jetboy

Hey all,

I got an ACT clutch/flywheel combo and decided to do the swap myself with help from my brother.

While removing the stock equipment, we stripped out the heads on some of the flywheel's torx bolts ( should've used impact wrench instead of hand tools).

I managed to remove all the bolts, but when trying to install the new flywheel, ran into a wall: while torque-ing the bolts to service manual spec ( ~62 ft. lbs ), I had problems getting the bolts with the stripped heads to the right torque spec. In fact, I could verify that only 2 bolts are torqued to at least 60 ft. lbs--the heads on the rest were too rounded out and the bit on the torque wrench kept falling off the bolt at around 30 ft lbs. Oh crap.

I really don't feel comfortable putting it back together like this, without knowing for sure the bolts are torqued to spec. My cousin has done this sort of work (transmission/flywheel/clutch replacement) on 280Zs and Mustangs so I consulted him on this. He suggests not risking it and just getting new flywheel bolts. I think he's probably right, I'd hate to screw up my tranny, flywheel and crankshaft all because of some stupid bolts. Just got a new tranny too. Can I get another vote of confidence on this suggestion here??

Does anyone know where I can get replacement bolts or what the thread size/dimensions are? Is there a part number for these bolts in the service manual?? My cousin also told me to ask if it's possible to use hex bolts in place of the torx bolts, provided all the dimensions match. I'm guessing no, but I'd love to hear more opinions/user experience.

Also, I applied blue loctite to the bolt threads before attempting to install . . . does this mean I must clean the inside of the flywheel's threaded holes with acetone or something? Is this overkill? I thought I saw leftover red loctite on my exhaust bolts. Do I have to do the same to the threaded holes on the crankshaft???

BTW, is the clutch alignment tool required with the ACT clutch/flywheel combo? My combo didn't come with one.

Any help kindly appreciated.

Sincerely depressed,
jetboy

Escobar

iTrader: (27)

whats your email, I will send you what it is.

westpak

iTrader: (19)

yes get new bolts

no need for loctite, manual recommends just using oil

And yes you need the alignment tool or the clutch disk wont line up straight, you can probably eyeball it but the tool makes it easier specially when you go to put the pressure plate on and the clutch disk is moving around on you.

jetboy

Yeah dude, that's what I thought about the clutch alignment tool.

Anyone know why the ACT clutch kit does not come with the tool?

I thought Andy at mynismo/performance said its not needed, but I could be wrong. Andy, are you reading this?

As far as loctite goes, the service manual says not to use it, but the ACT manual recommends adding a thread-locker to the bolts for "performance applications". I believe guys with the JWT flywheel have done the same with loctite, but I don't know how necessary it is. After removing the stock flywheel, I did not notice any loctite on the bolts, to be honest.

At any rate, I think I'm stuck until I find where I can get replacement flywheel bolts. Think the dealership will sell them to me??

edit: PS, Escobar, I have sent you PM, thanks.

westpak

iTrader: (19)

I am pretty sure I got an alignment tool when I got my ACT clutch but that was 3 years ago.

The dealer can sell you the bolts it is more of a matter of if they have them in stock, I installed mine with oil as recommended that is more so the bolts get the proper torque without any friction from the threads.

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

as everyone else said, definately get some new bolts... make certain that you have the torx bit perfetly perpendicular to the bolt when loosening or tightening..as this is exactky how they became stripped in the first place!

I should have a few dozen here if you can't get them in from the dealer in a timely fshion, but chances are they will be able to get them for you in a day or two.

TODD

97supratt

iTrader: (61)

I agree, get new bolts and torque them down to specs. Also, I don't think my ACT kit came with a alignment tool either. I know my other ACT kits did for my previous vehicles but not for the Z, which is really weird.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

jetboy

Thanks all for the feedback and suggestions. I have secured flywheel bolts through a local dealership.

Thank you 350zDCalb for the offer.

I will keep you posted on how this goes.

Jason@Riverside

iTrader: (5)

always use new flywheel bolts...

no ifs ands or buts about it...

also, better to use hand tools with the aluminum block...

g356gear

iTrader: (12)

Exactly.....always.....always.....always use new bolts and high quality impact sockets.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

NO question, if you messed up the head, put new bolts in. Using a quality impact socket, and a big impact gun is actually the safest way to remove the bolts. Then trq to spec. A dab of blue loctite is fine, if you choose. We dont use it, and have never had one back out.

Nissan has these bolts if you need them, or call our shop, and we have plenty in stock.

jetboy

Hey all,

The install is complete and I took it for a 10 mi test drive tonight (12:37am and I'm too tired to go longer).

Clutch took a little getting used to and I stalled out a few times, but now it felt fine by the end of the ride.

Did notice some rattling while idle, though I've known this to be normal from what I've read in this forum.

However . . .

There's pronounced rattling through lower RPMs (1500-2500). It's usually gone by 4th gear. Is this part normal???? The drive isn't bad at all, and everything feels quit good actually. Just that the noise is a bit unsettling.

Again, thanks for everyone's advice. I'll be writing a tutorial based on the clutch/flywheel DIYs some other users posted here and which I also used as a guide for my install. I want to document the experience and share it with others who are curious about doing this.

westpak

iTrader: (19)

normal

Jason@Riverside

iTrader: (5)

lightened flywheel = stay above 2500 RPM.. and you will not get that sound... any time applying throttle below around 2500 RPM (Depending on flywheel) you will get excessive chatter... Is it bad... no... is it anoying? to some...

I prefer staying above 2500RPM no matter what just because there is more constant oil pressure etc anyway...