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Old 03-20-2007, 01:57 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by Toad's_Z
I use M1 and im glad i seen this thread...would you also recommend not using the mobil 1 oil filter. if not what recommendation for oil filter..also how easy is it to obtain some Amsoil, or royal purple...i haven't seen them in a regular auto store. thanks
If you had read the thread, you'd have seen that M1 filters are fine.
Old 03-20-2007, 03:35 PM
  #162  
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Walmart carrys Royal Purple now. Good oil but I would not use longer than 5-6k. Use Amsoil for extended drains with confidence. Amsoil also has esters in it like Motul but is not straight esters, it's a PAO/Ester mix which is the best for daily drivers in my opinion.
Old 03-20-2007, 03:49 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by Toad's_Z
I use M1 and im glad i seen this thread...would you also recommend not using the mobil 1 oil filter. if not what recommendation for oil filter..also how easy is it to obtain some Amsoil, or royal purple...i haven't seen them in a regular auto store. thanks
I just may go to the source, lol. Unless I can find it for less...
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/Se...x?CategoryID=9


ATM01 12-quarts for 85.80 or 1-quart for $7.15
ATM04 4-gallans for $110.80 or 1-quarts for $6.93

This doesn't include S&H+TX... but if you become a member, you can get it for less They offer a 6 month trial for $10 and a year for $20, it pays for itself if you buy $100 or more. Very easy to do... I've been avg. 20k a year I say buy oil for a friend or two and split the memb costs.


Zquicksilver

Last edited by Zquicksilver; 03-20-2007 at 05:01 PM.
Old 03-20-2007, 05:36 PM
  #164  
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What about the M1 extended performance synthetic oils?
Old 03-20-2007, 06:38 PM
  #165  
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^^^ still wondering the same thing
Old 03-20-2007, 07:13 PM
  #166  
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bump bump
Old 03-20-2007, 08:08 PM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by Zquicksilver
I just may go to the source, lol. Unless I can find it for less...
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/Se...x?CategoryID=9


ATM01 12-quarts for 85.80 or 1-quart for $7.15
ATM04 4-gallans for $110.80 or 1-quarts for $6.93

This doesn't include S&H+TX... but if you become a member, you can get it for less They offer a 6 month trial for $10 and a year for $20, it pays for itself if you buy $100 or more. Very easy to do... I've been avg. 20k a year I say buy oil for a friend or two and split the memb costs.


Zquicksilver
Just curious, how did you decide on the ATM instead of the ASL?
Old 03-20-2007, 08:10 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by Enron Exec
What about the M1 extended performance synthetic oils?
The base oils are the same in the EP but there are more additives.
Old 03-20-2007, 08:10 PM
  #169  
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Wow everyone is running scared because of a baseless claim that still has yet to be proven/disproven? I remember this exact same topic came up somewhere around 2001/2002 when I was on Honda Prelude boards. Same claim then that M1 changed to inferior oil...but everyone keeps saying "up until recently...great oil."
My Blackstone report showed better numbers on M1 after 7500 than the average VQ showed at 3,000 interval. I'll be sending in a sample at 10,000 fairly soon and will decide if I need to upgrade based on that.
Until someone puts forth any sort of proof I don't see much point for everyone to jump ship due to a random post on a website, but maybe I just missed the part where someone posted a factual basis for this thread.
Old 03-20-2007, 09:12 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by lightner22
Wow everyone is running scared because of a baseless claim that still has yet to be proven/disproven? I remember this exact same topic came up somewhere around 2001/2002 when I was on Honda Prelude boards. Same claim then that M1 changed to inferior oil...but everyone keeps saying "up until recently...great oil."
My Blackstone report showed better numbers on M1 after 7500 than the average VQ showed at 3,000 interval. I'll be sending in a sample at 10,000 fairly soon and will decide if I need to upgrade based on that.
Until someone puts forth any sort of proof I don't see much point for everyone to jump ship due to a random post on a website, but maybe I just missed the part where someone posted a factual basis for this thread.
Hey, if Mobil 1 works for you there is no reason to switch. It's still a good oil but Mobil 1 always took pride in being the only Group IV synthetic on the shelves and now all of a sudden they switch, if you are going to be paying synthetic group iv/v prices, you should be getting group iv/v oil!
Old 03-20-2007, 09:27 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by IP05G35
Hey, if Mobil 1 works for you there is no reason to switch. It's still a good oil but Mobil 1 always took pride in being the only Group IV synthetic on the shelves and now all of a sudden they switch, if you are going to be paying synthetic group iv/v prices, you should be getting group iv/v oil!
I think he's right, there is nothing concrete that M1 changed their formula. But as I said earlier, this is just going to become a "xxx brand is best because they use it on the space shuttle, it cures cancer, blah blah blah..." thread. No one really has any UOA's to back up their claims of what oil is better. We've seen a UOA on the new SuperSyn in a VQ, but where are the Amsoil comparison, or the Motul, Pennzoil Platinum, Royal Purple, Quaker Advanced, Syntec, etc... It would be just as easy for someone to say the Nismo CAI is the best intake and beats the JWT pop charger any day of the week because it says "Nismo" on the box and they're obviously the best. And then have no dyno sheets to back it up. Well.. where are the oil analysis results for half the oils mentioned so far in this thread? Hearsay seems to be more prevelant and accepted than actually doing research or fact finding. Again, it would be better if this thread focused more on people posting UOA results on the oil they prefer rather just stating opinions.
Will
Old 03-20-2007, 09:32 PM
  #172  
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so what is wrong with group 5 esthers such as the motul chrono?
Old 03-20-2007, 10:02 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by anotheraznguy
so what is wrong with group 5 esthers such as the motul chrono?
I think this would be a better question to post on the oildrop forum, or a search over there for a crapload of data and thoughts on Esthers.
My opinion is nothing is wrong with esthers for track and heavy use, but not for a daily commuter car. It might do great in the Z, but no one really knows without an analysis. The brand name alone, nor it being a Group V base stock, doesn't justify the higher cost in my mind. There have been several UOA's to show more accelerated wear on engines compared to PAO oils. The general thought is that some esthers don't do so well to protect the engine for cold starts, at least not as well as most PAO's. They seem to excel for track use and other hard conditions. However, I have not seen an analysis posted by anyone using Motul, Redline, Silkolene, etc.. in their VQ. Maybe the clearances in the VQ do well with an esther, maybe not. Maybe the pressure builds high enough when cold to work well with esthers, maybe not. I have not seen it do so well in other engines to justify the cost or hassle of not having any local supply. I just see people posting about how awesome it is with nothing to really back it up.
If you have a UOA of it though, by all means, please post it when you get the chance. I'd love to see how it compares to the M1 sheet posted earlier. Or any other oil analysis we can gather.
Will
Old 03-21-2007, 08:07 AM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by IP05G35
Hey, if Mobil 1 works for you there is no reason to switch. It's still a good oil but Mobil 1 always took pride in being the only Group IV synthetic on the shelves and now all of a sudden they switch, if you are going to be paying synthetic group iv/v prices, you should be getting group iv/v oil!
Show me where or when they switched? And please don't quote the OP's post saying they did because he has been asked a half dozen times for proof and keeps saying "go look for yourself." I'm just saying I remember this exact same thing coming up about 4 years ago saying it changed to group 3, but no proof was ever given....4 years later people are again making claims that it "just changed" to a group 3...meaning that for the past 4 years it has been a group 4 even though the internet in all its infinite wisdom has tried to tell me that it couldn't be.
I have no interest in trying to change people's minds or increasing my post count...I just want to see solid proof that what I'm using (and have had tested by labs) is no longer good oil. Someone yelling "the sky is falling" isn't enough for me.
Old 03-21-2007, 10:48 AM
  #175  
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I'll step up on an M1 and GC UAO. I have M1 in now, I forget the type but I have it written down at home, 5k change in 2k, maybe 3 weeks from now. I'll do a UAO and share the info. Then I will put in the GC, 5k later I'll do another UAO. Then just to be sure the M1 was flushed from the first time I'll do another GC UAO. I put a lot of miles on my car, 18k since September, I do 5k oil chages every 1.5 months. Honestly, Im sure both oils provide great protection.

