So A buddy and myself installed a Prolite flywheel and JimWolf clutch. When we first started it we could not get it in gear because the clutch would not disengage. After bleeding the clutch master cylinder for some time with a $250 snap on power bleeder, really not much change. We found SOME adjustment on the "plunger" and could get into gear but still not disengaging all the way. Anyone have this problem? Any ideas of what to do?
Thanks, Sean

 

What release bearing did you use?

 

If you mean throw out bearing....it was the Jim Wolf bearing. Looked just like the stock one in size and shape....
Thanks, Sean

 

Did you bleed it from the side of the transmission, there is a valve that you open on it. Pump the clutch pedal about 10-15 times then hold it down while someone under the car opens the bleeder valve.

 

I don't know of anywhere else than that slave cylinder (on the side of transmission that pushes the throw-out fork) that you can bleed it. So yes, used a power bleeder and 2 people.

 

If u used the correct parts and installed them correctly and it worked before it HAS to work ---Forget the 250.00 bleeder. If nothing else ,pump it slowly like 50 times, open the bleeder til fluid flows, repeat, let it sit over nite, repeat. A hydraulic system is self adjusting. If it doesnt work, u have bad hydraulic components.

 

i have this problem, what ever happened

 

The system has to work....it's designed to work. First of all I would go with a system that was mated.....JWT clutch JWT flywheel. Interchanging is cool for fine tuning and u know ur stuff.

Bleeding is gravity...Open the bleeder and let it flow. Tap the lines and cyls with whatever. Close the valve and prime the pedal and repeat------------Do what u have to do. With Pantaras you have to jack it up in the back

Point is---It has to work....Its hydraulics...Pressure in, Pressure out

 

i have the spec twin disc and it is a lot thicker than the oem stuff and was wondering is that comes into play at all? i had a hell of a time trying to get the slave rod back onto the fork because the fork was completely pressd against the openeing. i had to have someone pry on it with a pry bar while i tied bolting it up. how do i know if my pressure plate is bad or my slave isnt traveling far enough? this clutch is brand new

 

might need a different length sleeve for the bearing ^ Ask Spec, they would know

I know this is the case with the OS Giken clutches, from their super singles, to the triple and quad disk clutches for the VQ - all use a different length Nissan sleeve, and different throw out bearing vs stock

 

LMK how you like that superlight flywheel on your boosted Z, I'm looking into getting one. Found em for $345 shipped

 

ok so i had the wrong pivot ball, so now i have the correct one and i can go into gear but it doesnt feel right. the only way is by moving the adjustment rod almost all the way out which puts my engagement point really high. when i try to lower the engagement point the clutch doesnt completely disengage when depressed.

 

any new update. I just got a Spec Super Twin and my clutch wont disengage either. Cant get into reverse at all and have to force it into 1st!

argh!

 

That's a known issue with the Spec twin disk - you're not the first to have the problem. That's why I won't sell it. Not sure what the fix is, but I'd contact Spec asap

 

yeah, i called spec and they helped me out. i still dont have it 100% but close. you need to move all the adjustments all the way out and then slowly go in from there and keep trying. you can give me a call and i can try and walk you through it 702-349-2900

 

i got it to disengage just fine now between every gear, but going from neutral to 1st from a stop really takes some effort. its very notchy.

when i did the tranny i spilled about a quart of fluid and had replaced it with just the cheap stuff from autozone, since i couldnt find any redline etc locally.

I wonder if having 2/3 40k mile tranny fluid and 1/3 75/90w is contributing, or if its a mechanical issue???