Ultra is essentially PP with extra additives, you're not going to practically see a difference in the VQ.

Of side note here, i'm switching back to PYB next week when i change, something is allowing synth to burn more than i'd like.

 

I'll add in a few of my oil analysis. The two older tests on the far right I was using Castrol Edge 5w30 (german castrol) and the far left one was Mobil1 0w40 german spec. All of these using K&N filter. I am more than happy with Mobil1 0w40 with the great numbers I'm getting. Also considering I can get it at Walmart for ~$25 for 5qt makes me pretty happy as well.

 

Hmm, according to that, your Castrol Edge stuff really broke down in viscosity. I had a similar issue when i ran edge, very thin, too thin for this engine which seems to run best on conventional oil.

My Edge ended up burning hard through the exhaust when hot and on the overrun, PP runs ok, but Castrol GTX or PYB seem to run the best.

 

*returns carol edge I just bought and needed to change. .....



would a 5-40 be more suitable for me since I live in Socal and it's always hot? 0-40 seems too thin in my head

 

You don't need a 0w living in socal, i'd use a 5w or a 10w.

40 might be a good top end for the same reason. FYI, cars in England, where it's colder all year than socal, have 10w40 recommended where the same car over here would have 5w30.

 

That's a odd fact. I usually run 10-40 in all my cars but thought since it was newer I didn't need to but I keep reading 40 weight is best for our cars.


Anybody ever run Shell Rotella 10-40 full synthetic? Supposedly real good with heat break down since it's meant for diesels

 

Yeah i did run that for change or two, however there was some question over it's suitability for cats.
I also note that it basically performs like GTX or PYB. Both of which i do not suffer from a burning oil smell when hot.

As for modenr engines running 30w and even 20w, yes, even in England that's the case, but engines are built to *far* higher and tighter tolerances due to both more advanced manufacturing as well as the quest for better economy/emission regulations.

 

Thanks for answering questions! Appreciate your help

GTX is a Castrol no? What is PYB?

Today I'm going to return the 5-30 Edge I got and see if I can find the 5-40 at Walmart. The weight is usually harder to find

 

Went to walmart and swapped out the edge and got this. It was all Walmart had in that weight, and I didn't have my receipt (lost) so I couldn't return for cash back. But I run a full Motordyne exhuast and their test pipes so no cats to worry about. Do the pros in this thread approve of this as an oil? Call will be getting tracked pretty soon and its only driven 3 days out the week.


20150731_082628 by Malachi Rosales, on Flickr

 

Again, with your climate, i wouldn't worry about getting 5w, 10w is fine there.

That oil will be fine, i ran mine with no problems and various other people have had good success with strong sheer resistance of that oil.

GTX *is* Castrol, yes. PYB is Penzoil Yellow Bottle, basically Penzoils version of GTX.

I have tried various oils over the last few years, but i'm basically sticking with something a little less refined, my engine just starts burning off the 'thinner' synth oils when hot, edge was horrendous in mine as the UOA showed it had *really* thinned out.

Specs only call for a basic quality oil anyway, so no problems; that T6 is actually running a more basic base stock than most synths so it works well, just unneeded expense so i didn't get it again.

 

It only cost $20! And came in a 5-40 couldn't find a 10 weight either but maybe next time I'll try the 10-40 Rotella. I'm just worried about my engine on cold starts with thick oil but your more informed then me so I'm trusting you lol. Can't argue with a good oil for the price

 

That's a good price.

You'll have no problems with the oil when cold, you guys just don't get *cold* down there.

 

Good ones out there, but like I've said several times before Mobil 1 advanced full synth. is a top draw! Many F1/Indy car teams would agree. You can go to so called exotic makes, but you can't go wrong with this one. I'd recommend it for engine, trans, diff. also. *not trashing any other brand.

 

I've seen a few people have success/be happy with Mobil1, however, i've had really bad thinning and burning with it in several cars.
In a mustang i had, 5w30 to 5w30 comparison, i could hear a massively loud ticking from the engine after 1000 miles, no problems with any other oils. Similar issues when ran in an old accord engine too.

 

Funny bc I got my worst UOAs with M1 synthetic, probably havent used it for at least 7 years.

Whats even funnier is that my best UOAs were on Castrol Syntec/edge.

Perhaps the add pack was changed on M1 since then, but every engine is different, so unless youre actually going to UOA your own engine you might as well just buy whats on sale and just stick to your oil change intervals.

Using someone elses UOAs is like looking at someone elses bloodwork and making a diagnosis on yourself.

 

I agree with you that IMO Castrol has some of the best products out there and also that the "oil change intervals" should be utmost importance no matter which brand of lubes that one may choose.

 

I'm also a Castrol fan but after what I read in here I went with the Rotella. But had to add a quart of 5-30 M1 cause I just realized the Rotella is so cheap cause it's 4 quarts not five lol. Next time I'll buy two jugs

 

I know the subie owners love Rotella T6. Im currently running Valvoline Synpower but am switching over to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum based on previous UOA's. i will try to get Black stone labs to do one of the Valvoline and the Pennzoil.

you cannot go wrong with amsoil, redline or the high-end motul either.

 

It's really high priced for my car that is not 100% track

 

If you are really interested in different oils you should check out bobistheoilguy. Every oil has so many different variations a lot of people don't like Mobil1 and I used to not like them as well because I was using the 5w30 Mobil1 and had bad results. Then after research I found that the different weights are made differently which is specifically the reason I run Mobil1 0w40. Through oil analysis it shows that Mobil1 0w40 is one of the few oils that is actually a true full synthetic while many others are partially synthetic even though they are labeled "full synthetic" which is just a marketing term not a scientific term. Another important thing to realize is that a lot of times the advertised weight for an oil may not be what the oil ends up performing as after a bit of wear. In this specific situation the Mobil1 0w40 after some wear and break down the oil analysis has shown it performs more like a 5w30 which is the weight Nissan calls for on the 350z.

In my Z I've used Mobil1 5w30, Mobil1 0w40, "German Castrol" Edge 5w30, and Motul. Unfortunately I did not get oil analysis done with the Mobil1 5w30 or the Motul but I did not like how the Mobil1 5w30 made my engine sound and the Motul felt good but the price is just too much. I'm going to be sticking with Mobil1 0w40 for a while at a little under $25 for 5 quarts and the numbers I'm getting from oil analysis I don't think any non-exotic oil can compete.