RevUp Oil Consumption TSB and discussion
11-15-2008, 04:58 PM
#3641
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I just got my 05' 35th Anniversary back from the dealer (Nissan of the Eastside in Bellevue WA). This is my first engine swap…
The strange thing is, the tech told me that the engine came pre-filled with oil from the factory, so he didn't have to add any. I thought that the new engines were all coming from the factory dry? I checked the invoice, and its the latest engine code, so I wonder why mine allready had oil? Hmm...
The strange thing is, the tech told me that the engine came pre-filled with oil from the factory, so he didn't have to add any. I thought that the new engines were all coming from the factory dry? I checked the invoice, and its the latest engine code, so I wonder why mine allready had oil? Hmm...
Problem is…that on a FRESH engine, it requires 5.5 qrts.
Check your oil level.
Congrats and enjoy, read some of the previous posts on tips for break-in.
11-15-2008, 06:22 PM
#3642
I just got my 05' 35th Anniversary back from the dealer (Nissan of the Eastside in Bellevue WA). This is my first engine swap, and hopefully the oil consumption will be less. I had a long conversation with the tech who did my swap, and he seemed to be pretty up-and-up with his install knowledge. This is his 9th Z motor swap.
So far everything seems to be good. And I swear, the engine seems to be a bit smoother at idle and low revs. I cant take it past 4k yet, but so far it just seems to be smoother. Placebo maybe?
And thankfully they didn't mangle anything in the engine bay. Nothing seems to be scratched or missing. They spilled a little bit of antifreeze, but that's it. The AC seems to be working fine too. No scratches on the body or wheels either.
The strange thing is, the tech told me that the engine came pre-filled with oil from the factory, so he didn't have to add any. I thought that the new engines were all coming from the factory dry? I checked the invoice, and its the latest engine code, so I wonder why mine allready had oil? Hmm...
And the break-in procedure begins! Ill post with my consumption results with the new motor.
So far everything seems to be good. And I swear, the engine seems to be a bit smoother at idle and low revs. I cant take it past 4k yet, but so far it just seems to be smoother. Placebo maybe?
And thankfully they didn't mangle anything in the engine bay. Nothing seems to be scratched or missing. They spilled a little bit of antifreeze, but that's it. The AC seems to be working fine too. No scratches on the body or wheels either.
The strange thing is, the tech told me that the engine came pre-filled with oil from the factory, so he didn't have to add any. I thought that the new engines were all coming from the factory dry? I checked the invoice, and its the latest engine code, so I wonder why mine allready had oil? Hmm...
And the break-in procedure begins! Ill post with my consumption results with the new motor.
The engines come from the factory already filled with 5 1/2 quarts of "break-in oil" Mine did too.
11-15-2008, 06:28 PM
#3643
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I would still check the oil level ASAP. There have been previous reports of the engine only having 5.0 qrts. Instead of the 5.5 qrts it takes INITIALLY to fill up the engine. 
btw: Some of the better dealers know this, and top off the 5.0 qrts with an additional 0.5 qrt. Some dealers have not, hence the reason for checking it. To be honest, I have always recommended checking it before it leaves the dealer. But I know how that excitement factor kicks in and the tendancy to forget. Any-who, I would dump the oil the moment I got home or within the first 12 miles.
btw: Some of the better dealers know this, and top off the 5.0 qrts with an additional 0.5 qrt. Some dealers have not, hence the reason for checking it. To be honest, I have always recommended checking it before it leaves the dealer. But I know how that excitement factor kicks in and the tendancy to forget. Any-who, I would dump the oil the moment I got home or within the first 12 miles.
Last edited by ZeeForce; 11-15-2008 at 06:34 PM. Reason: added last paragraph
11-15-2008, 08:52 PM
#3644
Thanx for that tip. I was always under the impression they came dry too. My stupid dealer said they will be filling my fresh V2 with what they use (Castrol 5w-30 GTX). I need to go check my invoice now to see if they listed any oil used during swap... Off memory, don't remember seeing any oil listed on invoice. No matter really as I dumped mine as soon I got home anyway lol...
Last edited by 06CPV35; 11-15-2008 at 08:54 PM.
