frown](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Another thing is when i put the car in the "on" mode, all the stuff lights up in the car but for some reason my radiator fan turns on. Why the heck is it doing that. .
Any thoughts. What a disappointing night. Worked till 3:30 am to get everything on and she didn’t fire
![Frown](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Check your CEL...I bet it is not on with the key on.
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
it was the ecu connector. the grey latch wasnt on all the way. I am getting fuel pressure now
but now i got a small leak on my nitrous line connector. I need someone to hold the fitting while I tighten it but nobody is around
Guess I have to wait. Thanks for the help guys I will keep you all updated.
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Frown](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ok everyone the car has started. at first it was clanking around quite a bit but shes all quiet now. A problem i am running into is that when i am driving and then pop the clutch in and coast to a stop, the car dies. any thoughts?