Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

what works for an FI car is actually the complete opposite of what generally works on an FI car.

No one to date (to my knowledge) has used the BC cam on an NA setup, so don't be so quick to assume it works well. We are a big seller of BC stuff too, but as the saying goes, everything in it's right place.

Rather than select a cam based on what you're reading on an internet forum (of which there might be 4 or 5 of us who have really gone full hog down the NA route), let your machinist do your selecting for you. That is exactly the route I went when building my car, by informing him what I was expecting out of the car, and where I wanted the powerband, idle, etc etc. My net result was a car that has a very very broad powerband that makes power up to a significantly increased redline, and has an extremely flat torque curve. The cams I selected (Tomei 268) are no longer offered, but they do make ones similar (the "264" setup). You will also want to leave the header choice to your machinist as well, as once again, it can either compliment the cam and let it do what it needs to, or totally kill the gains the cam can produce.

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

you can buy a built short block for 2600, then find a used SC for 3 and your are good to go. From what I have heard, the gains from cams are not worth there weight in gold? Seem as if the money is better spent on a SC or SINGLE Snail set up.

I would drop a Vortech in used and call it a day for about 3-3.5K

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

I don't think dropping a SC in the car will cost 3-3.5 maybe for the unit. Then install(if self then no more money) proper tune, supporting mods. EMS exhaust. Etc. Cuxtopher did a budget SC kit and it was like 6-7k? I might be wrong. But still going to cost. You will get more power with the same stock band... Its all up to the OP What he wants.

Also Adam has anyone done longtubes on a NA build. I think JT was going to? I see these Longtubes on ebizzle not sure what brand?

Chris

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

SC for 3.7K (although for this set up you would need the Stillen Hood)
http://intensepower.com/stsug35co6.html

I was refering to an out of the box solution. If the OP is simply wanting a "little more ummph" then a base SC should be more than he/she would ever need. I am all about running N/A for now. But Stillen SC fits my personality and needs. I just have not heard many "overly happy" customers with only doing head, cam work. I have the rev-up so maybe that is why. I have heard good things about the CAMs (JWT for non-rev) but nothing major with head work. Is that correct? I could be wrong and any information is appreciated.

A base Stillen SC, I feel that if you can read this board, change your own oil, you can take your time and install a SC yourself.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

where are built shortblocks $2600?

We'll be custom building a set of long tubes for kwame's car when the time comes (from Kooks, which is local to us)

a Vortech car even done on the cheap via used parts is an easy $6k-$7k by the time its said and done

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

650RWHP Short block
http://www.importpartspro.com/st1blon.html

Used Vortech kits can be had for $3-4k on average

Misc. other parts may add up to about $1k (gaskets, etc)

If you do your own wrenching, then your boosted and built for $7600 or less depending on the SC kit and misc cost total

Just food for thought

The OP isnt looking for a beast. I would SC a stock block with default tried and tested by the manufature settings all day.

But with my driving I blew up a stock motor...with minor bolt ons..lol.

I need built just to drive to work!

lol

theaxe1149

not the 05 6mt
or at least not all of them

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Right, and that price does not include the core charge, or the shipping, and at that point, a local machinist is the way to go...especially if there is a problem.

I wont even get into the aspect of no one ever using their motors on this site (that I've seen at least)

Anyway, good luck to the OP, just make sure you've got your ducks in a row before you start the project...it's a long and expensive road

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

If you did dig, you would find that this shop spawn off of a trusted site from the boards.

Not trying to but heads. The 27'ish cams sound great. (See thread below) If you dont want big power then use an out of the box FI solution.

I just hate how everytime, we hear about all this "supporting mod stuff". Not trying to start pizzzing match. but if you go with an out of the box kit, you dont need, fuel return, tripple clutches, beefy axles, bigger injectors etc.

IMO I trust JWT, Stillen, HKS, Greddy, etc because they have tested longer and harder than any of us. Even with that said, we cant compare to the 50 years of data we have from the Chevy 350 blocks! Not to mention the financial backing of those shops R&D departments. Tuners make money on tunning so hence..."you need supporting mods..plug" and I would charge someone at least 100 an hour to work on their PC. (my job) so why not pay big money for tuning...its fair, but not necessary in all circumstances and goals.

I agree with the supporting mods concept when going above the manufactures tested product, but if you dont need or want that much power...then no. The out of the box kits are based on factory cars...stock headers/exhaust/no spacers or plenums or HF Cats/test pipes...stock! They do, however, say if you want more buy our Stillen exhuast.headers, with this mod it made XRWHP...(supporting mods plug ....but not needed.... bla bla bla..)

use the out of the box, set up, install it yourself, if you screw up, then go pay someone who knows more than you. Other than not, I leave the supporting mods on the shelf.

If you change anything, be prepared to change at least double to compensate.

I just want this forum/replies/people to truely care about people and their car needs. Not just trying to get the fast buck (not saying Z1 is doing that, or anyone in particular) or forcing their opinion down someones throat. I just dont see any of use (self included sometimes) really listening to the OP's of threads. They guy wants cams...if he spend 19K doing so, who cares its their money, if that is what they want, let'em rip!

