Oil question
I wouldnt recommend it, but if you do:
Do the first oil change with full synthetic, run 500 miles drain and refill. Do it again for another 500 miles, drain and refill. The next set you should be good to run 5000miles. I just think there is quite of bit of gunk built up from that regular oil breaking down. Once the synthetic gets in there, it's going to flow more freely and break some of that gunk lose. You want to get it out of there, thats why you drain and refill. Could be costly, but you stand to RETAIN 5hp you've lost over the years with your regular oil.
Do the first oil change with full synthetic, run 500 miles drain and refill. Do it again for another 500 miles, drain and refill. The next set you should be good to run 5000miles. I just think there is quite of bit of gunk built up from that regular oil breaking down. Once the synthetic gets in there, it's going to flow more freely and break some of that gunk lose. You want to get it out of there, thats why you drain and refill. Could be costly, but you stand to RETAIN 5hp you've lost over the years with your regular oil.
If you mean synthetic, then yes, I like royal purple, amsoil, and mobil 1...but royal purple FTMFW for me
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by HondaKiller
I wouldnt recommend it, but if you do:
Do the first oil change with full synthetic, run 500 miles drain and refill. Do it again for another 500 miles, drain and refill. The next set you should be good to run 5000miles. I just think there is quite of bit of gunk built up from that regular oil breaking down. Once the synthetic gets in there, it's going to flow more freely and break some of that gunk lose. You want to get it out of there, thats why you drain and refill. Could be costly, but you stand to RETAIN 5hp you've lost over the years with your regular oil.
Do the first oil change with full synthetic, run 500 miles drain and refill. Do it again for another 500 miles, drain and refill. The next set you should be good to run 5000miles. I just think there is quite of bit of gunk built up from that regular oil breaking down. Once the synthetic gets in there, it's going to flow more freely and break some of that gunk lose. You want to get it out of there, thats why you drain and refill. Could be costly, but you stand to RETAIN 5hp you've lost over the years with your regular oil.
Do you just make stuff up and post? Honestly where did you get this info from? You can change between Dino and syn whenever you want, Dont listen to this guy he is mildly retarded
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Venice, CA
Originally Posted by 350ZREDLINE
yes its fine to switch. Best price/performance is probably pennzoil platinum. The only oil I would say to avoid is royal purple 5w30.
Originally Posted by derek173
Do you just make stuff up and post? Honestly where did you get this info from? You can change between Dino and syn whenever you want, Dont listen to this guy
A bit overkill......
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 670
Likes: 0
From: Savannah, GA
Originally Posted by 350ZREDLINE
yes its fine to switch. Best price/performance is probably pennzoil platinum. The only oil I would say to avoid is royal purple 5w30.
Peace!
Originally Posted by NightRida
Why? If you can't back up your comments then please stop posting negative things about valid products!
Peace!
Peace!
Let's look at the facts:
RP 5W-30 is the WORST performing oil tested to date from a VQ used oil analysis. It has incredibly low shear stability, and in 3k miles it becomes a solid 20wt oil with a cSt of 8.2 @ 100 deg C. This is normal for RP oils, since they are thin for their respective grades. It is not a good sign of it being a very robust oil, since it had the highest amount of lead wear per mileage of use than any other oil, and both the 10W-30 and 5W-30 oils had the highest levels of iron in the samples taken. The 10W-30 has three seperate oil change intervals tested, and all are high in iron wear, not to mention above average in every other key wear catagory, namely Aluminum, Chromium, and Copper. The 10W-30 is average to below average at best in it's results, and the 5W-30 is the worst so far.