11-15-2008, 09:06 PM
#3645
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Pulstar Spark Plugs
np..
OT but not really...the Pulstar Spark Plugs I just had installed really made a difference. The ping at low loads has practically disappeared. I still get it occasionaly, but no where near as before. Idle is smoother and the throttle response is quicker. I'm feeling some butt dyno too.
Note: I am running Shell V-Power 91 octane along with something else that Terry Dyson has me doing on the tune.
btw: I should be getting back very soon, from Terry Dyson my used oil analysis (UOA). This will be with 15k mi on the fresh engine.
OT but not really...the Pulstar Spark Plugs I just had installed really made a difference. The ping at low loads has practically disappeared. I still get it occasionaly, but no where near as before. Idle is smoother and the throttle response is quicker. I'm feeling some butt dyno too.
Note: I am running Shell V-Power 91 octane along with something else that Terry Dyson has me doing on the tune.
btw: I should be getting back very soon, from Terry Dyson my used oil analysis (UOA). This will be with 15k mi on the fresh engine.
11-15-2008, 10:56 PM
#3646
np..
OT but not really...the Pulstar Spark Plugs I just had installed really made a difference. The ping at low loads has practically disappeared. I still get it occasionaly, but no where near as before. Idle is smoother and the throttle response is quicker. I'm feeling some butt dyno too.
Note: I am running Shell V-Power 91 octane along with something else that Terry Dyson has me doing on the tune.
btw: I should be getting back very soon, from Terry Dyson my used oil analysis (UOA). This will be with 15k mi on the fresh engine.
OT but not really...the Pulstar Spark Plugs I just had installed really made a difference. The ping at low loads has practically disappeared. I still get it occasionaly, but no where near as before. Idle is smoother and the throttle response is quicker. I'm feeling some butt dyno too.
Note: I am running Shell V-Power 91 octane along with something else that Terry Dyson has me doing on the tune.
btw: I should be getting back very soon, from Terry Dyson my used oil analysis (UOA). This will be with 15k mi on the fresh engine.
11-16-2008, 07:46 AM
#3647
np..
OT but not really...the Pulstar Spark Plugs I just had installed really made a difference. The ping at low loads has practically disappeared. I still get it occasionaly, but no where near as before. Idle is smoother and the throttle response is quicker. I'm feeling some butt dyno too.
Note: I am running Shell V-Power 91 octane along with something else that Terry Dyson has me doing on the tune.
btw: I should be getting back very soon, from Terry Dyson my used oil analysis (UOA). This will be with 15k mi on the fresh engine.
OT but not really...the Pulstar Spark Plugs I just had installed really made a difference. The ping at low loads has practically disappeared. I still get it occasionaly, but no where near as before. Idle is smoother and the throttle response is quicker. I'm feeling some butt dyno too.
Note: I am running Shell V-Power 91 octane along with something else that Terry Dyson has me doing on the tune.
btw: I should be getting back very soon, from Terry Dyson my used oil analysis (UOA). This will be with 15k mi on the fresh engine.
Heard/read mixed reviews on those Pulsars. G/L with those...
I'm getting close to another oil service interval, then UOA to follow as well with 7500 on mine. Going 100% Synth on my next service.
Playing with Cipher today to see if I can get to the bottom of my V2 detonation issue...
11-16-2008, 08:30 AM
#3648
np..
OT but not really...the Pulstar Spark Plugs I just had installed really made a difference. The ping at low loads has practically disappeared. I still get it occasionaly, but no where near as before. Idle is smoother and the throttle response is quicker. I'm feeling some butt dyno too.
Note: I am running Shell V-Power 91 octane along with something else that Terry Dyson has me doing on the tune.
btw: I should be getting back very soon, from Terry Dyson my used oil analysis (UOA). This will be with 15k mi on the fresh engine.
OT but not really...the Pulstar Spark Plugs I just had installed really made a difference. The ping at low loads has practically disappeared. I still get it occasionaly, but no where near as before. Idle is smoother and the throttle response is quicker. I'm feeling some butt dyno too.
