Mobil 1 Oil Users - Motor oil discussion thread
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Originally Posted by Fluid1
And you've missed the threads when other people had the same issue with the Greddy kit on stock blocks? lawl
Did you have an aftermarket pully?
Did you have an aftermarket pully?
Last edited by thawk408; 03-05-2007 at 06:51 PM.
#82
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Originally Posted by thawk408
No I have not missed anything and no i didnt have the aftermarket pulley crap. I am not a forum newd like you may think. I have basiclly read every thead in the engine section ever sense i joined...I have not missed anything. Everything was done correct with a fuel return, utec, and tuned by Forged. I for the most part I like to think that I know what I am doing. My machine shop looked at my bearings and said "well that looks like an oiling problem". Some of my other bearings had above average wear on them. I told them I had used RP and they said they have never had good luck with RP.
I looked up some UOA on RP for you, couldnt find any on a Vq35. The ones I did find all showed pretty good results in wear, but several people mentioned how it thinned out to quickly for a premium oil. A prelude had very good results with it but he had to add 3quarts of makeup oil cause his engine was burning it off.
a comment on the prelude running RP
"The oil thinned from its starting value of 5w30 to a 5w20. It went from 64 down to 55.5! Their 5w20 has a value of 56. The flash point is also pretty low.
RP is very unimpressive for a "premium" synthetic oil. "
Last edited by derek173; 03-05-2007 at 07:03 PM.
#84
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Originally Posted by derek173
I posted your comments on the oil forum to see what they had to say about this since I really dont know.
<snip>
<snip>
To be honest, those replies sounded kinda ambiguous, and I'm not too sure what to make out of them
![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon14.gif)
I saw some virgin oil analysis at bobistheoilguy a while ago, and while I didn't understand 100% of the info, it seemed like motul 300V was really good stuff. I was thinking about using that for my next oil change... or I might go for the german castrol stuff (but like I said, I'd prefer 5W-30 or even 10W-30)
since it seems you have a good relationship with the forumites, maybe you could ask about the 300V? Any opinions? (If price is no object?)
Thanks again for this thread.
Last edited by Wired 24/7; 03-05-2007 at 07:47 PM.
#85
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Originally Posted by sunmind
Thank you for taking the time to provide the information about Mobil 1 ![thumbup2](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/thumbup2.gif)
I have used Redline on my high-revving hotrod, but it is hard to find.
Since the jury is out on the Rev-Up engine oil consumption issues, I am staying with the dino product for now.
Have been using Mobil 1 in my Range Rover, here in the hot climate. Will try and find the Euro Castrol. Not sure what grade to buy though... ideas anyone..?
![thumbup2](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/thumbup2.gif)
I have used Redline on my high-revving hotrod, but it is hard to find.
Since the jury is out on the Rev-Up engine oil consumption issues, I am staying with the dino product for now.
Have been using Mobil 1 in my Range Rover, here in the hot climate. Will try and find the Euro Castrol. Not sure what grade to buy though... ideas anyone..?
#86
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
To be honest, those replies sounded kinda ambiguous, and I'm not too sure what to make out of them ![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon14.gif)
I saw some virgin oil analysis at bobistheoilguy a while ago, and while I didn't understand 100% of the info, it seemed like motul 300V was really good stuff. I was thinking about using that for my next oil change... or I might go for the german castrol stuff (but like I said, I'd prefer 5W-30 or even 10W-30)
since it seems you have a good relationship with the forumites, maybe you could ask about the 300V? Any opinions? (If price is no object?)
Thanks again for this thread.
![](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon14.gif)
I saw some virgin oil analysis at bobistheoilguy a while ago, and while I didn't understand 100% of the info, it seemed like motul 300V was really good stuff. I was thinking about using that for my next oil change... or I might go for the german castrol stuff (but like I said, I'd prefer 5W-30 or even 10W-30)
since it seems you have a good relationship with the forumites, maybe you could ask about the 300V? Any opinions? (If price is no object?)
Thanks again for this thread.
"I don't have a ton of time to address all the points but the most important missed point is that synthetic 0W-30 may not even need any VII's (polymers). It is good to avoid VII's, but unless you know a little more about the oil in question you can't really base the decision on SAE viscosity spread alone. "
Last edited by derek173; 03-05-2007 at 08:03 PM.
