View Poll Results: What is the Lightest Aftermarket Flywheel?
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Lightest Aftermarket Flywheel
#41
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The tilton is definately an extreme clutch and flywheel set up. I only recomend it for DD if you are patient and dont mind having to work a bit. The gains, sound, and rev speed are AMAZING! But you sacrafice daily drivability and if you never learn how to drive it, clutch life. After owning it, and craving it again, its one of those things that you hate 10% of the time and love 90% of the time. After all its all about what your going to use the car for.
#42
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I had the tilton that was extremely difficult and it can be tamed but patience is the key. It was by far the BEST mod I ever had though (and I had the APS TT installed after I got rid of the tilton) the car rev'd like no other.. the problem is launching and yes it is hard as hell to do.
The tilton can be bought from Titan Motorsports but its expensive.. expect to pay about $1800 for it.
The tilton can be bought from Titan Motorsports but its expensive.. expect to pay about $1800 for it.
#43
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Originally Posted by Gthang
u do lose torque at the wheels. you dont have as much inertia, as u stated.
i love my jwt setup..but i wouldnt go any lighter. a heavier rotating mass has more torque on it, inertia..
i love my jwt setup..but i wouldnt go any lighter. a heavier rotating mass has more torque on it, inertia..
The flywheel doesn't produce torque - it stores inertia by taking it from the engine (so you have less torque) - the instant you let the clutch out, the stored inertia helps propel the car forward, but it is still creating a parasitic loss on the engine's ability to transfer torque to the rear wheels (it has an extra load to spin up).
Adding driveline restriction or weight doesn't give you more torque or power - it makes it easier to drive and transfers 90% (just an example) of the torque more effectively on initial clutch engagement. You never have the opportunity to make that 10% back. A great driver can get 100% theoretically through throttle and clutch slipping action.
After you're already moving (road course or street) it's usually always better to have a really lightweight flywheel.
Driveability: worse. Power/torque delivery to rear wheels: much better.
#44
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BTW, great thread to include price vs. weight and material - I'm going to try the lightest solid flywheel I can find for $450 or less.
Traditionally, I haven't been concerned with drivability at all, so I think I'll be able to handle it. Plus, it will be a good way to "cheat" a little to help break 300rwhp N/A.
Traditionally, I haven't been concerned with drivability at all, so I think I'll be able to handle it. Plus, it will be a good way to "cheat" a little to help break 300rwhp N/A.
#45
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^^^ huh. if someone has mislead you into thinking that you will make more or less HP thats measurable on the dyno, you've been mistaken. once a clutch grabs, its direct drive. if your clutch is slipping now, then ya you'll make more power, but you wont be slipping anymore.
with those light clutches, theres no "slipping it". its on or off. sit on I40 for 5 mins in a traffic jam and i guarantee you'll want to throw you car in the ditch.
i'd suggest just goin with the JWT setup.
with those light clutches, theres no "slipping it". its on or off. sit on I40 for 5 mins in a traffic jam and i guarantee you'll want to throw you car in the ditch.
i'd suggest just goin with the JWT setup.
#46
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Originally Posted by XenoJC
ACT XACT Prolite $379 - N/A - 13.2lbs
JWT - $389 - Aluminum - 14.3lbs
NISMO - $540 - 4140 Billet Steel - 23lbs
RPS CYN-R-G - $460 - Segmented Billet Aluminum - 18lbs
Stillen - $599 - Billet Aluminum - 14.7lbs
Unorthodox Racing - $525 - 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum - 13lbs
Tilton - $699 - 4140 Billet Steel - 8lbs
JWT - $389 - Aluminum - 14.3lbs
NISMO - $540 - 4140 Billet Steel - 23lbs
RPS CYN-R-G - $460 - Segmented Billet Aluminum - 18lbs
Stillen - $599 - Billet Aluminum - 14.7lbs
Unorthodox Racing - $525 - 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum - 13lbs
Tilton - $699 - 4140 Billet Steel - 8lbs
The ACT Prolite is CHROMOLY.
#48
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
^^^ huh. if someone has mislead you into thinking that you will make more or less HP thats measurable on the dyno, you've been mistaken. once a clutch grabs, its direct drive. if your clutch is slipping now, then ya you'll make more power, but you wont be slipping anymore.
with those light clutches, theres no "slipping it". its on or off. sit on I40 for 5 mins in a traffic jam and i guarantee you'll want to throw you car in the ditch.
i'd suggest just goin with the JWT setup.
with those light clutches, theres no "slipping it". its on or off. sit on I40 for 5 mins in a traffic jam and i guarantee you'll want to throw you car in the ditch.
i'd suggest just goin with the JWT setup.
Same principle as hopping on the dyno with factory 17" rims vs. chrome 20"s: you'll make measurably less power with the 20"s on the dyno due to the inertia of a heavier wheel, with most of the weight focused around the outside.
I'm thinking about counteracting poor drivability of a really lightweight flywheel with 4.08 gears as well (for going from a stop). An automatic trans. Jeep Cherokee is my DD anyways.
After a second look, it seems as if the ACT flywheel (13.2#) has less rotating inertia than some of the other flywheels that visibly have more material around the edge or outside gear. Just a guess based on observation though.
#49
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Yep, it will show more rear wheel horsepower on the dyno, as well as reach and follow through the powerband quicker.
On a Z06 Vette: +9 rwhp and +8 ft-lbs. Gains *may* be similar on the G35 because a Z06 probably already has a somewhat light flywheel paired with a high-torque V8 and the 350z or G35 has a relatively heavy one from the factory with a low-torque V6.
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0407vet...ion/index.html
On a Z06 Vette: +9 rwhp and +8 ft-lbs. Gains *may* be similar on the G35 because a Z06 probably already has a somewhat light flywheel paired with a high-torque V8 and the 350z or G35 has a relatively heavy one from the factory with a low-torque V6.
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0407vet...ion/index.html
#53
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Originally Posted by robertsowka
lighter is not always better...
stock flywheels act as a damper as well, absorbing the engine's vibrations. . .
#58
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Originally Posted by aceman
I have the JUN flywheel.. I beleive it is 14lbs. Been using this flywheel for around 4 years with out any problems... There is alittle rattle but nothing that bothers me. Back when i bought the flywheel they were $400.
Later
Todd
Later
Todd
can anyone find me one for this price?
cheers
dp2
#59
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Originally Posted by dome P 2
where can i find a JUN fw for $400?
can anyone find me one for this price?
cheers
dp2
can anyone find me one for this price?
cheers
dp2
#60
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
we can easily arrange one for you via air freight from Japan - ends up at around $600 shipped (takes about a week to arrive to you if JUN has)
thnks but thats out of my budget...