Note: I am running Shell V-Power 91 octane along with something else that Terry Dyson has me doing on the tune.
btw: I should be getting back very soon, from Terry Dyson my used oil analysis (UOA). This will be with 15k mi on the fresh engine.
Is there a reason why you are using 91 Octane instead of 93? I find that the car runs better on the higher Octane fuel. Perhaps this may take care of the pigning.
p.s. In other news, I was thinking of getting a Fujita SRI because it does not require oiling bbase on the fact that the cone is made of silicone. What ae your thoughts on this sir?
11-16-2008, 09:57 AM
#3649
ZeeForce,
Is there a reason why you are using 91 Octane instead of 93? I find that the car runs better on the higher Octane fuel. Perhaps this may take care of the pigning.
p.s. In other news, I was thinking of getting a Fujita SRI because it does not require oiling bbase on the fact that the cone is made of silicone. What ae your thoughts on this sir?
Is there a reason why you are using 91 Octane instead of 93? I find that the car runs better on the higher Octane fuel. Perhaps this may take care of the pigning.
p.s. In other news, I was thinking of getting a Fujita SRI because it does not require oiling bbase on the fact that the cone is made of silicone. What ae your thoughts on this sir?
Please PM me shipping costs for a tanker full of your 93 to my house
11-16-2008, 10:06 AM
#3650
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I would still check the oil level ASAP. There have been previous reports of the engine only having 5.0 qrts. Instead of the 5.5 qrts it takes INITIALLY to fill up the engine.
btw: Some of the better dealers know this, and top off the 5.0 qrts with an additional 0.5 qrt. Some dealers have not, hence the reason for checking it. To be honest, I have always recommended checking it before it leaves the dealer. But I know how that excitement factor kicks in and the tendancy to forget. Any-who, I would dump the oil the moment I got home or within the first 12 miles.
btw: Some of the better dealers know this, and top off the 5.0 qrts with an additional 0.5 qrt. Some dealers have not, hence the reason for checking it. To be honest, I have always recommended checking it before it leaves the dealer. But I know how that excitement factor kicks in and the tendancy to forget. Any-who, I would dump the oil the moment I got home or within the first 12 miles.
I mentioned this to the tech that did the engine swap, and he said that its nothing to be worried about, and that he didn't want to add any additional oil to try and "top it off". He said that it will be just fine as long as the oil stays above the L mark.
So, I have put about 30 miles on the car since the install. How many miles should I go before I do an oil change? The tech said to wait until the break-in period is over, but I was planning on doing it around 300 miles or so. Is there any reason I should do it sooner or later? I understand that there might be some metal contamination in the motor, but is it so severe that I would need to change the oil as soon as 50 miles or so?
Heck, I could even get racing fuel at my Local Sonoco station. 
11-16-2008, 11:42 AM
#3652
Congrats, it’s about time….what has it been over a year since you have been monitoring the OC? In all its all good, you finally got one. I have not been keeping track of the stats for some time, seems like it lost interest and it was a lot to keep up. I would suggest taking the template at the bottom of page 1 and use it to post up your stats. To be honest it’s not how much your fresh engine is consuming, its all about “what the condition your engine is in during break-in”. 06CPV35 learned from my experiences and UOA’, with better results than me and from the recommendation of Terry Dyson of www.dysonanalysis.com and Will (Resolute) and his VQ Oil Analysis thread.
Proven tips:
1. Drain the oil within five minutes after you receive the car back from dealer.
2. Drain the oil again after 200-500 miles
3. Drain the oil again after 1500 miles
4. Go an entire oil change interval with 3750 miles on this oil change.
5. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 or Valvoline Durablend 10w-30
6. Use an Amsoil oil filter.
7. Keep your air filter very clean, I cannot stress enough about this, and if you are using cotton oil based filter, seriously consider going to paper.
8. Have the used oil analyzed by Terry Dyson after 3750 mi ($60.00)
9. As soon as you get it, but it really does not matter when, is to put a load on it. Uphill WOT, never over revving past 4k rpm and when you reach 65mph, then back off. Do this 5 times. It will help with seating the pistons and rings.
