tquill

iTrader: (15)

I'm looking to put together a huge collection of oil reports and create some nice comparisons. I've taken some of the reports from this thread already, but not all of them... because they're not all clear.

If anyone wants reports added, please email me directly at ts4465 AT gmail dot com. I'll make all the comparisons public when I get done with them.

Any car can be added (the more the better), but I need some specific info from each report in order to add them to the comparison:

Vehicle make, vehicle model, vehicle engine (ex. Nissan 350Z VQ35DE)

Is the vehicle FI? (yes, no)

oil brand (Castrol), oil type (GTX), oil weight (5W-30) (if type doesn't apply, put N/A)

Then all the other normal data from the oil reports. If you have a report with multiple data sets... label them all if you can so all of them can be added to the comparisons.

tquill

iTrader: (15)

After 5 UOAs, 2 for syntec 0w-30 and 3 for GTX 5w-30... I'm thinking GTX might be a bit better in my engine. Anyone else run both in your engine before?

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, interesting, got the UOA to show why?

I got the UOA on the PP, all good, running syntec (new version) at the mo and will send that off and try some edge in there.

tquill

iTrader: (15)

Don't get me wrong, they're very close... but if I'm going by what Resolute looks for (Lead, Chromium, and Copper), GTX is slightly better in 2 out of 3.

BTW, those numbers are normalized to a 3,000 mile oil change interval. Also, I didn't select it there... but the weight for GTX is 5W-30 and the weight for the Syntec is 0W-30.

tquill

iTrader: (15)

Also, here's a comparison of Green vs Gold Castrol Syntec 0W-30. There's only one sample of each from my car... so take it for what it's worth (not much). I'll have to double check, but I think I labeled the green/gold correctly.

Again, normalized to 3,000 miles.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Aww, i was with you all the way up to the different 'weights'

Unfortunately, one thing i have found out, is that not only do the differing 'weights' actually change the composition, esp. in 0w oils, but that the VQ likes a slightly higher viscosity.

Personally, i would try the same viscosities again to confirm. I assume by green and gold, you mean, old syntec and castrol edge?

I too use those 3 metals to check, and i moved from a good result on PP to castrol syntec (new formula - black bottle) to get a slightly thicker oil at running temp, so far so good on the butt, but will submit analysis when i change it soon.

350zx6r

I have always used Castrol Syntec 5w30 or 10w30 on my z, now with 100k miles I decided to try pennzoil platinum 10w30 and the engine is giving me a very loud ticking noise. I also went with a bigger oil filter this time around, the one that fits the titan. Any inside why?

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Take the big filter off, why would you fit a filter not designed for the engine?

Also, 10w isn't in the design either, should be 5w. Either way, you shouldn't be getting loud ticking from that, you could have a stuck lifter. Have you checked the level?

350zx6r

oil level is fine. im thinking about doing an early oil change this time. well I went with the big filter because everyone on the forum says it filters more etc... i wanted to give it a try

tquill

iTrader: (15)

I've used the big filter for most of my oil changes, and I haven't seen any issues.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I've been using titan filters since my first oil change. More surface area means less pressure drop especially towards the end of the change cycle which is a Good Thing (tm). It's not going to filter out more particles though.

ronn1

iTrader: (1)

I would like someone to tell me why a LARGER filter is better than a very efficient (Royal Purple) OEM size filter.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

It's about amount of media inside, bigger does not equal more though.

I just stick with the Bosch Premiums, the current versions for the last few years is a fine filter.

yellowspecv

hey hey you are not alone i got my 350z with 66k .. swich to castrol syntec 5w30 from a regular non syntec castrol 10w30..... and the engine is ticking like crazy from the passanger side i know is the fudging oil ..

350zx6r

well the belts were about to crack, i had changed a few years ago and it needed to be changed badly. i switched to castrol syntec 5w30 again and car is so smooth.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Why are people running 10w30?

You're going from a different grade oil as well as type, it's not a test or a confirmation of anything.
If the thicker when cold oil was keeping your faulty lifter quiet, then this is probably a good thing, you can get it fixed now

Doc_Z

so this thread hasn't been bumped in a while


I used to run Mobil 1 0w40 in my 04 DE as long as I owned it (80k miles). Served me great.


