View Poll Results: What is the Lightest Aftermarket Flywheel?
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Lightest Aftermarket Flywheel
10-20-2007, 12:36 PM
#1
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Lightest Aftermarket Flywheel
What's the lightest flywheel out in the market for our Z with the enough performance that will hold up 400+ tq.?
If you own one right now or used to have one, please share your experiences and thoughts as in performance, drive quality, price, life, etc.
If you own one right now or used to have one, please share your experiences and thoughts as in performance, drive quality, price, life, etc.
Last edited by XenoJC; 10-20-2007 at 03:46 PM.
10-20-2007, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rbfd
Tilton by far, 8lb flywheel, 8lb clutch, saves 30ish lbs over stock rotating assembly, makes your car rev like a carrera GT! I love it in my 1st Z, a bit taxing to daily drive though and does rattle a bit.
10-20-2007, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Motormouth
just wanted to say that you can easily find details and specifications on any number of vendor, or the companies websites.
do not take what is opinion or someone's memory of what the lightest is. look for the data yourself.
but yes, Tilton #1 lightest...
do not take what is opinion or someone's memory of what the lightest is. look for the data yourself.
but yes, Tilton #1 lightest...
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10-20-2007, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rbfd
Tilton by far, 8lb flywheel, 8lb clutch, saves 30ish lbs over stock rotating assembly, makes your car rev like a carrera GT! I love it in my 1st Z, a bit taxing to daily drive though and does rattle a bit.
10-20-2007, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rbfd
Tilton is a combo designed for NA cars used in Road Race aplications. It is a very solid clutch and flywheel combo and if you can handle the drivability is an AMAZING bang for the buck mod!
So it might not be a good choice for FI?
10-20-2007, 03:21 PM
#10
god I'm glad I'm not driving with my tilton clutch anymore. I look back on it and think I was stupid to think it was perfectly fine
I had the "street" version that would hold up to 300 lbs tq and was supposively much easier than the race version that would hold more torque (i think it was like 450tq?)
I had the "street" version that would hold up to 300 lbs tq and was supposively much easier than the race version that would hold more torque (i think it was like 450tq?)
10-20-2007, 05:11 PM
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ACT XACT Prolite $379 - N/A - 13.2lbs
JWT - $389 - Aluminum - 14.3lbs
NISMO - $540 - 4140 Billet Steel - 23lbs
RPS CYN-R-G - $460 - Segmented Billet Aluminum - 18lbs
Stillen - $599 - Billet Aluminum - 14.7lbs
Unorthodox Racing - $525 - 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum - 13lbs
Tilton - $699 - 4140 Billet Steel - 8lbs
JWT - $389 - Aluminum - 14.3lbs
NISMO - $540 - 4140 Billet Steel - 23lbs
RPS CYN-R-G - $460 - Segmented Billet Aluminum - 18lbs
Stillen - $599 - Billet Aluminum - 14.7lbs
Unorthodox Racing - $525 - 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum - 13lbs
Tilton - $699 - 4140 Billet Steel - 8lbs
10-21-2007, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dmroberson
Noob question... what's wrong with using a tilton in your dd?
The car revs SUPER fast, and makes rev matching/downshifting much easier, but because of the lost weight and momentum the engine is used to, when the car drops to idle it typically stalls.
I'm assuming without a tune increasing your idle to like 1500 rpm's, the car will continuously stall at red lights, or putting the car into neutral
10-21-2007, 09:45 AM
#18
Originally Posted by page04Z
Too light for reliability. Not enough inertia when you are coming to a stop/putting the car in neutral/anything that involves the car dropping back to idle.
The car revs SUPER fast, and makes rev matching/downshifting much easier, but because of the lost weight and momentum the engine is used to, when the car drops to idle it typically stalls.
I'm assuming without a tune increasing your idle to like 1500 rpm's, the car will continuously stall at red lights, or putting the car into neutral
The car revs SUPER fast, and makes rev matching/downshifting much easier, but because of the lost weight and momentum the engine is used to, when the car drops to idle it typically stalls.
I'm assuming without a tune increasing your idle to like 1500 rpm's, the car will continuously stall at red lights, or putting the car into neutral
Last edited by dmroberson; 10-21-2007 at 10:02 AM.
