creationv2

iTrader: (5)

Status: So Far So Good – Still Pending
OC: 0
Engine Install Date: 8/13/07
Engine part number: 10102-AC7MZ
Mileage on Engine: 3300
Mileage on current oil change interval of 3750 – 4000: 1700
Oil Type/Brand/Weight: whatever the dealer puts in (dino?)

06CPV35

Yes I know...sad when there's so many on Drivers OC thread as well as here. I've filed and others have after I gave them the 411 there.
Wish more had filed. One even included all the OC thread links to Diver and here too. I noticed more, I believe, if you go to different years and different models separately (05 coupe, 05 sedan, 06 coupe; 06 sedan) etc. and don't use their 'engine' filter. Search for all defects related to yr/model and sort them out that way. Not sure on any reports on sedans. I only looked at 05-06 coupes. Wonder if there's any for 07 coupes, haven't check for awhile. 07 sedans have the VQ35HR, same as 07 Z's, whereas 07 coupes still run the VQ35DE in question. Wonder about 05 6mt Z's, revup VQ's too?

Whether it's still a valid complaint with ppl who presently have sucessful replacements, imo...yes it is. It was an occurrence of a rev-up VQ defect, even though those customers now have V2's or luckily successful V1's. Bottom line...it was a defective occurrence that imo, NHTSA should be aware of and not just a few isolated situations in their database, which they'll probably discount and not start an investigation.

Perhaps I'll start a separate thread on this consumer defect complaint right.
That way it won't fall into the abyss of posts in this OC thread and already has many times in Driver's OC threads.

Great idea on your last post. I'll contribute what I can and knowledge when time allows on my end.
I'm seeing on Drivers OC thread ~ on a weekly basis, additional members joining this dreaded OC plague and asking redundant questions over and over on what they should do and how.

joe_blow_xbox

iTrader: (1)

I was reading over Zeeforce's OC spreadsheet and it said somethign very interesting.

1.5 Quarts between High and Low on dipstick. I always thought it was 1.0 quarts. Can somebody confirm it is 1.5 quarts between H and L on the dipstick. It it is, my latest entry was incorrect (OC wold have been would have been 1.125 quart in 1000 miles, not 0.75 quart. My oil level was 1/4 above L on the dipstick).

9kFever

iTrader: (9)

I know its more than 1.0 qts. I used to go into the dealer during consumption tests with a little above L and the dealer would state it was down 2 qts. This is probably because they drain it right when i bring it in.

ZeeForce

Perfect, thanks I will update the current list, on a few posts back.

ZeeForce

I will file.
Agreed, I am going to file a complaint just the same as you stated.
Thanks for contributing!

Mid117

iTrader: (11)

In my earlier post, I mentioned nissan wanted to give me $2500 to settle the dispute...I got a call back from BBB saying NNA offered me $3000.

I told the BBB the lowest I'll accept is $5000 to settle, or buyback...we'll see how that works out.

ZeeForce

I have two invoices with readings and how much oil was used to top it off.

The first was my initial complaint and the invoice has:
“Performed oil consuming check, no oil leak. Checked oil level on dipstick, was at less than ½ way, about ¼ above the low hash line. Had to add 1 quart of engine oil”

The second invoice states:
“Let vehicle sit for 30 minutes before checking oil level. Found level to be 40mm’s from the bottom of the dipstick, ½ on the hash marks, which needed ½ quart to refill to the top of the hash marks”.

So the first one indicates there is more than 1 quart between the L and H hash marks. The second one looks like there is 1 qrt between the hash marks. IDK.

I have heard from other folk that there is more than 1 qrt, so I went with the 1.5 qt. I guess the only true way would be to drain the oil when it is at the “L” mark and measure what is left in the pan. Although for the in between oil changes, we only have the dipstick readings. My experience has been that the car needs to sit over night to get a true reading on the dipstick. Adding oil from the L to the H hash mark on a stone cold engine could give us a better measurement. Other than draining the oil and measuring the oil left in the pan.

As 9kFever stated, his drained was 2qrt low, others say 1 qrt low, so 1.5 is an average between the two. If folk want to use 1qrt then its their right to do so. I would suggest that when the time comes to drain the oil have it measured from the pan and take a good reading on the dipstick prior to draining it (when it’s stone cold). Then readjust your consumption number for the stats list based on oil drained. Of course if you added oil during the oil change interval it would not be accurate. IMO that is the best determination.

I wish there was something from Nissan, but I have not seen any of their documentation that states how much oil is between the hash marks.

aforst

With my buyback I had complained about oil consumption for well over 1 year NNA finally admitted that their was an oil consumption problem (after I changed dealearships). That dealearship offered a replacement motor. Than I was told that the replacement motor ordered would not fix the problem and that I was on a waiting list for a handbuilt motor from japan (no set timeframe for a replacement.) Sick of the BS and two months latter I pursued the BBB route. NNA at that time said that they would not repurchase the vehicle and all a suden they had a date for the motor. Oh yeah they offered my 800 dollars and a new motor. I decided that I had complained / asked the dealer to repair / had several oil consumption tests etc. In total Nissan had had approx eight attempts to fix/find the problem. So I asked for arbitration. NNA arguement was that the attempts for repair were not coded as waranty My wife a attorney ate this arguement alive. Long story long I am now driving a mazdaspeed 3 and Nissan is the proud owner of an oil consuming 35th anniverssary edition z.