Now with the HR I'm running the same Mobil 1 0w40. So far so good. Switched to Castrol Edge 5w40 (Gold) for one oil change and I wasn't happy. The motor didn't seem as smooth or responsive to me. The only benefit was that it costs literally half the price of Mobil 1 here. Switched back to Mobil 1 0w40 now and motor seems happy again. I'm on 56k miles.

I do a lot of highway high speed driving for my daily commute, about 20% medium traffic and I generally race anything worthwhile nexst to me at the lights. 1/4 mile about 2 or 3 times a year. Environment is slightly dusty at times.

I like the results of the Castrol GTX 5w30 in the original post though. Is that really regular mineral GTX oil? Seems too good to be true. Anyone have a pcture of the exact GTX bottle in question? Anything specific to look out for on the can? Has anyone ever switched to the GTX from a good synthetic? Will it be a good idea given my driving style and conditions?

GTX always reminds me of old TV adds I used tol see when I was 6 years old. An uncle I know always used to joke GTX is only good for gate hinges, mailbox doors etc

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Interesting you should bump this now....

As the weather got warmer, my car started burning oil, i'm actually getting smoke, my last oil report with castrol syntec wasn't very good, increased metal particles showing ring wear.

I was late sending it off, and had already filled with castrol edge, which i didn't realise was a considerably thinner 5w30 oil than the syntec and penzoil plat.

I'm now 1100 miles into the new can of syntec and i'm halfway down the dipstick. It doesn't smoke when cold, nor when idling, and honestly, i know it's smoking more by the smell than seeing it.

That said, if i hang out the door and rev it, i see the smoke, but it's almost impossible to see most of the time, even when i can't see it, my wife confirmed it's there

I just threw some auto-rx in that i had lying around, and i'll probably top up with Castrol GTX soonish.

The previous owner changed the oil at 3000 (not 3600) and just used GTX, and honestly, that's pretty much what the manual states.

I'll see if it lasts to 3000 miles and change out for GTX and go from there.



As a footnote, i've heard around the 70k mileage, that the oil rings can go, regular rings are fine, but the oil rings are shot, the cats or high flow cats mask it mostly so people don't know.

exodus1337

Just bought a 2006 G35 with a Vortech Supercharger running 8psi.. Currently using 0w40 M1 .. Looking at the Amsoil analysis sheet it looks like amsoil and redline have amazing Noack readouts... Redline around 6% loss and Amsoil around 7% loss.. But Redline has bad Teost results.. it looked like over 30mg so I asked Redline about this and they said its because they use european oil chemistry and dont report to API regulation standards or something.. More or less using more protection int he oil.. But high Teost readings means higher oil depository tendencies? I am not sure if Redline has been proven to leave bad residue or anything like that after long term use, does anyone know? I really like the Noack readings Amsoil and Redline offer... I am really hard on my VQ and since its boosted I am looking for the best oil... Does anyone have any idea if I should use AMS or Redline... Or something else?


Redline

"Regarding the cold-crank, our product is designed to be on the high end. It satisfies the 5W, and that allows us to have better high temperature properties, such as lower volatility and better HTHS. Synthetics have much better pumpability than petroleums, so as long as the cold-crank is adequate for engine starting, the oil will pump very well.

Regarding the TEOST, it appears that their average was 1% above the limit. This limit is established for the low-phosphorous Resource-conserving SN. The non-resource conserving SN uses a different TEOST at a lower temperature which we would surely pass, and for those CF/SN not controlled to a 0.08% phosphorous there is no limit on the TEOST. The TEOST has a plus or minus 10% repeatability, so I am going to run both TEOST tests on the oil to see what results we get.

The TEOST is primarily designed to evaluate low-phosphorous oils. We use a European additive chemistry so that we can have very solid ACEA performance and they do not use the TEOST test, and they have plenty of turbochargers to protect. This is primarily a matter of higher ZDDP oils versus lower ZDDP oils."

Bigsyke

Just read the OP's post. Good info, but I have to say MoTDC is being phased out. I was a huge activist for Mos2, but both forms of Moly serve little - to no wear reduction in the real world. Red-line is getting away from MoTDC as well.

Also remove the Wix and PureOne extended oil filters from that list ASAP. I know the Wix 51356 filter base restricts the oil flow severely, almost positive about the PureOne as well. While I am against Mobil1, and for PureOne, the PureOne/Wix inlets are insufficient for the VQ engines. The Mobil1-110 is the only filter I would recommend as an oversized, due to the concaved base.