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General opinion is Motul oil is very good, but a bit expensive here are some UOAs
![](http://www.rallystuff.com/images/s4_blackstone61500.gif)
![](http://www.image-hosting.net/images/digital/A4NCAR/UOA%20Motul%20300V%205W40%2011K%20Miles.jpg)
lol, i just noticed this thread was moved...any chance of making it a sticky in the main 350z forum?
![](http://www.rallystuff.com/images/s4_blackstone61500.gif)
![](http://www.image-hosting.net/images/digital/A4NCAR/UOA%20Motul%20300V%205W40%2011K%20Miles.jpg)
lol, i just noticed this thread was moved...any chance of making it a sticky in the main 350z forum?
Last edited by derek173; 03-05-2007 at 08:25 PM.
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It's funny, if you go to the Mobil 1 website, they have an animated 350Z running across the top of the page. I put Mobil 1 Extended Performance in my 287 motor, fired it up and it was knocking bad. I drained it all out, went and bought regular mobil 1 and the knocking went away. Either way, I'm going with the Castrol Syntec when I pull the car out of storage.
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There is no myth to using a really thin oil such as a 0W-30. The fact of the matter is that it is simply not recommended for aging engines. Obviously your engine will wear as you accumulate more miles and it tends to become more "loose" so to speak over a given amount of time. As a result, it may be more prone to leaking. In this case it will always be best to use an oil with a higher viscosity or one that is thicker to keep from penetrating potential leak spots within your engine.
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Originally Posted by zman1910
There is no myth to using a really thin oil such as a 0W-30. The fact of the matter is that it is simply not recommended for aging engines. Obviously your engine will wear as you accumulate more miles and it tends to become more "loose" so to speak over a given amount of time. As a result, it may be more prone to leaking. In this case it will always be best to use an oil with a higher viscosity or one that is thicker to keep from penetrating potential leak spots within your engine.
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excellent info derek, and thanks for sharing... i was just about to switch to mobil1 synthetic from dino pennzoil... am at 37k right now , used regular dino oil till now...
will stop at autozone to check for castrol syntec
will stop at autozone to check for castrol syntec
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Hmm...I'm running Royal Purple right now and about 3000 miles in to my oil change...Think Ill try this Castrol next go around...I was only running Mobile 1 previous to the RP and am glad i stopped when I did...Thanks a lot for the info.
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Originally Posted by thawk408
No I have not missed anything and no i didnt have the aftermarket pulley crap. I am not a forum newd like you may think. I have basiclly read every thead in the engine section ever sense i joined...I have not missed anything. Everything was done correct with a fuel return, utec, and tuned by Forged. I for the most part I like to think that I know what I am doing. My machine shop looked at my bearings and said "well that looks like an oiling problem". Some of my other bearings had above average wear on them. I told them I had used RP and they said they have never had good luck with RP.
Thawk....you are not the first one to mention problems with royal purple. I use to use RP, but I started to notice that the motor was trying harder as the mileage went on in each oil change. I stopped using RP and just figured it was better for a couple runs at the drag strip and not a good daily driven oil. My neighbor blew the motor in his truck just like you did. Royal purple paid to replace his motor. He showed me the invoices were RP paid GM for his new engine. I didn't realize I had such an ear or feeling for my motor in previous cars that I could tell when the oil was not doing so great. I guess you know your car if you eat, drink, and sh*t performance. I use M1 in the Z but that's going to change. lol. I've always used either Amsoil or Motul in my bikes. Guess I'll use em in my Z (or GC). Thanks again guys....good read.
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Originally Posted by derek173
Im guessing you have not read this thread. There are enough posts on here to prove ow-30 especially a synthetic is not too thin. German Castrol Syntec is thicker then most 5w-30 weights available. I have a friend running it in an Auidi A4 with 150k with no problem.
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The dead horse rises to get beat again!!!!
derek173, I think you should have checked your sources a little better before posting this here, and even better- just posted a link to the oil drop forum to discuss this there.
The cliff notes version is that nobody really knows what, if anything, M1 did to change their base stock. There is no proof that they have changed to a Group III base stock and no longer use a PAO. Some people believe Mobil did change the base stock, and cite their own tests as proof. Those that believe Mobil has changed seem to favor the theory that it is now a PAO, POE, AN, G3+ base stock. Most of the arguments are good ones, and this is still a good combination of base stocks, if it's true. Mobil has been unable, or unwilling, to confirm any changes one way or another in their base stock for M1. Their lack of any defense or comment seems to be the strongest case against them, although no manufacturer is obliged to disclose such information, and even CAS numbers are becoming proprietary and vanishing from bottles. There is no record or proof that has been found of any actual case involving M1 taking Castrol to court over the use of the term "Synthetic" for it's group III oils. It is possible a arbitrator handled the issue, if there ever was one between the two companies.