Bottom line, screw all of us and our two cent opinions...do your own thing!

great thread that will answer all your questions. It has videos, dyno results and some base hinted totall cost of the build. https://my350z.com/forum/mid-atlantic/308073-camshafts.html

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

SC, ST, and TT will always perform more effeciently and be more reliable as a result of 'supporting mods'. Sorry dude. When you start modding your car, it turns into a domino effect. One upgrade necessitates another, which necessitates another... (Within reason) - Otherwise things start failing sooner. These things don't work independently of one another, unfortunately. You gotta pay if ya wanna play~ Or be happy with a stock car.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Just so there are no misunderstandings, I don't much care if he gets stuff from us or not. I happen to have alot of experience in this exact arena, with these exact questions, on this exact motor, and as such, feel I'm in a better position than most to make an educated recommendation and not just read off a website or recommend what I "think" is cool. What I don't like seeing is someone going down a path they are not fully prepared for, or have not been fully versed on. 272s on an otherwise stock motor is one of those "wouldn't do it if it were my money" type of things. You can differ in your thinkings if you like, that is what life is about. The fact of the matter, having been around this platform for a long time, and doing my own build (which is not "nuts" by any means, but has certainly held its own), is that the details are what makes or breaks the setup and the experience as a whole. Being prepared for any inevitability is something that cannot be stressed enough.

I am no dissuading anyone from doing whatever they want. But I've done more than just think about doing the stuff to my own car, I've done it, and as such, know what works, what doesn't, and what is needed for x part to work as intended in the car. Ultimately what the person decides to do with what I've posted is totally up to them, but I stand by it 110%.

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

Hell if your gonna spend that much for a Stillen SC then be my guest. I bet a NA making 279 with a 7600 rpm making power will be a 279 hp car... And I wouldn't built my motor for stillen sc kit

It real easy to look at prices and think thats all that is needed. It will always be more than just putting things in a shopping cart.

Chris

Adam let me know how the headers go. Do you think you will put some on your car?

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

Yeah dont take what I said, as coming at you or your shop. Thats not at all what I am about. I have read about your build. I have been part of many blown up stockers here on the east coast too. You have you shizzil in order. 300RWHP N/A is my goal with my G. I hit 286on a dyno dynmics, but come to find out the engine temps (prob touched something) were way high. (free rerun soon). I though I was closer to my goal than originally imagined...:-( I take my time and choose extrememly carefully in what I buy for my car. 50K miles and still N/A.

Its just that there is a such thing as out of the box kits, just most of us are too impatient to wait or too dumb and forget that 9psi will kill our motors. All MOTOR FTMFW!

Its all good, again, not an attack at you...I did include myself in my previous comments. I would go with the 280 cams, only because I rarely go over 100mph with my AutoX, drift mobile...I dont need or care for top end power.

page04Z

iTrader: (1)

Ok for the argument now, I am not looking to go boosted yet. I don't want to sacrifice any reliability for power. Now, you may say its reliable etc... but problems happen and I do not want problems. I do not want the problem of FI'ing an NA car. I have tried this before, I do not want to do it again. If I wanted a boosted car I would have kept my subaru.

Simply put, going FI is too much money for me to dish out right now. I have way more important things than having a fast car, I just bought the car and don't want the down time on it, I don't want the problems with going FI, and I definitely don't want something going wrong like my motor blowing.

I'm just looking to spend less than $5k this winter on the car. This would include: 4.08 gears. Utec. Clutch and lightened flywheel. Exhaust. Minor head upgrade.

Looking for 280-300whp...... for now.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

given your above, I'd start with:

1. gears
2. exhaust
3. utec
4. flywheel

from there, see where you're at, and decide if you need the head work and cams. I originally planned on the same thing...a head build with a stock motor. Even went so far as to have the heads done, ready to install. The more I spoke about it with my machinist, the more he convinced me ultimately it was an excersice in futility, and that to take advantage of his head work, the built block would be the way to go. I now am not worried about the reliability (sure its there in the back of my head but I use my car now just as I did pre motor build)

ACEMAN

iTrader: (29)

I agree 100% with what you have said Z1.

Im at the point now where i am looking at heads and cams... I have done everything else to my car and heads and cams seem like the next step for me. Still researching cams and who i want to port my heads.

Thanks for taking the time to share your experience Z1 performance.

Later
Todd

page04Z

iTrader: (1)

Yes thank you Z1, and thanks to everybody else for their input.

ssnake86

Z1 I got a question for you regarding cams. I'm not looking at rebuilding any part of my engine as of right now. Getting some Crawford headers installed and tuned next week. In the future I might think about doing cams. With my current set up(mods in sig) and the Crawford headers would the GTM cams be a good one to go with? Or would the Tomei 264 cams be a better choice?

ssnake86

The 05 6mt are non revups. The only rev up ones in 05 are 35th anniversary editions.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Sorry I can't comment on the GTM cams as I have not had a chanc to play with a set. The NISMO R tune cams or Tomei 264 would be a nice setup for a stock bottom end though - will give good mid range gains.