I have a large spread sheet from a few years back that has MANY UAOs for Maximas with VQ30s as you guys know the bottom end of the VQ30 and VQ35 are just about the same except for the bore and stroke, the bearings, main and rod, are the exact same parts. The spreadsheet has many oil types, and some other cars and even ATF. I dont have a way to host it but would be glad to share it with some one who can, pm me your e-mail and I'll send it.
Old 03-21-2007, 02:49 PM
  #176  
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If everyone else is using an advanced Group III in their synthetic oils and getting away with it, why wouldn't Mobil-1? My contribution to this thread, my opinion, was I'm not paying for unknowns... its that simple. If I have to pay 63 cents more per quart for a synthetic that states it uses a Group IV in its base, I'll gladly pay

Zquicksilver
Old 03-21-2007, 03:09 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by MardiGrasMax
I'll step up on an M1 and GC UAO. I have M1 in now, I forget the type but I have it written down at home, 5k change in 2k, maybe 3 weeks from now. I'll do a UAO and share the info. Then I will put in the GC, 5k later I'll do another UAO. Then just to be sure the M1 was flushed from the first time I'll do another GC UAO. I put a lot of miles on my car, 18k since September, I do 5k oil chages every 1.5 months. Honestly, Im sure both oils provide great protection.

I have a large spread sheet from a few years back that has MANY UAOs for Maximas with VQ30s as you guys know the bottom end of the VQ30 and VQ35 are just about the same except for the bore and stroke, the bearings, main and rod, are the exact same parts. The spreadsheet has many oil types, and some other cars and even ATF. I dont have a way to host it but would be glad to share it with some one who can, pm me your e-mail and I'll send it.
That would be awesome. PM sent, please send me the spreadsheet and I'll see what I can do to get it posted.
I just drained my M1 and put in a new batch of 0W-40 SS Mobil 1. I'll send it off to Blackstone in 3k and post the results.
Will
Old 03-22-2007, 08:07 AM
  #178  
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^ you guys rock...

The results should be interesting!


Zquicksilver
Old 03-22-2007, 08:22 AM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by IP05G35
Just curious, how did you decide on the ATM instead of the ASL?
I saw this study and the comparison looked good...
http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-chang...g-competitors/

I would do ATM in the summer and ASL in the winter.


Zquicksilver
Old 03-22-2007, 11:10 PM
  #180  
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Big thanks goes to MardiGrasMax for the spreadsheet he sent me. There are about 30 VQ engine UOA's on it, with many different brands used. I'm thinking of taking all the VQ data and putting it in seperate tables by brand. Then posting the tables on here as jpg's. That's the best idea I've got, anyhow. But it's also one a.m. and I'm tired. Any better ideas before I start copying data? Let me know, otherwise I'll just get it done this weekend and post the results. I think people will be surprised with the data.
Will


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