I have seen RP do well in some other engines (not many), but the VQ35 is very hard on oil, and so far, Royal Purple is not worth the money. Castrol GTX has better UOA results than either of the RP oils tested in the VQ so far, and it's less than half the price. Do some research rather than falling for advertising, generic testing, and listening to the word of guys who haven't even had their oils tested, much less drive a VQ35 powered vehicle. Here's a great place to start:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/258663-vq-oil-analysis-and-info.html
Will
Edit: To the OP, you're fine to switch to synthetic at any time. If you are worried about sludge from old oil in the crankcase, then just search the net for a good price on a product called AutoRx. You could run this and then switch, but I think that's stupid. The synthetic will most likely clean any sludge build-up slowly over time, anyways. In fact, there is a well-respected guy on the oil drop server that has shown the inside of his cam cover getting cleaner after every use of M1 0W-40 in his Audi 1.8 turbo ever since switching to it.
Last edited by Resolute; Jul 5, 2007 at 10:00 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 670
Likes: 0
From: Savannah, GA
Originally Posted by Resolute
I would love to see you back up your own comments. How do you figure RP is any good in the VQ35?
Let's look at the facts:
RP 5W-30 is the WORST performing oil tested to date from a VQ used oil analysis. It has incredibly low shear stability, and in 3k miles it becomes a solid 20wt oil with a cSt of 8.2 @ 100 deg C. This is normal for RP oils, since they are thin for their respective grades. It is not a good sign of it being a very robust oil, since it had the highest amount of lead wear per mileage of use than any other oil, and both the 10W-30 and 5W-30 oils had the highest levels of iron in the samples taken. The 10W-30 has three seperate oil change intervals tested, and all are high in iron wear, not to mention above average in every other key wear catagory, namely Aluminum, Chromium, and Copper. The 10W-30 is average to below average at best in it's results, and the 5W-30 is the worst so far.
I have seen RP do well in some other engines (not many), but the VQ35 is very hard on oil, and so far, Royal Purple is not worth the money. Castrol GTX has better UOA results than either of the RP oils tested in the VQ so far, and it's less than half the price. Do some research rather than falling for advertising, generic testing, and listening to the word of guys who haven't even had their oils tested, much less drive a VQ35 powered vehicle. Here's a great place to start:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258663
Will
Edit: To the OP, you're fine to switch to synthetic at any time. If you are worried about sludge from old oil in the crankcase, then just search the net for a good price on a product called AutoRx. You could run this and then switch, but I think that's stupid. The synthetic will most likely clean any sludge build-up slowly over time, anyways. In fact, there is a well-respected guy on the oil drop server that has shown the inside of his cam cover getting cleaner after every use of M1 0W-40 in his Audi 1.8 turbo ever since switching to it.
Let's look at the facts:
RP 5W-30 is the WORST performing oil tested to date from a VQ used oil analysis. It has incredibly low shear stability, and in 3k miles it becomes a solid 20wt oil with a cSt of 8.2 @ 100 deg C. This is normal for RP oils, since they are thin for their respective grades. It is not a good sign of it being a very robust oil, since it had the highest amount of lead wear per mileage of use than any other oil, and both the 10W-30 and 5W-30 oils had the highest levels of iron in the samples taken. The 10W-30 has three seperate oil change intervals tested, and all are high in iron wear, not to mention above average in every other key wear catagory, namely Aluminum, Chromium, and Copper. The 10W-30 is average to below average at best in it's results, and the 5W-30 is the worst so far.
I have seen RP do well in some other engines (not many), but the VQ35 is very hard on oil, and so far, Royal Purple is not worth the money. Castrol GTX has better UOA results than either of the RP oils tested in the VQ so far, and it's less than half the price. Do some research rather than falling for advertising, generic testing, and listening to the word of guys who haven't even had their oils tested, much less drive a VQ35 powered vehicle. Here's a great place to start:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258663
Will
Edit: To the OP, you're fine to switch to synthetic at any time. If you are worried about sludge from old oil in the crankcase, then just search the net for a good price on a product called AutoRx. You could run this and then switch, but I think that's stupid. The synthetic will most likely clean any sludge build-up slowly over time, anyways. In fact, there is a well-respected guy on the oil drop server that has shown the inside of his cam cover getting cleaner after every use of M1 0W-40 in his Audi 1.8 turbo ever since switching to it.
Peace!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