10. Then drive the car within the mfg guidelines within the recommended miles, never exceeding 4k rpm.
11. Do not take for granted that once you hit the mfg break in miles of 2k (or is it 4k, I do not remember) that the engine is broke in. Have it analyzed by Terry Dyson. It’s not how we break-in the engines, it’s the condition of the engine after every oil drain during this break-in period. With that said the way we (06CPV35 and myself) have worked with Terry, appear to be having the best results on these freshly built engines.
06CPV35 chime in, if you are nearby. btw: Can you confirm from his pics if they replaced with new the PCV valve? It looks like they did, I see it on the rhs of the engine.
Hope this Helps
Cheers
Curtis
Proven tips:
1. Drain the oil within five minutes after you receive the car back from dealer.
2. Drain the oil again after 200-500 miles
3. Drain the oil again after 1500 miles
4. Go an entire oil change interval with 3750 miles on this oil change.
5. Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 or Valvoline Durablend 10w-30
6. Use an Amsoil oil filter.
7. Keep your air filter very clean, I cannot stress enough about this, and if you are using cotton oil based filter, seriously consider going to paper.
8. Have the used oil analyzed by Terry Dyson after 3750 mi ($60.00)
9. As soon as you get it, but it really does not matter when, is to put a load on it. Uphill WOT, never over revving past 4k rpm and when you reach 65mph, then back off. Do this 5 times. It will help with seating the pistons and rings.
10. Then drive the car within the mfg guidelines within the recommended miles, never exceeding 4k rpm.
11. Do not take for granted that once you hit the mfg break in miles of 2k (or is it 4k, I do not remember) that the engine is broke in. Have it analyzed by Terry Dyson. It’s not how we break-in the engines, it’s the condition of the engine after every oil drain during this break-in period. With that said the way we (06CPV35 and myself) have worked with Terry, appear to be having the best results on these freshly built engines.
06CPV35 chime in, if you are nearby. btw: Can you confirm from his pics if they replaced with new the PCV valve? It looks like they did, I see it on the rhs of the engine.
Hope this Helps
Cheers
Curtis
I checked the oil level on the new engine, and it's about 1/2 way between the L and H on the dipstick. I guess this means that the engine only came with 5 quarts instead of 5 1/2.
I mentioned this to the tech that did the engine swap, and he said that its nothing to be worried about, and that he didn't want to add any additional oil to try and "top it off". He said that it will be just fine as long as the oil stays above the L mark.
So, I have put about 30 miles on the car since the install. How many miles should I go before I do an oil change? The tech said to wait until the break-in period is over, but I was planning on doing it around 300 miles or so. Is there any reason I should do it sooner or later? I understand that there might be some metal contamination in the motor, but is it so severe that I would need to change the oil as soon as 50 miles or so?
I mentioned this to the tech that did the engine swap, and he said that its nothing to be worried about, and that he didn't want to add any additional oil to try and "top it off". He said that it will be just fine as long as the oil stays above the L mark.
So, I have put about 30 miles on the car since the install. How many miles should I go before I do an oil change? The tech said to wait until the break-in period is over, but I was planning on doing it around 300 miles or so. Is there any reason I should do it sooner or later? I understand that there might be some metal contamination in the motor, but is it so severe that I would need to change the oil as soon as 50 miles or so?
11-18-2008, 07:01 PM
#3653
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Currently own a 06.5 GT 6-spd
Brought the car to the dealer 12 July 08 with 9900miles on the odometer claiming high oil consumption and spark-knock. Dealer changed oil/filter, checked codes and had me come back at 3,500miles.
13 November, brought the car back to dealer with 2,400miles on odometer after oil change. Was 23mm down. They contacted Techline and got authorization to order long block.
18 November, called by dealer to bring in for heart transplant. Asked about rental car...no problem, Nissan providing.
I know that this has been an on going issue, but Nissan was real quick to replace the engine and give me a rental car with no hassle.
Without reading through this Guiness Book of World Records thread, what is the average time to swap? Anyone having issues with the swap other than oil? Squeeks, loose parts..missing parts?
Brought the car to the dealer 12 July 08 with 9900miles on the odometer claiming high oil consumption and spark-knock. Dealer changed oil/filter, checked codes and had me come back at 3,500miles.
