After reseaching and reading other peoples threads and etc.
It seems that you need a built block to go FI. However some people have gotten 400whp with stock internals, but i do not want to have my engine go boom. Do you guys think I can run anywhere for 350whp to 450whp safetly just by changing to low compression pistons and rods and some other parts?

 

if you are opeing the engine to swap to lower comp, just put in forged instead and you will be set.

 

So I can safely run around 400 whp with forged low comp piston and rods?

 

You getting a SC?

 

depends if the SC is safer than goin ST, ir TT the yes. As long if i can get around 350whp to around 400whp safetly.

 

Check this thread out:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/259047-muzzy-s-vortech-install-ton-of-pics-guide-for-future-fi-z-s.html

 

You did some "research" and came to that conclusion? So in all your "research" you didn't happen to notice that the vast majority of boosted Z/G's are on the stock motor?

 

I Read the thread but some other guy who had a stage 2 stillen SC blew his engine.

 

I understand that but I want to take extra precautions so i dont blow my engine

 

Any form of F.I. is risking blowing your motor. Nissan made the Z the safe and reliable. It should last over 200,000 miles. If you want to alter a stock component, you change the safety aspect of it and you take chances. If you dont got the $$$ to go F.I. and a backup plan if something goes wrong then just keep it stock.

 

Thanks so far for your help bro. There this other member that is doing a huge NA project and hes expecting to be runinng high 11's no problem. I personally would be damn happy with 12's.
Check it out--https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=255966

How much you think this would cost me do somewthing similiar to his build up?
Will it be much safer than goin FI?

 

Both a fully built FI or NA engine will be around 15-20K. This will include the hardware, labor, tuning, and accesories. This is just the motor cost so I hope u know you will need to upgrade the drivetrain, suspension, and brakes to balance the car. Whats the point of having a fast car if you can stop or turn it? Anyways the FI build will always offer more bang for the very expensive buck. BTW we have guys running 12s NA with bolt ons without cams. If u wanna run 12s, do some bolt ons, a 3.9FD, get some slicks and work on your driving and improve ur 60ft.

 

Find a good tuner, get the supporting mods done right and then go FI. This should get you to that power level safely. Also have some backup money so if anything happens your not SOL.

 

Most of the conservatively-tuned APS TT cars (stock engine) run 400RWHP/400RWTQ on 91 octane. That'll put you back 8-10k unless you do the install yourself.

If you just want a 12s Z on a budget, buy a used Z32TT and add $1000 (if it's not modded already).

 

it is all in the TUNE!

oh and thx for suggesting my post!

 

well said