View Poll Results: Best bang for the buck???
JWT clutch/flywheel combo



66
51.16%
3.9 gears



43
33.33%
niether/other: post up suggestions (no FI)



20
15.50%
Voters: 129. You may not vote on this poll
JWT clutch/flywheel or 3.9 gears: best bang for the buck?
Originally Posted by sakred
not true. a clutch and flywheel will not increase your trap. i have tested this scientifically. if you are buying a light weight clutch and flywheel for gains in the ET your doing it for the wrong reason. i went from a slipping stock clutch to the tilton with similar 60 ft times on similar nights within the same week at the same track and gained 0 in my trap speed. yes 0 mph gain. if you buy a clutch you buy it for its tq holding capabilities and longevity under stress, rev charectaristics (without load), engagement and weight reduction. do not expect to gain anything in the trap or lower your ET. if the most extreme setup out there for the Z gained me 0 the less extreme ones will do the same.
Hammad
Hammad
Hmm, interesting. Asside from the quicker rev characteristics, shouldn't a lightened flywheel free up additional power/TQ by reducing rotational mass, similar to what a lightweight pulley does? One would think this would net you gains in acceleration and overall trap times, right?
Originally Posted by MI 35th
never had it affect VDC, never had a problem since the labor was free... never had any conflict with my 3.9FD
Originally Posted by MustGoFastR
Hmm, interesting. Asside from the quicker rev characteristics, shouldn't a lightened flywheel free up additional power/TQ by reducing rotational mass, similar to what a lightweight pulley does? One would think this would net you gains in acceleration and overall trap times, right?
Hammad
Hmm, that does make sense. Well, given that, maybe the 3.9 gears are more for me, then. I don't really abuse my stock clutch and am not putting down enough power to require higher holding capacity and though I'd like the revs to drop a bit quicker between shifts, I can live with it. I'd really just like quicker acceleration and given what I've already done, this is about it this side of going FI.
So who sells Central20 3.9 gears?
So who sells Central20 3.9 gears?
central 20 and 350evo
I bought mine from BJ from 350evo! the are the originators, central 20 are copies of it but Ive heard are good quality! I cant vouche for those but 350evo's have been running since 05 feb and no problems.
I bought mine from BJ from 350evo! the are the originators, central 20 are copies of it but Ive heard are good quality! I cant vouche for those but 350evo's have been running since 05 feb and no problems.
Originally Posted by MI 35th
central 20 and 350evo
I bought mine from BJ from 350evo! the are the originators, central 20 are copies of it but Ive heard are good quality! I cant vouche for those but 350evo's have been running since 05 feb and no problems.
I bought mine from BJ from 350evo! the are the originators, central 20 are copies of it but Ive heard are good quality! I cant vouche for those but 350evo's have been running since 05 feb and no problems.
To the OP, you'll eventually want both, particularly if you stay NA. Hold off on doing the gearing up front because you might find you want an aftermarket LSD later. Easiest to do the LSD and ring gear at the same time.
i think 350EVO possibly supplies nismo and then nismo brands it under their name - same thing like their GT pro or whatever they're called (http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=2793&rsku=13847) sway bars with heim joints (not the normal S-tune silver nismo bars), but either way, 350EVO came out with the part way before anyone else
Last edited by sentry65; Nov 10, 2006 at 04:45 PM.
Originally Posted by helldorado
To the OP, you'll eventually want both, particularly if you stay NA. Hold off on doing the gearing up front because you might find you want an aftermarket LSD later. Easiest to do the LSD and ring gear at the same time.
True, I thought about that last night... ugh... need to start researching LSDs now... What's a decent, streetable, non-hardcore one that is a nice upgrade from the VLSD without being over the top?
Originally Posted by MI 35th
central 20 and 350evo
I bought mine from BJ from 350evo! the are the originators, central 20 are copies of it but Ive heard are good quality! I cant vouche for those but 350evo's have been running since 05 feb and no problems.
I bought mine from BJ from 350evo! the are the originators, central 20 are copies of it but Ive heard are good quality! I cant vouche for those but 350evo's have been running since 05 feb and no problems.
Question remains: where to get it?
Originally Posted by MustGoFastR
Central 20 is cheapest, so that's the one I want. Heard just fine things about it, so no reason to pay more for 350EVO or Nismo...
Question remains: where to get it?
Question remains: where to get it?
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...ducts_id/20063
I have no idea if that's the best price or not. I just googled for them after reading this thread and that's who came up.
Originally Posted by MustGoFastR
True, I thought about that last night... ugh... need to start researching LSDs now... What's a decent, streetable, non-hardcore one that is a nice upgrade from the VLSD without being over the top?
Nismo brand is a re-branded version of the 350EVO. Yes they are the originators, I have seen the original prototype 1st hand... the Nismo was a known re-brand. Central 20 decided to replicate using out of country parts and since no R&D was incorped into the process the products may be sold significantly cheaper. They should be just fine as for quality, However, I live down the street from 350evo and am by there at least twice a week to shoot the proverbial ****. So my choice was clear... support local group of guys who are awesome when it comes to Zs or some japanese company.
Originally Posted by sakred
whatever it free's is negligable. think of it this way the major source of loss is through friction of the gears oil in the tranny and the diff when comparing BHP to WHP. once the clutch is disengaged the whole assembly is moving as one through the drive gear. the clutch and flywheel have no real friction lower or higher then before once they are all moving togather. you are still losing the same amount of power. now if you look at it as weight reduction then yeah you loss weight off of the center of the car which is always good. my tilton revs faster then bikes in neutral and when the clutch pedal is down but once the car is in gear its all the same.
Hammad
Hammad
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/ro...cc_nismo_350z/
I myself did a few of the N/A (+HP) mods out of fun, for a different sound, a learning experience installing them myself and out of longevity (stainless steel).
Zquicksilver
Last edited by Zquicksilver; Nov 30, 2006 at 07:15 PM.
Originally Posted by Zquicksilver
You made a point that I've wondered about for a long time and why I never saw the need to upgrade to a better clutch and flywheel being n/a. I've also wondered if a lightened flywheel would reduce my torque in certain areas of the powerband? Like you said, a lightened flywheel revs great, but once engaged it's almost all the same. I'm wondering if the only purpose of a lightened flywheel is to get the engine into a sweet spot faster in the powerband, specifically for track guys and really track guys only? I came across this comparison a long time ago and it makes doing all the N/A mods seem a little silly, when you really get down to it. Scroll to the bottom and take a look at different 1/4 mile times. Then look at all the stuff that's been done to the different Zs.
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/ro...cc_nismo_350z/
I myself did a few of the N/A (+HP) mods out of fun, for a different sound, a learning experience installing them myself and out of longevity (stainless steel).
Zquicksilver
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/ro...cc_nismo_350z/
I myself did a few of the N/A (+HP) mods out of fun, for a different sound, a learning experience installing them myself and out of longevity (stainless steel).
Zquicksilver
bear in mind that for that article, turning a 12.8 and 12.7 inch brake rotor takes more work than a smaller, thinner, and lighter 11.7 and 10.5 inch rotors and all it otherwise had over the S-tune as far as power adders was an intake and mild headers for a 6hp and 4tq increase
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