13 November, brought the car back to dealer with 2,400miles on odometer after oil change. Was 23mm down. They contacted Techline and got authorization to order long block.
18 November, called by dealer to bring in for heart transplant. Asked about rental car...no problem, Nissan providing.
I know that this has been an on going issue, but Nissan was real quick to replace the engine and give me a rental car with no hassle.
Without reading through this Guiness Book of World Records thread, what is the average time to swap? Anyone having issues with the swap other than oil? Squeeks, loose parts..missing parts?
11-18-2008, 08:03 PM
#3654
Currently own a 06.5 GT 6-spd
Brought the car to the dealer 12 July 08 with 9900miles on the odometer claiming high oil consumption and spark-knock. Dealer changed oil/filter, checked codes and had me come back at 3,500miles.
13 November, brought the car back to dealer with 2,400miles on odometer after oil change. Was 23mm down. They contacted Techline and got authorization to order long block.
18 November, called by dealer to bring in for heart transplant. Asked about rental car...no problem, Nissan providing.
I know that this has been an on going issue, but Nissan was real quick to replace the engine and give me a rental car with no hassle.
Without reading through this Guiness Book of World Records thread, what is the average time to swap? Anyone having issues with the swap other than oil? Squeeks, loose parts..missing parts?
Brought the car to the dealer 12 July 08 with 9900miles on the odometer claiming high oil consumption and spark-knock. Dealer changed oil/filter, checked codes and had me come back at 3,500miles.
13 November, brought the car back to dealer with 2,400miles on odometer after oil change. Was 23mm down. They contacted Techline and got authorization to order long block.
18 November, called by dealer to bring in for heart transplant. Asked about rental car...no problem, Nissan providing.
I know that this has been an on going issue, but Nissan was real quick to replace the engine and give me a rental car with no hassle.
Without reading through this Guiness Book of World Records thread, what is the average time to swap? Anyone having issues with the swap other than oil? Squeeks, loose parts..missing parts?
As far as the install goes, my engine is running very smooth. I did had to take the car back a few times to work out some "minor" details such as a water leak from the radiator that was cause because they did not connected the hose properly. Other than that, all is well thus far. I have 600 miles to finish my break in period and I am praying that the OC is gone.
11-20-2008, 04:28 PM
#3655
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Dropped the car off the get V2 installed on 19 November around noon. Got a call at 5pm on 20 November saying that it is ready for pick-up.
That was pretty quick! I am thinking too quick. Granted, it was a long block, but that was fast!
That was pretty quick! I am thinking too quick. Granted, it was a long block, but that was fast!
11-21-2008, 05:03 AM
#3658
After my V2 had arrived to dealer (a few days for that), my swap only took 1.5 days. The extra .5 was for many final QC inspections after swap to make sure all was running good, no leaks, etc.
11-21-2008, 10:59 AM
#3659
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Well... got my OC checked the other day, and it seems like I am riding the fine line for replacement. I have gone 600 miles since my oil change, and have burnt through 3.5 mm of oil. Seems like according to the chart, this is slightly over the curve for an engine replacement. I think the dealer is still a bit naive about the TSB that is currently out. The service advisor told me this is normal burning for an engine... I guess we will see after I hit 1k miles.
Anyone have any quick advise? Should I write down the TSB number and take it in with me next time I go so they can look it up?
Anyone have any quick advise? Should I write down the TSB number and take it in with me next time I go so they can look it up?
11-21-2008, 04:33 PM
#3660
Well... got my OC checked the other day, and it seems like I am riding the fine line for replacement. I have gone 600 miles since my oil change, and have burnt through 3.5 mm of oil. Seems like according to the chart, this is slightly over the curve for an engine replacement. I think the dealer is still a bit naive about the TSB that is currently out. The service advisor told me this is normal burning for an engine... I guess we will see after I hit 1k miles.
Anyone have any quick advise? Should I write down the TSB number and take it in with me next time I go so they can look it up?
Anyone have any quick advise? Should I write down the TSB number and take it in with me next time I go so they can look it up?
Take a copy of the TSB with you when you go and ask to speak to the service manager.