Again, this is a dead horse and if anyone really wants to look at the issues at hand then there is an entire site for it. A person can spend the next several weeks doing nothing but looking through post after post covering the suspected change over at the oil drop forum.
What this boils down to is, if you're curious as to how well an oil is going to perform, then do a test. It's cheap, easy, and unlike internet forums- is factual. Then you can make up your own mind.
I salute derek173 for posting his tests. I propose that to make this an actual 350Z oriented issue, that the stickie be used for VQ oil tests rather than personal opinions on what oil is best. Rather than a stickie that can easily become a means of arguing others into agreement with one's own personal choice of oil, a stickie with objective test results will allow users to more accurately decide for themselves which oil works best for their engine. If people really want to argue over conspiracy theories on oil type, what is the best oil, etc... then there is a great forum already in place that is better suited to this end, and a link to it wouldn't be a bad idea. Besides, this will save derek173 the hassle of cutting and pasting quotes between the two forums.
Finally, the german Castrol 0W-30 is even older news from many years ago, and it is true that it is a PAO Group IV base stock. However, it is not the end all of oils, and those who still want to use M1 are not buying crap oil by any means. Nor is Rotella, Penzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, or any other Group III+ oil if you like the price you pay for them. The best choice for VQ engines can be found through analysis, and hopefully we will have some more of these to share on this thread. Group V esthers.... Redline, Motul, and such... I defer you to the oil drop forum to do your own research and decide for yourselves.
Will
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru....php?Cat=0&C=2
derek173, I think you should have checked your sources a little better before posting this here, and even better- just posted a link to the oil drop forum to discuss this there.
The cliff notes version is that nobody really knows what, if anything, M1 did to change their base stock. There is no proof that they have changed to a Group III base stock and no longer use a PAO. Some people believe Mobil did change the base stock, and cite their own tests as proof. Those that believe Mobil has changed seem to favor the theory that it is now a PAO, POE, AN, G3+ base stock. Most of the arguments are good ones, and this is still a good combination of base stocks, if it's true. Mobil has been unable, or unwilling, to confirm any changes one way or another in their base stock for M1. Their lack of any defense or comment seems to be the strongest case against them, although no manufacturer is obliged to disclose such information, and even CAS numbers are becoming proprietary and vanishing from bottles. There is no record or proof that has been found of any actual case involving M1 taking Castrol to court over the use of the term "Synthetic" for it's group III oils. It is possible a arbitrator handled the issue, if there ever was one between the two companies.
Again, this is a dead horse and if anyone really wants to look at the issues at hand then there is an entire site for it. A person can spend the next several weeks doing nothing but looking through post after post covering the suspected change over at the oil drop forum.
What this boils down to is, if you're curious as to how well an oil is going to perform, then do a test. It's cheap, easy, and unlike internet forums- is factual. Then you can make up your own mind.
I salute derek173 for posting his tests. I propose that to make this an actual 350Z oriented issue, that the stickie be used for VQ oil tests rather than personal opinions on what oil is best. Rather than a stickie that can easily become a means of arguing others into agreement with one's own personal choice of oil, a stickie with objective test results will allow users to more accurately decide for themselves which oil works best for their engine. If people really want to argue over conspiracy theories on oil type, what is the best oil, etc... then there is a great forum already in place that is better suited to this end, and a link to it wouldn't be a bad idea. Besides, this will save derek173 the hassle of cutting and pasting quotes between the two forums.
Finally, the german Castrol 0W-30 is even older news from many years ago, and it is true that it is a PAO Group IV base stock. However, it is not the end all of oils, and those who still want to use M1 are not buying crap oil by any means. Nor is Rotella, Penzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, or any other Group III+ oil if you like the price you pay for them. The best choice for VQ engines can be found through analysis, and hopefully we will have some more of these to share on this thread. Group V esthers.... Redline, Motul, and such... I defer you to the oil drop forum to do your own research and decide for yourselves.
Will
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru....php?Cat=0&C=2