ZeeForce

Seems like you are being short sold, I mean what can you get new, for 5k, you would be in the hole a big chunk of change. Another Z would set you back at least 30k, leaving you 25k to finance. Seems you should be able to get more. IMO.

ZeeForce

Good for you, congrats!
One of the early members (bofa) to this posts, also used the three OC tests as NNA attempts to repair, and he was the first to get a buy back through BBB and arbitration. Good for you. Great point for all of us that have a V2 or V1 replacement and not sure if we have enough attempts for repair. The OC tests can be used for attempts to repair.

Mid117

iTrader: (11)

well, I will try...but if I do trade for another car, I assure you it won't be a nissan/infiniti.

But as of now it's cheaper for me to keep it(unless NNA ****** buy it back), so that's my plan.

ZeeForce

Sorry to hear you have such a bad taste for the Z, I know it was not always this way. Damn OC issue.

So what's the current update on the engine, V1 replacement, right?
Are you willing to try a V2 when they give it to you?

ZeeForce

OK this is as good as it gets. I just downloaded the Factory Service Manual (66mb zipped).
Sadly though, the factory service manual (FSM) does not shed any light on the amount of oil on the hash mark “L” to “H”. Same as the owner’s manual. "If it's out of range, adjust it".

On the second attachment under #6 is an interesting find, the oil pressure (psi) at idle speed. At normal temperature the psi is 14. Some have thought if under 30 psi then there is a oil issue, this is not true. 14 psi is normal at idle.

ZeeForce

A couple more: the engine lubricating system, and the oil capacity specifications with oil pressure.

ZeeForce

FSM - Oil Replacement

The first two bullets at top of page.

(Excerpts from attachment)

The refill capacity depends on the engine oil temperature and drain time. Use these specifications for reference only.
Drain and refill - with oil filter = 4.7 qrts

Always use oil level gauge to determine the proper amount of engine oil in the engine.

Mid117

iTrader: (11)

No need for you to be sorry, it's not your fault.....thanks for the support though.

Well, at least the new motor(the V1) isn't burning any oil....changed the oil at a local shop, and they found no issues with the oil level.

I'd give the V2 a shot...but in 2-3 years I'm planning on building the motor for TT's anyways.

joe_blow_xbox

iTrader: (1)

Yep, I read this in the owners manual before. Big help, Nissan.

To me, the best way to determine this is
1. Wait for the car to be at L on the dipstick (it's going to happen sometime)
2. Put one quart oil in the car and wait some time for the oil to settle.
3. Verify where the measurement is on the stick. If it is H, then there are 1.0 quarts between L and H. If it is 1/3 below H, then there are 1.5 quarts between L and H. If it is 1/2 way between L and H, then there are 2.0 quarts between L and H.

That way we will know once and for all instead of speculating. Of course, if I do this, I will do this at the Nissan dealership so they see the car consumed oil.

Also, somebody could so something similar when changing oil. Put 3 quarts in and see if it is on the stick, then add 4th quart and read the stick again, then 5th quart and read the stick again. Calculate from there how many quarts between H and L.

Now I am having Nissan change my oil because they will have records of when it was changed, and how much it was low. The first time I went in for OC, they said my filter was "seeping" so it didn't count as an OC check. I have a painted garage floor and there was NO drops of oil on the floor.

BTW, I am checking my oil level in the morning on a coled engine for consistency.

ZeeForce, thanks for your efforts on this list.

MasterRacer

iTrader: (8)

Sorry I haven't kept up with this Thread but ............have you guys seen this


http://nissan350zoilconsumption.com/...isclaimer.html

06CPV35

^^^NICE FIND!!!
Wish there was one for G35's

To a couple posts above:
I always check cold and after sitting overnight. When I'm at low mark, 1qt has always brought it to the H mark for me with the almost 2yrs self monitoring I've done.

I don't trust verbally what Dealers say your oil level is as far as I can throw them.
My suggestion: Be physically present while they drain and measure oil, add oil, and/or top you off and physically show you are on the H reading; not over H.
I know for a fact I'd be 1/2qt over if they said I was 1.5qts low while on the L mark, but that's my VQ.

Read a G member started OC testing and fortunately for him, Dealer didn't mark/seal dip stick. He check his level much later on that day and it was 1/2qt+ above H mark. After 1000mi his dip stick reading would indicate less consumption that it actually would be. A little trick some Dealers do to hopefully deny you replacement...beware. And to think they seal/mark stick/drain plug to prevent dishonesty from Z/G owners draining, when they over add oil to miniumize OC consumption results Shame on those Dealers
Dealer trust issues...yup, I have them.

-ZeeForce-
You meant 5.0qts w/filter, not 4.7, right?